TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART

[BIZTEam]

It’s not due to recent software updates. I got the same errors last year and they’re too generic to always map to a specific issue. Remote diags pointed to failing battery coolant heater as well so it was replaced under warranty. If you’re up for a DIY replacement, the HV piece shouldn’t scare you away. Just disconnect the fireman’s loop and shut the car down ahead of time. It’s the coolant mess that would deter me.

You are wrong, he is right. It is due recent sw update. Error is readonly, you cant erase it without Tesla Service Center. Check my previus video.

 

[Doanster1]

You are wrong, he is right. It is due recent sw update. Error is readonly, you cant erase it without Tesla Service Center. Check my previus video.

Yes, the actual reporting of errors on the MCU is a relatively new feature. What I meant was that they were able to remotely diagnose the faulty battery coolant heater well before the recent updates showing the error codes, etc.

 

[pavel.zn]

I haven't been to a service center for quite a while and I was surprised at how many Model s's and X's were packed into the parking lot for repair.

Two tow trucks were trying to find spaces to drop off vehicles at the exact time I was given a ride to the service center from my son. I have an appointment on the 6th but was trying to rule out some things and maybe avoid an expensive trip. I wish now that I had bought some of the diagnostic equipment.

If I was a younger man and hadn't had a heart attack and quad bypass, I would have been gearing up with a hoist and everything else that I would need to work on being able to drop the traction battery out of these cars, but I'm trying to wind down and eventually make it a few years of retirement before my shortened life is done.

I'm hoping it is not the main contactors in the traction battery. I just don't have the equipment to handle the roughly 1,200 pound battery. It has a loaner battery that Tesla never did change out and refuses to change out as of 6 months ago.

The original pack had a contactor issue and was eerily similar to what's going on now...but any fault in the high voltage system would shut the contactor off from letting voltage through.

Have you managed to find the root cause? I have the same codes, so I need a clue what to look at.

 

[Evoforce]

Have you managed to find the root cause? I have the same codes, so I need a clue what to look at.

It ended up being a short in the rear drive motor from intrusion of coolant probably through the bearing. It is a known problem. They claim that I had no warranty even though the last motor replacement was a month shy of 3 years. The replacement motor was over $5,000 plus labor and the final cost was a little north of $6,100. The replacement motor has a warranty of 4 years or 50,000 miles.

Any high voltage short in the system from any high voltage component will likely cause the similar on dash error codes. A HV short will cause the contactor to not energize the car. Good luck! I hope your problem is not as expensive as mine...

 

[pavel.zn]

It ended up being a short in the rear drive motor from intrusion of coolant probably through the bearing. It is a known problem. They claim that I had no warranty even though the last motor replacement was a month shy of 3 years. The replacement motor was over $5,000 plus labor and the final cost was a little north of $6,100. The replacement motor has a warranty of 4 years or 50,000 miles.

Any high voltage short in the system from any high voltage component will likely cause the similar on dash error codes. A HV short will cause the contactor to not energize the car. Good luck! I hope your problem is not as expensive as mine...

Thanks for letting me know. I hope my problem is not the drive motor. Anyway, I'm going to check all the HV components. I have an issue with 12v battery as well, so the root cause could be the DC-DC converter.

 

[Botang]

Hi folks, I am in need of your help

My 2017 Model S 75 has logged a BMS_f027 fault (started as a BMS_w172) which I understand to be related to HV isolation issue. Unfortunately my car is unsupported as it was in a minor accident causing some panel damage 3 years ago (no air bags were deployed). I repaired it at the time and it has been perfect ever since up till now.

Seemingly before I try and deal with the pain of clearing the f027, I need to make sure the isolation fault has been fixed, I suspected the coolant heater to be at fault so replaced it anyway, but I really need to know the expected ohm resistance ratings for the HV components in the system to cross check. It is a single motor RWD car and has the single charger under the rear seat rather than the junction box, so I am assuming to carry out the testing at the front junction box.

I have the MCU in factory mode now.

Can anybody help please?