Can't help you with an installer, but the price seems excessively high for a job that really should take no more than one hour to a professional. I really hate it when people charge prices based on what car you drive.
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Tesla Offer Model 3/Y Frunk Group Buy
- Thread starter CLLACAB
- Start date
Can't help you with an installer, but the price seems excessively high for a job that really should take no more than one hour to a professional. I really hate it when people charge prices based on what car you drive.
Midnightsun
Active Member
If they have no clue what they are doing it will take 2 hrs. After having installed one, it can be done in 30-45 minutes.
mcorf
Member
The guy’s from Tesla Offer told me to take my 2019 Model 3 first as it will be easier for them, and that will make the Y that much quicker. They have me blocked off from 9:00-12:00 on Friday, so 3 hours is about what you just said.
Tools needed aren't much. I would say:
- spudger if you're concerned about scratching interior panels, otherwise a flathead will work.
- Pick tool for releasing the retention springs on the OEM struts
- 10mm socket for removing bolts
- 13mm wrench for removing OEM strut mounts
- Hex or torx bit for attaching new plates. (side note: I keep seeing the screws referred to as torx screws, they're actually hex screws. Either bit will work, of course). Or you can use an allen key.
- Needlenose pliers for releasing and re-setting the latch spring
- Extra cable ties
- Snips to trim the excess off cable ties.
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Yeah agree. I'm kind of shocked at that price. There used to be a guy here who charged $200 which, while still high, seems more reasonable but they no longer live in the state.
If you think that's bad, the closest (and only) Tesla Offer approved installer to me wanted £500 (almost $700). That's more than I paid for the kit! I did it myself and I'm glad I did because it was easier than it looks.
BManCan
Member
Any comments or concerns raised by mobile service when they saw the power frunk kit?
xtnvieira
Member
Just finished my install. Probably in record time while trying to take care of a 6 month old. Hands down, the struts are the most annoying/painful (literally) part of the process. Once you understand how the retainer clip on the strut heads work, it becomes easier by using the pick tool to “release” the clip so that you can more easily attach the strut to the ball mounts. (It sounds so simple when it’s typed out, but this easily caused the most frustration).
You all we’re not kidding about how much more a pain in the ass installing the driver’s side strut is. Passenger side I knocked out relatively quickly. Driver’s side took MUCH longer just trying to re-attach the new motorized strut.
My suggestion to anyone attempting this: find pick tools that are at least 6” inches long. The Husky pack I got from Home Depot were just short enough that the handle hit the body of the car creating a real nuisance for me trying to get leverage/into the driver’s side strut area to pry open the release clip on the strut head. Trust me, and try to find a longer set than I did.
Also, definitely pick up some extra zip ties as recommended by someone else. Ideally you can get a pack with multiple sizes and thicknesses. A couple of the included zips ties straight up snapped just picking them up.
Other than that everything went smoothly. Followed the FTG video.
Only issue I’m having is the frunk lid (when closing) comes all the way down and sits on top of the latch but doesn’t actually seat itself down into the final position, I have to manually push it down the rest of the way. Anyone else have this problem or the solution to it?
You all we’re not kidding about how much more a pain in the ass installing the driver’s side strut is. Passenger side I knocked out relatively quickly. Driver’s side took MUCH longer just trying to re-attach the new motorized strut.
My suggestion to anyone attempting this: find pick tools that are at least 6” inches long. The Husky pack I got from Home Depot were just short enough that the handle hit the body of the car creating a real nuisance for me trying to get leverage/into the driver’s side strut area to pry open the release clip on the strut head. Trust me, and try to find a longer set than I did.
Also, definitely pick up some extra zip ties as recommended by someone else. Ideally you can get a pack with multiple sizes and thicknesses. A couple of the included zips ties straight up snapped just picking them up.
Other than that everything went smoothly. Followed the FTG video.
Only issue I’m having is the frunk lid (when closing) comes all the way down and sits on top of the latch but doesn’t actually seat itself down into the final position, I have to manually push it down the rest of the way. Anyone else have this problem or the solution to it?
Are you sure the hook on the underside of the lid is properly lined up with the latch? I found the technique of marking it with a pen before removing it and then matching the marks when re-installing didn't give me as good an alignment as I'd hoped. I ended up crouching down and observing where the hook was landing as I manually closed the lid. The good news is it's easily adjusted by just loosening the two 10mm bolts and adjusting it slightly, then re-tightening.
I marked around my latch with a special pen before taking it off, and I still had issues getting it aligned when putting it back together. I probably spent 20 minutes adjusting it the best I could, no idea why that was so hard to put back when I hard marked the outline before removal.
But the main reason for this reply was that the TO cable pull latch attachment that I attached to the Tesla latch mechanism was not set up correctly, the adjustment nuts were many turns backed off and the entire cable assembly was loose. I had to re-adjust it once assembled with the Tesla latch piece for correct tension on that wire, making sure it was tight and locked. There was no way to just leave it like that and expect it to work. If your unit was similar and correctly not adjusted, then I would expect problems operating the latch.
He thought it was cool and said first time he had seen it on a Y
Wreckz
Member
Arrived today in the mail and installed it.. Experienced the same thing in the above posts. The driver side was a pain. I guess i have big hands and forearms and getting the mount was a difficult for me. Was super afraid I would drop the hex bolt. Popping in the struts wasn't to bad. Used Frugal Tesla Guy instructions.
It took me 2 hours to install.. And if I had to do it again would probably take me 2 hours.
@xtnvieira I would do what @DaveORD suggested. What I did was make sure the latch was open and then adjust the cable to had little slack. Tighten up two 10mm screws to lock it in place. Ultimately though I would just hit up Tesla Offers.. I'm sure they know the fix.
I think this is money well spent in my situation. My parking has low ceilings limiting my trunk to open up all the way.
Question: Is it suppose to be pretty loud when releasing latch? Caught me off guard when opening it. I don't remember how loud it was before install.. I've only opened the frunk twice.
The video probably sounds louder than it is....
It took me 2 hours to install.. And if I had to do it again would probably take me 2 hours.
@xtnvieira I would do what @DaveORD suggested. What I did was make sure the latch was open and then adjust the cable to had little slack. Tighten up two 10mm screws to lock it in place. Ultimately though I would just hit up Tesla Offers.. I'm sure they know the fix.
I think this is money well spent in my situation. My parking has low ceilings limiting my trunk to open up all the way.
Question: Is it suppose to be pretty loud when releasing latch? Caught me off guard when opening it. I don't remember how loud it was before install.. I've only opened the frunk twice.
The video probably sounds louder than it is....
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Wreckz
Member
Srad600Volt
Member
I agree with the previous posts, I'd think that either you left too much/little slack on the adjuster nuts OR you mounted the latch incorrectly. The FTG video shows just how taught the line should be, I used that as a guide. For the latch mounting, I also used the tape method (rather than a pen). Using paint pens to align things in the past, I've found unless you use one with a very fine tip, the line of the paint leaves just enough wiggle room to cause issues.
Not sure if it supposed to be, but it sure is "within spec".
go out and click your button on the control unit twice in succession. Short presses for both, not long presses.
Resets the latch mechanism. Thats what Raymond had me do, and it worked.
Flybuddy
Member
Only issue I’m having is the frunk lid (when closing) comes all the way down and sits on top of the latch but doesn’t actually seat itself down into the final position, I have to manually push it down the rest of the way. Anyone else have this problem or the solution to it?[/QUOTE]
Sounds like you might have the latch positioned a bit low. If you've got it all back together you can simply unclip the emergency button panel (the one in the front of the frunk that's lit) and access the two 10 mm bolts holding the latch in place. Loosen them just to the point that you can change the position of the latch and pull it up slightly and evenly on both sides. Retest and you should be good, if not keep adjusting position. Good luck.
Sounds like you might have the latch positioned a bit low. If you've got it all back together you can simply unclip the emergency button panel (the one in the front of the frunk that's lit) and access the two 10 mm bolts holding the latch in place. Loosen them just to the point that you can change the position of the latch and pull it up slightly and evenly on both sides. Retest and you should be good, if not keep adjusting position. Good luck.
Flybuddy
Member
Sounds like you might have the latch positioned a bit low. If you've got it all back together you can simply unclip the emergency button panel (the one in the front of the frunk that's lit) and access the two 10 mm bolts holding the latch in place. Loosen them just to the point that you can change the position of the latch and pull it up slightly and evenly on both sides. Retest and you should be good, if not keep adjusting position. Good luck.
jmatero
Member
Can anyone explain the reason behind the loose connection on the latch bracket? I've seen it in several pics (mine is also that way) and even in the video, it was installed loose. Did yours come this way.
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