Tesla Model 3 Down: Won't Power Up, and is Inaccessible

[navguy12]

Thanks Glade_EV, if the manual is correct leaving the Model 3 with a 100% charge and the energy saving mode ON, would keep the battery safe for over two years. I realize temperature may play a role but I think 5 months would be safe.

IMHO, any temp below 12C and the battery starts to use juice to keep itself somewhat warm.......and based on You You's drive around North America last month, in temps below -15C, the time to drain the battery pack may be much shorter than being anticipated by the Model 3 owners manual comments.

 

[Reciprocity]

What firmware were you on at the time? I think about the only way to lose that much that quickly is for the HVAC to stay on the whole time.

I've read a couple other threads suggesting the reason the new 2018 firmware got pulled was HVAC activation glitches (but I don't know that for a fact.)

Maybe.. that's the only thing that makes sense.. 18.4.1. typically only lost 5 miles a day in cold weather and 1-2 in less then freezing weather.

 

[NewTMSMan]

If you read more of the first page or two, you will see that this (the bricked comment) was discussed and clarified.

So I am guessing sarcasm doesn't translate well on the internet, LOL

 

[arnis]

IMHO, any temp below 12C and the battery starts to use juice to keep itself somewhat warm

No. Definitely not. Li-ion battery freezes* at around -25*C.
EV's usually start to waste juice on battery heating while parked at around -15*C.

*becomes hardly usable.

Bricking - updating software with bad result that ruins device (phone/module/smartwatch) irreversibly (not possible to update software back to previous state).
Discharged battery - device does not switch on nominally due to battery not supplying enough power. For example a phone that shows discharged battery animation and doesn't switch on. In case of electric car, discharged traction battery and not discharged auxiliary battery will give similar result.
Dead battery - Specific state of discharged battery. Device does not do anything. Can't even report discharged battery.
Over-discharged battery - battery is dead but can, sometimes accept charge. Though permanent damage has been done and regular charging method is not recommended.
Under-charged battery - battery is in suboptimal state of charge that is degrading it. Though battery is functional. Lead acid battery - 60%, Li-ion battery - 10-20%.
Shorted battery - Battery has shorted so it does not accept charge any more or self-discharges fast after charging stops.
Degraded battery - Lost at least 20% of original capacity. Battery is functional.
Frozen battery - battery is unable to give or receive energy as internal resistance is too high (chemical reaction doesn't happen). This often damages the battery.

In our case, Tesla was in DEAD state. Possibly other diagnoses can be added later.

 

[whatthe2]

So I am guessing sarcasm doesn't translate well on the internet, LOL

Oh sorry. Went right over my head.

 

[insaneoctane]

Kinda surprised that there is no update here..... Maybe it's more complicated than we thought.

 

[ℬête Noire]

Kinda surprised that there is no update here..... Maybe it's more complicated than we thought.

The delay pretty much rules out a direct failure of the 12V battery itself. Probably also not the LI pack -> 12V charger hardware, I'd expect that'd be pretty easy to verify. Could be something software related on the later, though.

Once you get past the obvious and into software & electrical system at large working in the maze of a car's systems can be a real bear. Even with yesterday's cars. Especially here since this is a new system, so the tech involved will still be learning it here. There's training, and reading the nominal book, then there is working on the actual system that rolled off the line. Those are different in important ways.

 

[TEG]

Any way to update the original post with updates too please? I just skim-read 300 posts and learnt a lot more about the (mis)use of bricked than what’s happening. ...

No, I was hesitant to change the original post at all, but I am definitely not signing up to keep a "cliff notes summary" updated on the first post.
People have to read through the whole mess if they want to see what has been reported so far.

 

[markb1]

No, I was hesitant to change the original post at all, but I am definitely not signing up to keep a "cliff notes summary" updated on the first post.
People have to read through the whole mess if they want to see what has been reported so far.

Does this forum software support adding a wiki to the thread (like the old forum software)? Still not sure anyone would maintain it, but maybe?

 

[TEG]

Not turning this into a Wiki either !

 

[navguy12]

No. Definitely not. Li-ion battery freezes* at around -25*C.
EV's usually start to waste juice on battery heating while parked at around -15*C.

I'll respectfully disagree.

My buddy drives a Bolt and he has confirmed via analysis of his use of shore power under different temperature regimens. His Bolt begins to show battery conditioning at 12C.

He is involved in the battery industry.

There are other threads on this forum that talk about losing much more juice in the winter (versus summer) when parked at the airport.

 

[ℬête Noire]

I'll respectfully disagree.

My buddy drives a Bolt and he has confirmed via analysis of his use of shore power under different temperature regimens. His Bolt begins to show battery conditioning at 12C.

He is involved in the battery industry.

There are other threads on this forum that talk about losing much more juice in the winter (versus summer) when parked at the airport.

Confirmed on the Bolt (not necessary precisely 12C, I've not been actively observing enough to nail that down, but certainly it happens above freezing, 0C/32F). The Bolt's energy info graphic shows this directly. It gives, as a percentage, the energy use split between drive motors, cabin HVAC, and battery conditioning.**

** What I haven't clarified yet is if the overhead like display power, computers, headlights, are lumped into the first category, left off the list entirely on that page, or lumped in the other category but simply so small it never registers as even 1% as on good days I'll run 100%/0%/0% right from the get-go. It'll read 100/0/0 on good days even before moving.

 

[Chickenlittle]

The delay pretty much rules out a direct failure of the 12V battery itself.

Or it could be indicator that OP has a life and didn’t get around to posting today

 

[ℬête Noire]

Or it could be indicator that OP has a life and didn’t get around to posting today

I had in mind yesterday when he last did post, long after it had been towed away and that he'd even gotten a message about the software update so he knew it was back online, and he relayed their message to him that they were still diagnosing.

P.S. I suppose it's possible it was an obvious 12V battery failure and they want to run more than an extra day to be really sure there wasn't something with a very seldom intermittency that predicated the failure. That seems quite excessive but maybe that's Tesla's SOP here?

 

[ChrisH]

Still no updates. Hmmm.

 

[Reciprocity]

Still no updates. Hmmm.

It's day 12 and my left shoe is still bricked. The dealership will not return my calls. Maybe i shouldn't have left my shoe at a dealership, but I was stumped.

That's the only updates I have.. @MarkS22 do you have any updates?

Edit: there is also now a whole in my sock and while I cannot blame Tesla. I feel like it's partially their fault because of the bricked shoe. I probably shouldn't be walking around without both shoes.

 

[ChrisH]

It's day 12 and my left shoe is still bricked. The dealership will not return my calls. Maybe i shouldn't have left my shoe at a dealership, but I was stumped.

That's the only updates I have.. @MarkS22 do you have any updates?

Lol nice work.

 

[scaesare]

Despite the whole wording thing, let's not kill the messenger. If there are legit issues, I'd like to be aware of them.

The OP previously PM'd me some speculation on the issue that he wants to confirm prior to posting. Out of respect for that I'll not repeat it, but if true may be interesting in light of other events.

 

[ChrisH]

Despite the whole wording thing, let's not kill the messenger. If there are legit issues, I'd like to be aware of them.

The OP previously PM'd me some speculation on the issue that he wants to confirm prior to posting. Out of respect for that I'll not repeat it, but if true may be interesting in light of other events.

Yeah I had wondered if Tesla asked him not to discuss the issue. I know previously he had said he thought it is good to talk about issues that happen but I know Tesla likes to work things out without too much attention.

 

[Reciprocity]

Despite the whole wording thing, let's not kill the messenger. If there are legit issues, I'd like to be aware of them.

The OP previously PM'd me some speculation on the issue that he wants to confirm prior to posting. Out of respect for that I'll not repeat it, but if true may be interesting in light of other events.

Actually, i was mocking everyone but the messenger. The Guy was just looking for some help and passing along vital first hand info. I for one am on edge to know what happened and I want to know the guy got his car back and all is good and I have to Wade through 15 pages of definitions of the word bricked. Just trying to lighten up the thread so the op didn't get discouraged and decide not to share in the future. I for one truly appreciate people sharing this vital into. Could save a very bad day for someone in the future.