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accidentally broke one of the frunk clip when putting the frunk back in. anyone have any idea how to remove the broken clip, so i can install a new clip when i get one? i even try to remove one of the clips not broken, and i can't figure it out. :(

1472872-00-B%203-270x270.jpeg
I know what you mean. I think the only way to remove it is to break it at the weak spot and drill it out. I have some on order and will update once I receive/install them.
 
Where did you find new clips? I broke 2.

i haven't found a 3rd party to order them yet.
I did the exact same thing. You need to visit your local SC and order them. Part no. 1472872-00-B.

AWESOME thanks for the part number.
I know what you mean. I think the only way to remove it is to break it at the weak spot and drill it out. I have some on order and will update once I receive/install them.

let us know how it goes once you get them. it seems impossible to remove them without breaking them.
 
What does homelink have to do with the frunk?? Is the frunk kit set up as an additional door? Why would that be needed or wanted?

P.S. got word that mine just shipped (also got the DHL notice for Wed 2/3 delivery). It was ordered 6 hours after the code went out to everyone.
 
accidentally broke one of the frunk clip when putting the frunk back in. anyone have any idea how to remove the broken clip, so i can install a new clip when i get one? i even try to remove one of the clips not broken, and i can't figure it out. :(

1472872-00-B%203-270x270.jpeg

I noticed two clips were broken when I removed the tub, so I swap the broken one with the good ones holding the top cover so don't have the remove the tub again when I get the replacement.

Use a small pry tool behind the front of the clip (against the metal), when prying use your finger to push the clip out from behind.

Went to the SC just now to get them but they are out of stock, they are kind enough to arrange for a mobile tech to come out and replace them in couple weeks.
 
Well got mine installed, 4.5 hours later. Pick tool was a must for me, 3 different screwdrivers and no way to release the struts. Finally got it via the pick tool but even then they would not release easily. 2.5 hours just to swap out the struts. Does not help when you lose the new bolt and it is not magnetic. My hands look like I've been a street brawl, knuckles all torn up, hands full of scrapes. Not for those with big mitts like me I guess.

It just fought me every step of the way. After all aligned, tested and put back together, it would not close, it would just jerk a bit and give up. Not sure what happened there, like it lost its brain about when the latch was open or closed. I had to manually move it down halfway and then it worked. You could not pay me enough to install another one of these. If I had a second Tesla, I'd be looking for somebody else to install that one.

Pro tip, buy more cable ties before starting the job, just in case. The cable ties in my kit were brittle, they would snap whenever I tried to bend then too much. Not easy to run out to HD in the middle of this job, if this is only your only vehicle.
 
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For those who have installed themselves, does this look correct for the passenger side plate after being screwed on? I'm not sure it's resting on anything, and it's kind of "leaning" against the side of the fender instead of sitting flush. Feels like the screw will be doing all the work, and the plate is just kind of sitting there. Just want to be sure before I put the new strut on.
 

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For those who have installed themselves, does this look correct for the passenger side plate after being screwed on? I'm not sure it's resting on anything, and it's kind of "leaning" against the side of the fender instead of sitting flush. Feels like the screw will be doing all the work, and the plate is just kind of sitting there. Just want to be sure before I put the new strut on.
Yes
 
So I took a few breaks along the way, but it was a solid 4 total hours for me including...

1) borrowing my wife’s forearms for the strut removal and install as mine did not fit,
2) second guessing when we agreed to install the lower ball strut mount (pass vs drivers side) ... then I found the install page,
3) mounting the TO motor/actuator to the drivers side frame - to then learn that it’s awfully snug when I reinstalled the frunk tub - though it did ultimately work.

It’s certainly a fun DIY, and I’d totally do it again in half the time.

My wife things I’m weird - and it was a silly use of money - but it makes me smile and I know I’ll use the frunk more now that I have a soft close mechanism.
 
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So I took a few breaks along the way, but it was a solid 4 total hours for me including...

1) borrowing my wife’s forearms for the strut removal and install as mine did not fit,
2) second guessing when we agreed to install the lower ball strut mount (pass vs drivers side) ... then I found the install page,
3) mounting the TO motor/actuator to the drivers side frame - to then learn that it’s awfully snug when I reinstalled the frunk tub - though it did ultimately work.

It’s certainly a fun DIY, and I’d totally do it again in half the time.

My wife things I’m weird - and it was a silly use of money - but it makes me smile and I know I’ll use the frunk more now that I have a soft close mechanism.

It will bring more smiles as the time passes. I've caught at least a dozen other Tesla owners staring in admiration as they drool over the power frunk. All the bystanders get a kick out of it whenever I go to pick up takeout. :D
 
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I noticed two clips were broken when I removed the tub, so I swap the broken one with the good ones holding the top cover so don't have the remove the tub again when I get the replacement.

Use a small pry tool behind the front of the clip (against the metal), when prying use your finger to push the clip out from behind.

Went to the SC just now to get them but they are out of stock, they are kind enough to arrange for a mobile tech to come out and replace them in couple weeks.
I brought my car in to show them the broken clip. They’re sending a mobile tech out to replace it.
 
I plugged the brown plug in and unplugged to move the motor and it wouldn’t go back in. The purple plastic inside the plug shifted, so had to fix that and one of my strut connector pins bent when initially plugged in.

I have the same problem with the brown connector for the motor, how did you fix the purple plastic piece? It wouldn’t seat fully but making connection, so I just zip tie it.
 
I pushed the lower purple section up where the lower groves are. Apparently the purple was pushed down into that slot and was blocking the plug from sliding in.

Had this issue. Take the purple piece and place carefully over the male portion of the plug, then insert male plug (with the purple part attached) carefully into the female portion. It should then connect/secure easily/perfectly. If purple piece is stuck inside the female plug, use a pic or maybe skinny flathead and pull it out
 
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I pushed the lower purple section up where the lower groves are. Apparently the purple was pushed down into that slot and was blocking the plug from sliding in.

Had this issue. Take the purple piece and place carefully over the male portion of the plug, then insert male plug (with the purple part attached) carefully into the female portion. It should then connect/secure easily/perfectly. If purple piece is stuck inside the female plug, use a pic or maybe skinny flathead and pull it out

Thanks, I will try both methods.