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Tesla Offer Model 3/Y Frunk Group Buy

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xtnvieira

Had the exact same issue. Took off the latch, and as someone pointed out above, I tightened the cable. I also moved the latch up just a tiny bit when I reinstalled it. When it goes to close, if you push on it lightly, does it latch. I did this a few times and then it seemed to be working fine.

Dave
 
silly question (only because I was dumb enough to miss this part at one point during many latch adjustment tried on my S) but you do have your plug that plugs into your latch, fully seated, correct? And you also tried pressing the control unit button twice in succession to reset the latch?

I’ll have to check the plugs again tomorrow when I can get at it again. I’ve done the unit reset and some other things Raymond had me.

Had the exact same issue. Took off the latch, and as someone pointed out above, I tightened the cable. I also moved the latch up just a tiny bit when I reinstalled it. When it goes to close, if you push on it lightly, does it latch. I did this a few times and then it seemed to be working fine.

I also tightened my cable. I’ll try your slight pressure suggestion tomorrow. Thanks all! I’m not super worried about it and know I’ll get it sorted eventually. The hard part is over, now I’m just troubleshooting.
 
I adjusted the locking cable and it seems to be working fine. My last thoughts: Getting the strut on the driver’s side was an absolute nightmare. As a final resort, I have a screw driver that is about 2 feet long. I used it to leverage the ball joint against the frame and was able to snap it on. Getting leverage in there is almost impossible.
I had the same issue. In retrospect, I wonder if I should have pulled the clip out slightly to open up the clamp inside the strut, worked the strut on to the ball joint, then pushed the clip back in, basically the strut removal process in reverse. Anyone try that?
 
I got mine installed but not without some difficulty. Everything went together initially and the tests were fine. Then, to re-route some wires, I unplugged the brown connector from the latch motor. After that, it wouldn't go back together! I spent an hour checking the pins and trying to understand what was hanging up. The purple plastic connector kept getting stuck on the plug. I decided to get some pliers and rip the purple part out and too my surprise, it came out easily. Too easy. The purple part is part of the plug, not the motor. Once I slide it back onto the connector, it plugged in just fine. The problem was, the motor no longer worked.

Tesla Offer support was awesome. They responded on WhatsApp in about 10 min. It was 9pm my time (Pacific timezone). By double clicking the controller button, we determined there was no connection to the motor. When I told them about the trouble I had with the connecter, he said it happens and was very familiar with it. I took the plug apart again and at this point, the sockets for the pins had been stretched out a bit so I closed them with some needle nose pliers. After finally getting everything together, it works again. I'm a little concerned about the long term effects of my messing with the connector so I think I'm going to seal the motor in a rubber bag to prevent moisture just in case.

Here is the connecter just in case. The purple plastic part should be attached. You can see the mangled pins :(.
 

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I had the same issue. In retrospect, I wonder if I should have pulled the clip out slightly to open up the clamp inside the strut, worked the strut on to the ball joint, then pushed the clip back in, basically the strut removal process in reverse. Anyone try that?

I actually did this and it helped. The driver side is still just an awkward, tight position.
 
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Hey Dave, I didn't read through the 19 pages of this thread, but is the group by still available? Can the 20% also apply to the foot sensor? I'll direct message you as well. Almost had the SmarTesla installed a few weeks back, do you know what problems are encountered with those parts?
 
I got mine installed but not without some difficulty. Everything went together initially and the tests were fine. Then, to re-route some wires, I unplugged the brown connector from the latch motor. After that, it wouldn't go back together! I spent an hour checking the pins and trying to understand what was hanging up. The purple plastic connector kept getting stuck on the plug. I decided to get some pliers and rip the purple part out and too my surprise, it came out easily. Too easy. The purple part is part of the plug, not the motor. Once I slide it back onto the connector, it plugged in just fine. The problem was, the motor no longer worked.

Tesla Offer support was awesome. They responded on WhatsApp in about 10 min. It was 9pm my time (Pacific timezone). By double clicking the controller button, we determined there was no connection to the motor. When I told them about the trouble I had with the connecter, he said it happens and was very familiar with it. I took the plug apart again and at this point, the sockets for the pins had been stretched out a bit so I closed them with some needle nose pliers. After finally getting everything together, it works again. I'm a little concerned about the long term effects of my messing with the connector so I think I'm going to seal the motor in a rubber bag to prevent moisture just in case.

Here is the connecter just in case. The purple plastic part should be attached. You can see the mangled pins :(.

page 15 post #299...
 
...is the group by still available?...

I am annoyed that I missed out on this great effort.* So as you may have seen, I sent around posts on the TCM Forum asking if anyone else wants to try to secure another Tesla Offer discount. I've actually speed-read through all 19 pages--you guys! And I've communicated with Dave.
  • Anyone have any additional tips/suggestions/warnings/encouragement for those of us yet to buy one?

  • It would really help everyone if there was long-term followup as to successes and failures of frunk devices. Yes they work now. What about in 5 years?

  • FYI, there appears now to be a third brand of electric power frunk device for Teslas from a firm called Match(?) being advertised for sale/installation on the SF Bay area Craig's List. It appears to be a more economical product--perhaps something to be avoided?
_____
* At the end of January I ordered a new 2021 inventory (pre-refresh) Model X to which I want to add the Tesla Offer frunk device as soon as a proper "burn-in" test period is over.
 
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I am annoyed that I missed out on this great effort.* So as you may have seen, I sent around posts on the TCM Forum asking if anyone else wants to try to secure another Tesla Offer discount. I've actually speed-read through all 19 pages--you guys! And I've communicated with Dave.
  • Anyone have any additional tips/suggestions/warnings/encouragement for those of us yet to buy one?

  • It would really help everyone if there was long-term followup as to successes and failures of frunk devices. Yes they work now. What about in 5 years?

  • FYI, there appears now to be a third brand of electric power frunk device for Teslas from a firm called Match(?) being advertised for sale/installation on the SF Bay area Craig's List. It appears to be a more economical product--perhaps something to be avoided?
_____
* At the end of January I ordered a new 2021 inventory (pre-refresh) Model X to which I want to add the Tesla Offer frunk device as soon as a proper "burn-in" test period is over.


I installed mine on my Model S, and its only been on since the offer, so cant speak to much long term durability. Other than it seems like a solid unit, other than a couple of the plugs needing and improved design (so that the pins dont bend when you connect the plugs together) and needing a THOROUGH .PDF install manual at some point, Im fully satisfied at this point. I also love that worst case scenario, if one ever needs or wants to remove it, you can revert back to fully stock in less than an hour with zero cutting/modification, etc of stock wiring/wiring harnesses.

Only other main concern is that the emergency cable cant be tested upfront. When you pull on it, it does nothing. Per support, in case you need to open the frunk manually, you first use the OEM emergency pulls/releases behind the front bumper. If hood still cant be opened, you then pull the emergency release cable thats connected to the TeslaOffer motor and (i guess) hope and pray it all works out.
 
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So after not hearing from TO after my initial order I asked how to contact them here, probably 5-6 pages back. I don't have WhatsApp so I tried Facebook messenger and they responded within the day with the tracking number. Got the kit a couple days after. Tesla SC had my car for 10 days to fix a few paint spots so just got it back.

Just did a diy installed without issues. Started at 5, finished at 7:30, with a break for dinner. Just like everyone said hardest part was the struts. One side I did bottom first, the other top first. Didn't make much difference in difficulty.

One question - when closing, the frunk gets pulled down pass the edge. After it stops/finishes, the lip comes back up 1-2 mm. Which is how it was aligned before so that's fine. Just wondering if everyone gets that little extra pull?
 
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So after not hearing from TO after my initial order I asked how to contact them here, probably 5-6 pages back. I don't have WhatsApp so I tried Facebook messenger and they responded within the day with the tracking number. Got the kit a couple days after. Tesla SC had my car for 10 days to fix a few paint spots so just got it back.

Just did a diy installed without issues. Started at 5, finished at 7:30, with a break for dinner. Just like everyone said hardest part was the struts. One side I did bottom first, the other top first. Didn't make much difference in difficulty.

One question - when closing, the frunk gets pulled down pass the edge. After it stops/finishes, the lip comes back up 1-2 mm. Which is how it was aligned before so that's fine. Just wondering if everyone gets that little extra pull?

Normal function.
See this GIF, note that the latching mechanism comes back up after going all the way down.
20210115_200219_IMG_8059_1.gif
 
I installed mine on my Model S, and its only been on since the offer, so cant speak to much long term durability...

Yes, that's true for us all. It would be nice to have long-term data and anecdotes, but we just have to trust that the unit is well-built and engineered. (Apparently not the case with the main rival brand. Various problems started popping up with that relatively quickly, I believe.)

...and needing a THOROUGH .PDF install manual...

I have a home-made pdf for the Model X installation, if anyone is interested. (Let me know.)

...I also love that worst case scenario, if one ever needs or wants to remove it, you can revert back to fully stock in less than an hour with zero cutting/modification, etc of stock wiring/wiring harnesses...

That is an attractive characteristic. Very important to save all the OEM Tesla parts removed from the car during installation.

...emergency cable...

I think there was someone on TMC who couldn't get their Hansshow-equiped hood open? Had to have a Tesla SC do it (took 3 days?) for almost $700. Being able to mechanically open a hood when there's loss of power or whatever sounds important to me.
 
Did any of you receive a new module out of the blue? Tesla Offer sent me a Mark 3 module for some reason. This one has SW v10.F12 build 20210115. The original module I received with my kit was a Mark 4 with SW v10.F15 build 20200610. I wasn't expecting anything from them but after our troubleshooting with the suction motor connector, the only thing I would potentially need would be a wiring harness if mine ever goes bad. I've sent them a WhatApp message but it is a holiday there so I'll wait to hear back. I just wondered if anyone else got one?
 
Did any of you receive a new module out of the blue? Tesla Offer sent me a Mark 3 module for some reason...

OK, so I am, like, totally jealous. I cannot even get one Electric Frunk device (at discount) and you get two! Not fair! (Ha, ha.)

Too bad my car will be an X, so can't even use your kit. Actually the Model X can only use a TO Mark 3.0 version at this point. You can see the general differences between the frunk-device versions here (taken from the Tesla Offer Model 3 page):

Version Differences.jpg

I believe there is a video on YouTube by Tesla Offer explaining why the added safety feature was needed for 3 and Y cars? Has to do with the front latch and a design change by Tesla.
 
Does anyone know if there's settings for the speaker. The speaker beeps when the frunk opens, closes and latches. But I also noticed the speaker beeps when I open a door and only the first time coming out of sleep, I think.

Guess it would help if there's anywhere to find directions for all the programmable settings? I only know bout the speed and height settings.