The guy in this video (which is linked on TeslaOffer's site) mentions he's an installer in the Bay Area:
From the info of the video, his email is [email protected]. I haven't used him, so this is just info being passed along.
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Tesla Offer Model 3/Y Frunk Group Buy
- Thread starter CLLACAB
- Start date
From the info of the video, his email is [email protected]. I haven't used him, so this is just info being passed along.
jmatero
Member
You checked your spam, junk folders? Then I would try Whatsapp to reach them, supposed to be preferred way. Definitely would make sure before cutoff of that saving code, in case they lost the order.
Contact - Tesla Offer
Contact - Tesla Offer
TinkyWinks
Member
The TO order confirmation email ended up in my junk folder but no shipping notification.
Srad600Volt
Member
Some are getting some amazingly fast shipping and others (like me, who ordered last Thursday) have gotten not much more that an order receipt. I'm not worried yet though, just trying to be patient...
Some are getting some amazingly fast shipping and others (like me, who ordered last Thursday) have gotten not much more that an order receipt. I'm not worried yet though, just trying to be patient...
I'm with you brother!!! I see you are in SoCal also... Hopefully the kit just shows up on on our doorstep tomorrow or Friday!!
Flybuddy
Member
Some are getting some amazingly fast shipping and others (like me, who ordered last Thursday) have gotten not much more that an order receipt. I'm not worried yet though, just trying to be patient...
Same here, would be nice if they communicated delays.
TinkyWinks
Member
Installed mine last night. I didn't have a pick tool and it was impossible to remove the struts. Picked up a 90 degree pick tool from harbor freight and got them off in just a couple mins. The rest is just plugging in connectors. Doing it for the first time sucks and can be intimidating. Once you finish you realize it is easy and can knock another one out in probably 30mins.
Need help!
Like a dummy, I connected the new strut on the driver side upside down. Anyone have any ideas about how to get the strut off the lower ball joint? I didn't use a pick took to get the OEM ball joints off. I just disconnected the top and then loosened the 13mm bolt with a wrench and then hand loosened.
Also, does anyone else have welds in the way of the new ball joint plate sitting flush against the inside?
Like a dummy, I connected the new strut on the driver side upside down. Anyone have any ideas about how to get the strut off the lower ball joint? I didn't use a pick took to get the OEM ball joints off. I just disconnected the top and then loosened the 13mm bolt with a wrench and then hand loosened.
Also, does anyone else have welds in the way of the new ball joint plate sitting flush against the inside?
Thanks. Waiting to install is paying off for me with all the feedback here... Not sure how much I would save by traveling to Harbor Freight to get one of these, so I will just pop by my local Home Depot instead. HR is at least 1 hour drive to and from for me, HD is 5 minutes and a set of 4 tools is only $7 at HD.
xtnvieira
Member
Does the method using a flat head screw driver shown in the Electrified Garage video not work? Is the pick tool really necessary?
No, not really. It's just that the tip of the tool needs to be thin/flat enough to get under the loaded spring clip to pry it up.
OK...I got a pick tool and still having a really rough time getting the strut off because of the really tight space on the driver side. Do you guys think it matters which direction the strut is oriented? Assuming I do proper cable management so it doesn't get pinched, that is.
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
I wouldn’t recommend leaving the strut upside down.
Assuming you are able to remove the top connection first - maybe easier to remove the bolt down below then release the strup when not in the tight space.
If you cannot remove the bolt, I would try using the open end of a wrench to push the strut off the ball, so the wrench is against the metal straddling the ball used as a lever to push the strut off the ball.
@jwalther420
Assuming you are able to remove the top connection first - maybe easier to remove the bolt down below then release the strup when not in the tight space.
If you cannot remove the bolt, I would try using the open end of a wrench to push the strut off the ball, so the wrench is against the metal straddling the ball used as a lever to push the strut off the ball.
@jwalther420
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I tried with a flathead for about 30 mins, I couldn't get it, it might be possible. Got a the pick set for $8 and popped both off in less than a minute.
I didn't bother using the pick tool on the bottom, I took the bolt off completely using a 1/2 wrench.
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the strut blocks the bolt head so you can't get in there to loosen it. I'll give the wrench a try to leverage but those things seem to REALLY be on there.
Is there a technical reason they can't be upside down? Seems like a piston should work either way.
Ruffles
Member
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