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Tesla Model 3 LR Completely Shuts Down

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So I was driving my Model 3 LR to work Friday night. It is 3 months old. I purchased new. I had the first alert pop up on my way to work. Once I got to work and parked the car, the second alert came up. When I opened the car door, I heard a loud bang from underneath the car. My husband tried to start the car 20 minutes later and it powered down once he got inside. I had to have it towed but was unable to even unlock the car from my app or keycard. Tow truck driver said battery had completely shut down. My battery was charged to 85% when I left home. I still had about 400 km of range left when I got to work. I’ve had zero communication with Tesla. Unfortunately there is nobody to call, it’s just a text message system. I’ve written and heard nothing. Has anyone had this issue? Does anyone e here have any idea of what this could be/how long to fix? Thank you in advance!
 

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So I was driving my Model 3 LR to work Friday night. It is 3 months old. I purchased new. I had the first alert pop up on my way to work. Once I got to work and parked the car, the second alert came up. When I opened the car door, I heard a loud bang from underneath the car. My husband tried to start the car 20 minutes later and it powered down once he got inside. I had to have it towed but was unable to even unlock the car from my app or keycard. Tow truck driver said battery had completely shut down. My battery was charged to 85% when I left home. I still had about 400 km of range left when I got to work. I’ve had zero communication with Tesla. Unfortunately there is nobody to call, it’s just a text message system. I’ve written and heard nothing. Has anyone had this issue? Does anyone e here have any idea of what this could be/how long to fix? Thank you in advance!
Yes I have the same problem. Good you got it towed. Stay on top of the SA...use email. I have had the car in the shop for 30 days ...waiting on a part they say.
 
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My car is quite a bit older than yours but same model. 2018 Model 3 LR RWD. Was in the middle of driving cross country on a house move. 18 miles from my stop for the night, I heard the pop (in motion it almost feels a bit like someone rear ended you) followed by the sudden alarms to pull over immediately as you are about to lose power.

Now, this was past 11pm on a Friday night. Roadside (had about a week left on it actually) got back to my initial message through app in about 30 min. They were trying to get a tow to me. Took about 3.5 hours (this was in Oklahoma City). They wanted to tow it to service center to sit in a lot for Saturday and Sunday since service didn't open until Monday. My driver side window rolled down and would not go up. I had a lot of belongings in car due to move, so I had them tow to the wrecker's yard due to it being locked/staffed 24/7 and cameras on. They did. Got some adhesive plastic up on driver door to protect from elements (good thing too..hard rain Sunday night).

I met tow driver at Tesla service this morning (This tow I had to pay out of pocket as roadside covered "a tow" not multiple). They seemed convinced it was 12v. I told them it was only 2-3 weeks old (I had it changed before trip to avoid being broken down). First service tech gets in car. Pulls up the errors. Says "it's more than 12volt". Helped them push it into service bay to lift. Super hard to push...had me thinking rear motor was bad. They offered me a loaner...so I took it and went back to hotel I'm paying for to figure this out. Contacted them later. Yup. Rear unit drive/Inverter and the pyrotechnic fuse (likely the pop I heard/felt). They claim 9/8 on tentative parts ETA. 1-2 days to replace after they come in.

So I'll finish my move in a rental, fly back to OKC to pick up car when it's ready and drive it back...hoping and praying it doesn't happen again. Confidence in Tesla trouble free driving is a bit shattered for me now.
 
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My car is quite a bit older than yours but same model. 2018 Model 3 LR RWD. Was in the middle of driving cross country on a house move. 18 miles from my stop for the night, I heard the pop (in motion it almost feels a bit like someone rear ended you) followed by the sudden alarms to pull over immediately as you are about to lose power.

Now, this was past 11pm on a Friday night. Roadside (had about a week left on it actually) got back to my initial message through app in about 30 min. They were trying to get a tow to me. Took about 3.5 hours (this was in Oklahoma City). They wanted to tow it to service center to sit in a lot for Saturday and Sunday since service didn't open until Monday. My driver side window rolled down and would not go up. I had a lot of belongings in car due to move, so I had them tow to the wrecker's yard due to it being locked/staffed 24/7 and cameras on. They did. Got some adhesive plastic up on driver door to protect from elements (good thing too..hard rain Sunday night).

I met tow driver at Tesla service this morning (This tow I had to pay out of pocket as roadside covered "a tow" not multiple). They seemed convinced it was 12v. I told them it was only 2-3 weeks old (I had it changed before trip to avoid being broken down). First service tech gets in car. Pulls up the errors. Says "it's more than 12volt". Helped them push it into service bay to lift. Super hard to push...had me thinking rear motor was bad. They offered me a loaner...so I took it and went back to hotel I'm paying for to figure this out. Contacted them later. Yup. Rear unit drive/Inverter and the pyrotechnic fuse (likely the pop I heard/felt). They claim 9/8 on tentative parts ETA. 1-2 days to replace after they come in.

So I'll finish my move in a rental, fly back to OKC to pick up car when it's ready and drive it back...hoping and praying it doesn't happen again. Confidence in Tesla trouble free driving is a bit shattered for me now.
How many miles when the failure occurred?
 
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I normally have it in Chill mode as well. Not sure if that causes any additional stress on the motor.
"Chill" is the "eco" mode. "standard" or "sport" (available on LR with acceleration boost) is the quicker mode. Mechanical/electrical devices break when new and when old. Unfortunately, yours broke when it was fairly new. ICE vehicles break down when they are new also. The difficult part of having a Tesla break down is the service center network locations are not always convenient and the parts supply chain is constrained.
 
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"Chill" is the "eco" mode. "standard" or "sport" (available on LR with acceleration boost) is the quicker mode. Mechanical/electrical devices break when new and when old. Unfortunately, yours broke when it was fairly new. ICE vehicles break down when they are new also. The difficult part of having a Tesla break down is the service center network locations are not always convenient and the parts supply chain is constrained.
Totally agree. Just kind of curious how common this issue is. It seems to happen with 2018 models as well as newer ones. But like you said...sometimes they just break. I will say if it happens to you, you definitely don't have a trust in it like before. Innocence shattered! lol

At least it happened under warranty. Not that I wouldn't still get it fixed at cost, but in the middle of a move and a new home purchase. The last thing I need is a huge car cost.

On a related note, my wife was driving our other car (Chevy Volt) and she had a tire blowout in the middle of nowhere...so the universe really doesn't want me to move!
 
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Just wanted to provide an update. Tesla service beat the parts estimate by about 4 days. Car is repaired. Now I just need to fly back out there to collect it and drive home. All covered under warranty...so I guess a new rear motor. They said they had to update some firmware on the car. Not sure if it's just updating the motor or the motor is different enough from what was installed in 2018?
 
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