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Tesla Model 3 in Australia

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@meowsers what did you do with the original 20" wheels? Are these something people want to buy? I'm asking because I plan on getting rid of the 20" wheels as soon as my P3D+ arrives and swapping them with 18" like you.

ive still got the originals. Will probably swap them for someone’s grey wheels because some people prefer the silver. Otherwise I will keep them for track use or just include them when I sell the car.


The Performance Model with Brembo brakes can’t take the standard 18” wheels. The 18” don’t clear the brake calipers.

which is exactly why I said they were the 18” wheels from tsportline. They have been terrific so far, with no issues worrying about scratching / kerbing the wheels etc. because even if I do... who cares.
 
I've measured it at home using the Tesla/Powerwall app with the car plugged in and the Aircon switched on (not charging). The car will pull 2 to 2.5kW in this configuration. Seems a bit high given the relatively small volume of space it needs to cool?



How do you measure/log the % efficiency of a drive?
I’m using the Stats for Tesla app. It is only available for iOS at the moment but is very good.

I think they are set at around 150Wh/km. I note the sticker on my car when it arrived said 208Wh/km.

I can get 145-155 on the highway trips with AC on in my P3D+ without much effort other than chill mode and not thrashing it away from the lights.

Leaving it in sport mode in heavy city traffic is another story (and a pretty uncomfortable way to drive).
 
I have now done 2 charges since having the wall connector installed (32A single phase). Previously I was using the mobiie connector in a 15A outlet so charging at 12A. I have it set to charge at midnight. The first night, it charged at 32A, right up to 90%. The second night, it stayed at 16A the whole time. I tried it a few times today, and it seems "stuck" on 16A While it is waiting to charge, it show 0/16A on the line below the battery picture, and the Charge Current in the bottom left (with the + and - buttons) shows 16A also. If I turn off Scheduled charge, the Charge Current always starts at 16A and says Max 32A under it, and I can wind it up to 32A, but if I stop charging and then start again it again starts with it set to 16A.

I had the same problem. The charging current setting on the screen is very poorly designed or just doesn’t work. I persisted with having scheduled charging start at 22:00, plug car in (0-16A possible), wait till the charger starts supplying power (not charging, just running the A/C), now 0-32A should be available, click + to increase to 32A, then walk away and lock car. It then charged at 32A and has continued to do so without having to repeat the process.
 
@meowsers what did you do with the original 20" wheels? Are these something people want to buy? I'm asking because I plan on getting rid of the 20" wheels as soon as my P3D+ arrives and swapping them with 18" like you.

I'm sure someone here would be willing to buy them - it just depends on the price.

i.e. If somebody was upgrading their wheels from the 18 aeros then I would buy all 4 from them as spares - keep 2 and probably on-sell the other 2 at cost. There is always a market for people that want a spare wheel for a car that comes with none... and the 20s have a bit of a reputation for being a little fragile (I'm not sure how justified that is but it exists).

The downside is you probably won't be able to fully offset the cost of the Tsportline 18 flow forged - let alone a fully forged 18 that will fit over the brakes. The upside is you end up with much better looking wheels than stock (IMO). Also...If someone buys your 20s to replace their 18s (I have not looked into the offsets) I would be in the market for their 18s. Heck, I'm about to start looking for spare aero covers if anybody hates them!!!!
 
I had the same problem. The charging current setting on the screen is very poorly designed or just doesn’t work. I persisted with having scheduled charging start at 22:00, plug car in (0-16A possible), wait till the charger starts supplying power (not charging, just running the A/C), now 0-32A should be available, click + to increase to 32A, then walk away and lock car. It then charged at 32A and has continued to do so without having to repeat the process.

Yes it is. The manual says if there is a problem and it needs to charge at less than full speed at a location, it will remember that, so maybe that is part of it. Last night I was out with SES until after midnight, so it didnt start scheduled and it automatically went to 32A. I will see what happens tonight.
 
How do you measure/log the % efficiency of a drive?

TeslaFi also shows the efficiency of your drives. I have an Android phone, hence, no Stats for Tesla for me :(.

You can sign up to TeslaFi for a 2wk trial period. The trial period doubles to 4wks if you specify a referral (like me, same username).

TeslaFi logs all your charges and drives. I was able to work out the running costs of charging my SR+ and compare them against the equivalent costs of fuelling our other ICE diesel. The lower running costs for an EV was quite breathtaking :).
 
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I'm sure someone here would be willing to buy them - it just depends on the price.

i.e. If somebody was upgrading their wheels from the 18 aeros then I would buy all 4 from them as spares - keep 2 and probably on-sell the other 2 at cost. There is always a market for people that want a spare wheel for a car that comes with none... and the 20s have a bit of a reputation for being a little fragile (I'm not sure how justified that is but it exists).

The downside is you probably won't be able to fully offset the cost of the Tsportline 18 flow forged - let alone a fully forged 18 that will fit over the brakes. The upside is you end up with much better looking wheels than stock (IMO). Also...If someone buys your 20s to replace their 18s (I have not looked into the offsets) I would be in the market for their 18s. Heck, I'm about to start looking for spare aero covers if anybody hates them!!!!


You can definitely make up the cost of the replacement wheels. I’ve been offered $3k for the set, which I have declined as I’m waiting to swap for the dark grey ones that come on the new P3Ds. Keep in mind if you take them off like I did straight at purchase they have 4 pretty much brand new Michelin PS4S which are essentially $500 a piece in addition the wheel value... To buy straight from Tesla they are charging $6500.
 
TeslaFi also shows the efficiency of your drives. I have an Android phone, hence, no Stats for Tesla for me :(.
I have an iPad but Stats is pretty expensive and doesn't seem to really offer more than TeslaFi other than some controls that you can use in free apps (Tezlab is an option for Android) or program yourself using Tasker as I have done.

I was running Teslaspy, similar price to TeslaFi but seems to be a bigger drain on the battery and I prefer TeslaFi so culled that.

There are also some other options like Teslamate that you can host yourself. I've got this running but in the current config I have it seems to miss polling the car and data gets lost.

I am using TeslaFi which calculates efficiency off the baseline for your model. It also tracks power loss from climate control and idling while parked (Sentry, app polling, etc).
 
Saw a black M3 last night on Kwinana Freeway - exited at Farrington St exit, going south, at 5.50pm. LOVELY looking car from the back (that's ALL I saw!!!).

I did notice though, that the indicator light in the back lighting module is really quite small. One of the smallest I have seen...
 
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So I just saw a dude doing what appear to be a smart summon in the car park at Tesla Brisbane. It was a model S. They guy smiled smugly as I went past on a Neuron Scooter. I tried to look unimpressed! Is there some type of early release happening?

I hope there is! Even just 'summon' wows people. On Sunday we were doing some work around the garage and I said to a friend "I'll just move the car out". "She said - doesn't it move itself?" (as a joke). She let out an expletive as the car lights came on and it moved out towards me... by it's self.
 
I've measured it at home using the Tesla/Powerwall app with the car plugged in and the Aircon switched on (not charging). The car will pull 2 to 2.5kW in this configuration. Seems a bit high given the relatively small volume of space it needs to cool?
That is a lot. The Nissan LEAF pulls about 500W for A/C cooling (and about 1.2kW for heating since it is resistive).

Did it stay that high or did the consumption go down once the set temperature was reached? Presumably they have a variable speed compressor and it only suck as much power as it needs.
 
That is a lot. The Nissan LEAF pulls about 500W for A/C cooling (and about 1.2kW for heating since it is resistive).

Did it stay that high or did the consumption go down once the set temperature was reached? Presumably they have a variable speed compressor and it only suck as much power as it needs.

~26c out today, climate control set for 23.5 w/ automatic fan.

When I jumped in the car, parked in direct sun (cabin overheat no A/C set), at lunchtime the thermometer on the screen read 31c so there was a blast from the blower for a bit to cool the car down (an average span speed of about 4.5 across the afternoon).

According to TeslaFi at least, the climate control has used .64 kWh and a similar general loss during idle across 43km over a total period of 62 minutes of driving so far today.
 
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You can definitely make up the cost of the replacement wheels. I’ve been offered $3k for the set, which I have declined as I’m waiting to swap for the dark grey ones that come on the new P3Ds. Keep in mind if you take them off like I did straight at purchase they have 4 pretty much brand new Michelin PS4S which are essentially $500 a piece in addition the wheel value... To buy straight from Tesla they are charging $6500.

I've got a red P3D due for delivery in December and I'm not a fan of the dark grey rims from the pictures with the red. Unless I change my mind when I see the car, I would be keen to swap for the silver. However I'm in Wollongong and I think you're in Melbourne?
 
Got my invoice today and finance paperwork. Interestingly, the invoice says that the vehicle, a P3D+ VIN 5YJ3F7EC2LF462458 has a build date of 11/10/2019, so 20 days ago today. The invoice was exactly the price that I committed to when I ordered the car, minus the ~$1000 drop in stamp duty (thanks Mr Andrews). Interestingly, there was a price adjustment of $2800 including GST, which is likely the price increases since my original order.

No delivery date, but feeling more real every day.

I got a call today confirming details and advising delivery early to mid December. My VIN is in the same batch - 4624xx. No reservation, ordered first day, P3D red/black, no FSD.
 
I've got a red P3D due for delivery in December and I'm not a fan of the dark grey rims from the pictures with the red. Unless I change my mind when I see the car, I would be keen to swap for the silver. However I'm in Wollongong and I think you're in Melbourne?
Hi Andrew
I'm in Camden area and could be interested in trading for the grey performance wheels to put on my white P3D, i have the silver with currently 3500km
 
Did it stay that high or did the consumption go down once the set temperature was reached? Presumably they have a variable speed compressor and it only suck as much power as it needs.

Don't think I've ever spent long enough sitting inside with it parked and on standby to find out. Will test it the next time I get a new batch of sentry clips that I need to copy off and see if/how it changes over time.