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Tesla Model 3 Down: Won't Power Up, and is Inaccessible

Discussion in 'Model 3' started by MarkS22, Feb 10, 2018.

  1. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    I'm starting to think they may have connected the frunk access circuit to the wrong terminal on a relay (NO instead of NC)...

     
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  2. luckyruby

    luckyruby Member

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    I pick up the car tomorrow but here's what the service center said about the issue:
    IMG_1164-1.jpeg
     
    • Informative x 10
  3. stopcrazypp

    stopcrazypp Well-Known Member

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    So your issue was actually the drive unit, not the inverter or DC-DC.
     
  4. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    Looks like an drive unit overcurrent fault caused the pyro fuse to activate thereby cutting all HV power.
     
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  5. Smelias

    Smelias Member

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    Hi all!

    I want to let everyone know that I finally received my Model 3 back from Tesla and I couldn't be happier. They replaced the computer module and updated the firmware to the latest version. Two days in and all is great. I am soooo happy to get her back.
     
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  6. DrLegoHair

    DrLegoHair Member

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    Interesting. This is exactly what happened to my car the first time it was in the shop. I hadn’t seen many people post about bad drive units. Hopefully it doesn’t turn out to be more common.
     
    • Informative x 1
  7. atokosch

    atokosch Member

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    What software did they update you to? I have a Model 3 that is literally 6 days old. This happened to me today.... (I picked up on Saturday 3/17) Tesla had to tow my car from work to the service center and I was given a loaner Model S in the mean time. I am currently on 4.9 and I am eagerly awaiting 10.1, were you given 10.1 to fix the issue? If so, then I am just hoping that my 12V battery was just not being charged due to the bug. I am just trying to figure out, what it could be, I really just want my Model 3 back...
    Thanks for any help in advance!
     
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  8. MarkS22

    MarkS22 Member

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    I was upgraded to 18.4.8 on February 19th. It should’ve been fixed. If you’d like to have your SC contact my SC to compare notes, feel free to PM me.
     
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  9. MarkS22

    MarkS22 Member

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    Has anyone been able to duplicate this?
     
  10. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    Only cases I've read are your that eould open when 12V was present and the other which wouldn't when the 12V was dead.
    @outdoors fancy testing out your tow hook cover?
     
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  11. MikeBur

    MikeBur ManualPilot

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    #591 MikeBur, Mar 23, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
    Apologies. Why do we think this is incorrect behavior? Similar to the X, the frunk is able to be accessed at all times, ie HV disconnect is via the frunk and if emergency services cannot get in vehicle then this option is always available. Same as the X it’s not a place for valuables.

    I know then manual says if car is not powered up then you can use this to enter the frunk, though it doesn’t say this works only if the 12V power is off ;)

    Edit: the above is incorrect. Note as @mongo says, the manual does actually say this is NOT meant to happen if 12V power is present. Leaving as is to ensure @MP3Mike disagree remains valid :)
     
    • Disagree x 1
  12. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it does. Page 17 of January 3, 2018 Model 3 owner's manual:
     
  13. MarkS22

    MarkS22 Member

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    Heh. I mean, only Tesla knows the preferred behavior. They’ve know about my results since February, so it’s really on them to do what they want. The general belief was that it’s only supposed to function if 12v is dead as additional security feature over the manual/mechanical releases on the X/S. First responders have plenty of tools (like a Halligan) that can easily open a hood in an emergency. In an accident, who’s to say the mechanical release wouldn’t get mangled?
     
  14. MarkS22

    MarkS22 Member

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    You’re not pleased with that sample size? That’s like 5% of all Model 3s delivered. ;)
     
  15. mongo

    mongo Well-Known Member

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    Oy! I'm not the one asking about other instances/use of the scientific method. ;)

    (5% in Michigan maybe :))l
     
    • Funny x 1
  16. MikeBur

    MikeBur ManualPilot

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    I stand corrected, I just went and reread the note. Thanks for taking the time to respond, rather than just hit “disagree”... lol, I’m looking at you @MP3Mike ;)
     
  17. MikeBur

    MikeBur ManualPilot

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    True true, and the manual does actually state that this is NOT meant to work... so, it’s a bug with the wiring, or bug with the manual...
     
  18. RDaneel

    RDaneel Member

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    Mark, is your 3 working well? I know Greg wants to get his hands on it for the paint protection, and I want him to have tons of experience before he does mine! ;-)
     
  19. DrLegoHair

    DrLegoHair Member

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    Well, as I said in a previous post I could not open my frunk with jumper cables or a 9V when my 12V system was apparently dead..

    After I got my car back and it was working fine, I was easily able to pop the frunk with the 9V method.

    Still doesn’t explain why my SC said they were able to access the frunk with a jump pack?? o_O
     
    • Informative x 1
  20. DrLegoHair

    DrLegoHair Member

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    Please keep us updated. I’ve had 12V issues similar to you but the underlying cause was said to be missing CAN messages which caused the DC converter to disconnect and kill the 12V. I asked if it could be software related and they seemed to think no.
     

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