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Tesla model S Suspension compressor keeps going up and down in pressure

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Well, mine is STILL acting up. The Amazon compressor failed and started making a bad grinding noise so I replaced that again... Now it seems that maybe this new chinesium compressor ALSO has something wrong (arrrrrggggghhhhh) b/c I have a hidden error for a valve block leak detected. What is bizarre: It is leaking UP.

The gallery pressure INCREASES after the compressor is off - first it comes on and pumps the gallery up to 17 bar (an impressive amount of pressure!) and then the gallery pressure drops instantly to 2-3 bar when the compressor shuts off. Now starts a slow climb of the gallery pressure, eventually it will suddenly spike to what I believe was the reservoir pressure, then back to 2-3 bar... And the cycle repeats.

Very annoying. So is it leaking THROUGH the valve block, or through the pump which I just replaced, and which line is doing it? I'm SO TIRED of changing out these damnned parts, just trying to get the car to stop using over 450 wh/mi on the highway!
 
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Well, mine is STILL acting up. The Amazon compressor failed and started making a bad grinding noise so I replaced that again... Now it seems that maybe this new chinesium compressor ALSO has something wrong (arrrrrggggghhhhh) b/c I have a hidden error for a valve block leak detected. What is bizarre: It is leaking UP.

The gallery pressure INCREASES after the compressor is off - first it comes on and pumps the gallery up to 17 bar (an impressive amount of pressure!) and then the gallery pressure drops instantly to 2-3 bar when the compressor shuts off. Now starts a slow climb of the gallery pressure, eventually it will suddenly spike to what I believe was the reservoir pressure, then back to 2-3 bar... And the cycle repeats.

Very annoying. So is it leaking THROUGH the valve block, or through the pump which I just replaced, and which line is doing it? I'm SO TIRED of changing out these damnned parts, just trying to get the car to stop using over 450 wh/mi on the highway!
Stay under 450 wh a mile is simple stay under 45 mph 🤣
 
If you had a toolbox3 login and a 2 post lift with all 4 tires off you can remove the connection at the spring and then use toolbox to fill and deflate each spring to make sure the controller and valve body is working correctly ..you could have a wire harness chaffing on something ..easier said than done
 
If you had a toolbox3 login and a 2 post lift with all 4 tires off you can remove the connection at the spring and then use toolbox to fill and deflate each spring to make sure the controller and valve body is working correctly ..you could have a wire harness chaffing on something ..easier said than done
Well.... I don't and I don't - BUT I know that based on a previous spring leak that if there WAS a problem between the valve block and any of the wheels, they would be leaking down and or showing up on the computer.

Since the error about a valve block leak showed up right after swapping out the pump, the problem is entirely within the pump or the two lines to the valve block... I just don't understand yet how.