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Tesla door handle failure - pivot gear (anyone have one I can buy?)
- Thread starter diaretical
- Start date
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- Model S
EVTuning
Former Vendor
They were sent first class mail so there wouldn’t be any tracking information. There have been several issues with USPS losing packages to start 2019. If it doesn’t arrive by Monday I will send another.
EVTuning
Former Vendor
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
This past week my front passenger door stopped extending. Reading the posts in this thread, I listened to the door as I locked and unlocked. Each time, I hear the motor running continuously but of course no movement of the handle. This seems to be an indication of paddle gear (1042845-00-B) failure. I'm going to try to get a replacement before I take the door apart...seems like a reasonable risk as the part is so inexpensive. Hopefully I will find some good weather this weekend to work on it.
Why aren’t people just calling Tesla to fix or replace the door handle? Their mobile tech replaced the whole mechanism on my driver’s door (original owner of 2013 P85) about a week ago for no charge. Sometimes the old door handle extended but would not open the door. Other times the old handle would not extend. Still other times the old handle operated normally. Thus the mobile technician retrofitted the whole mechanism with their updated unit that no longer uses micro switches and has an externally mounted control module.
Probably because they are out of warranty...
My car is a 2013 (original owner) and the whole driver’s door handle assembly was recently replaced under “Goodwill”. I’ve had all the handle assemblies replaced over the years for no charge.
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
I don’t know when they started doing that. All I know is I got the updated handle installed on my driver’s door a few weeks ago. The tech said it uses a hall sensor instead of the micro switches and it has a redesigned pivot gear. Once installed, the tech connected his laptop to the car and the handle started extending and retracting several times to calibrate it’s operation. That process took maybe 30 seconds.
EVTuning
Former Vendor
The new handles started with cars that got AP Hardware 2.5 roughly. There is hybrid version out there now that uses the newer hall sensor and module but it uses the older style door handle frame so it can be retrofitted into older car doors. (newer doors have different mounting studs and the newer style handles bolt up differently)
It is up to the individual service center whether or not they're going to provide the replacement under goodwill or not when out of warranty. You're basically at the mercy of the service advisor/manager as to whether or not they're going to do it for you.
The newer design still has it's flaws. The hall sensors fall apart, their updated paddle gears still break, and the new separate modules burn out because they're not weatherproof.
We've sold over 2k paddle gears and complete rebuild kits. Not one person has come back to us saying that their handle has failed since installing our revised parts. We have the original couple of cars we prototyped these parts on running the original revised parts for 2+ years now with no issues or failures. If you're in warranty I 100% agree you should go back and get it repaired/replaced.
My time is worth a lot to me. I’m going to depend on EVTuning as I replace each door handle gear/wiring harness over the next few years as the stock ones fail.
I’m guaranteed to be out of warranty for all future door handle replacements.
I’m guaranteed to be out of warranty for all future door handle replacements.
Hello, can you please send me CAD data to me?
Im cant to see all numbers on picture
My email: [email protected]
EVTuning
Former Vendor
I have Paddle Gears readily available machined out of stainless steel for $70.00 shipped anywhere in the US.
I will hope for the best, but carbon reinforced filaments have tensile strengths in the 4 to 9 ksi range (imperial units), while stainless steel powder metallurgy parts are in the 40 ksi range and machined/wrought stainless above that.
You would need to increase the cross section of the thin arc of the pivot by at least four times to have a chance of matching the problematic part
You would need to increase the cross section of the thin arc of the pivot by at least four times to have a chance of matching the problematic part
Carbon filament is like wood filament: It's purely cosmetic and adds no strength - it probably weakens the underlying PLA in fact. If using filament try something like PET, or mail order in steel. The new Tesla unit is like $1 and stronger than the old one too, printed plastic isn't going to be better or all that much cheaper.
robby
Member
I wouldn't design a plastic part to try to make it stronger; I'd use plastic to give it some elasticity, i.e. have it absorb the stress and return to its original shape instead of snapping. The melting point of PLA is much too low -- it will be reduced to mush on a hot summer day. But an ABS or high-temp PETG gear, transitioning to Ninjaflex where the pivot rod passes through might do the trick.
Does anybody have the STL and access to a dual-extruder printer? I'd be willing to take a pass at revising it if so. I have a Taz6 and could buy the FlexyDually head for it, but I'd rather not spend that kind of money until I know we have something that works.
Does anybody have the STL and access to a dual-extruder printer? I'd be willing to take a pass at revising it if so. I have a Taz6 and could buy the FlexyDually head for it, but I'd rather not spend that kind of money until I know we have something that works.
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