Tesla Offer Trunk/Frunk Group Buy (3/S/X)

[P3dStealth]

I installed my frunk today. Overall it's a good setup. The only thing I think needs improvement is the inline fuse. It should be waterproof and I am wondering if it really should be a 25amp fuse. I wrapped it in electrical tape really good. They did good on the rest of the kit. All other connectors had rubber seals.

I had a problem where it was not retracting. Turns out a pin in one of the connectors was not locked in and when I connected it the pin just pushed out the back. Easy fix but it took me a while to figure it out. If you have a problem check your connectors.

I found a glitch. If you leave the hood open long enough the car will go to sleep and a while after that the module will go to sleep. This is good. The glitch is when you wake the car If you go to close the hood it will only open even though it is still open. You won't be able to close it. You will have to hold the module button to reset it again. They need a firmware update to fix this.

 

[P3dStealth]

If anyone needs an install in the long island NY area message me.

 

[tlr1000]

Placed an order just now for a Model X frunk kit. Sounds like the install isn’t too bad, so I’ll give it a go. Thanks @kev1n for organizing!

Overall install on the X is a bit more work than the 3 but still not too hard. I was stumped for hours on the X as it would not close properly. After a lot of time, it turned out it had nothing to do with the kit but it was the hook on the top of the X's hood that was not aligned from the factory. I had to unscrew it and move it to the left and re tighten it. Then it worked flawlessly.

 

[random155]

Anyone worried about warranty issues installing this? Mine came in but I'm scared if something goes wrong, totally unrelated, they will blame it on this.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Anyone worried about warranty issues installing this? Mine came in but I'm scared if something goes wrong, totally unrelated, they will blame it on this.

There are reports that the 12V battery might lose warranty coverage.

 

[P3dStealth]

I'm not worried about the 12v battery warranty. It's just a car battery.

I hooked both the trunk and frunk directly to the battery. They cant say much if you go right to the battery. No way these things are pulling a significant amount of amps and they only run for 3 seconds only in park. If they void even a battery warranty it's messed up if you ask me.

I tested it and the control box does power down on its own a while after they car goes to sleep. They aren't always on. You can leave the hood open and watch the lights go out eventually.

 

[random155]

I'm not worried about the 12v battery warranty. It's just a car battery.

I hooked both the trunk and frunk directly to the battery. They cant say much if you go right to the battery. No way these things are pulling a significant amount of amps and they only run for 3 seconds only in park. If they void even a battery warranty it's messed up if you ask me.

I tested it and the control box does power down on its own a while after they car goes to sleep. They aren't always on. You can leave the hood open and watch the lights go out eventually.

Yeah i figured my bumper to bumper is up in March so if my 12v goes between now and then I'll just pay to have it replaced since they will probably say the opener killed the battery

 

[P3dStealth]

Correction the frunk control box turns off. I havent seen the trunk one turn off because I covered it with the carpet. The frunk one I can easy.

I put the frunk in 45mins. The trunk took me 2hrs. When you put the trunk in it's way easier to de-pin the connector that goes through the trunk sleeve. Also if you have a weed wacker use the trim line as a snake. Works great.

If you are running power to the battery like me there is a gromet with two orange lines that go through on the passenger side footwell. Be careful not to cut the HV lines. It's a very thick grommet. I stabbed it with a box cutter and still couldn't get the wire through without taping it to a large screw driver and pushing pretty hard. You can't even tell it's cut.

 

[kev1n]

Correction the frunk control box turns off. I havent seen the trunk one turn off because I covered it with the carpet. The frunk one I can easy.

I put the frunk in 45mins. The trunk took me 2hrs. When you put the trunk in it's way easier to de-pin the connector that goes through the trunk sleeve. Also if you have a weed wacker use the trim line as a snake. Works great.

If you are running power to the battery like me there is a gromet with two orange lines that go through on the passenger side footwell. Be careful not to cut the HV lines. It's a very thick grommet. I stabbed it with a box cutter and still couldn't get the wire through without taping it to a large screw driver and pushing pretty hard. You can't even tell it's cut.

there is an easier 12v under rear passenger seat next to the HV cutoff

 

[GNFO]

Just finished the frunk install on both of our Model Xs. The first one took a while since it is not ideal to try and perform an installation based solely on a YouTube video. Starting, stopping, rewinding, wake the phone up, etc. The second one, unsurprisingly, went very quickly. During the first install I had to contact Raymond at Tesla Offer since it wasn't clear to me from the video that there were replacement bolts for the lower strut attachment. He acknowledged that the video is a little dark and that they are working on written instructions for the X. They already have them for the 3 and that would have helped a bunch. As mentioned before, the 12v connection is a little different than the version shown on the video. There is just a single bolt there that works just fine. The brake fluid cap interferes with the location for the control box they used in the video (their car doesn't have it for some reason), but it can go in space to the left of the 12V distribution box. The "extra" connections aren't part of the cables any more, and the emergency release cable has been added. To his credit, Raymond was prompt and very helpful, and surprisingly answered me at 2 AM his time! (Hong Kong)

One other note. During my first install, I discovered that I had to grind about 3/16" off the edge of the right strut bracket and re-paint it. I wrote it off as variance in my 2017 car, but I discovered that I had to do the same thing with our 2018 model as well. I haven't seen anyone else mention this, and while I have the tools to easily grind the thick metal, someone with just a hacksaw would have a hard time. Not impossible, it would just be very awkward and irritating.

The kit itself works great. Very seamless operation. Works like it was always part of the car.

 

[tlr1000]

@GNFO is right about the right side bracket and I had the same issue on a 2019. TeslaOffer knows about this and are going to revise the right side bracket. An alternate solution to grinding the edge of the bracket is to drill out the bracket a bit so that fits properly.

 

[katie3]

@GNFO is right about the right side bracket and I had the same issue on a 2019. TeslaOffer knows about this and are going to revise the right side bracket. An alternate solution to grinding the edge of the bracket is to drill out the bracket a bit so that fits properly.

I just installed mine and noticed the same thing. I didn’t think it was a big deal bc it lifted that leading edge of the bracket maybe a millimeter at most and did not preclude the bolt from being screwed in tight (at least not on my bracket). Also, I think the articulation of the ball joint and the inherent play in that connection makes it a more tolerant “defect”. That said, I’ll take a new bracket if they come out with one .

 

[P3dStealth]

there is an easier 12v under rear passenger seat next to the HV cutoff

Damnit. Would have saved me an hour.

 

[glitch1985]

So I installed the frunk opener today since it's easier than the trunk. I brought the rear trunk kit inside so I could look everything over and noticed that it has the foot sensor that I didn't order. Did anybody elses order come with a bonus?

 

[tlr1000]

So I installed the frunk opener today since it's easier than the trunk. I brought the rear trunk kit inside so I could look everything over and noticed that it has the foot sensor that I didn't order. Did anybody elses order come with a bonus? View attachment 597386

I bought mine before this group buy and was accidentally sent the foot sensor. Since I had it, I decided to install it. I am glad I put it in but sometimes if I'm loading or unloading stuff I accidentally trigger it. In hindsight, if I were to redo it all over, I'd wire in a toggle switch to the front of the car (when running VC power) so I can deactivate the foot sensor if I wanted.

 

[glitch1985]

I bought mine before this group buy and was accidentally sent the foot sensor. Since I had it, I decided to install it. I am glad I put it in but sometimes if I'm loading or unloading stuff I accidentally trigger it. In hindsight, if I were to redo it all over, I'd wire in a toggle switch to the front of the car (when running VC power) so I can deactivate the foot sensor if I wanted.

Having a toggle is a good idea. I didn't order the one with the foot switch because I didn't want to deal with taking off the bumper and potentially messing up the wrap. Is it possible to install it back out of the way more where it's not likely to be triggered accidentally?

 

[tlr1000]

Having a toggle is a good idea. I didn't order the one with the foot switch because I didn't want to deal with taking off the bumper and potentially messing up the wrap. Is it possible to install it back out of the way more where it's not likely to be triggered accidentally?

Installing it further back is a good idea as well but that also means trying to find a good balance of still easy access (not having to reach your foot too far in) and not accidentally triggering it.

If you have a newer car there is a trailer hitch panel and bumper removal is not necessary to install the foot switch.

 

[bbk3e]

I just installed mine and noticed the same thing. I didn’t think it was a big deal bc it lifted that leading edge of the bracket maybe a millimeter at most and did not preclude the bolt from being screwed in tight (at least not on my bracket). Also, I think the articulation of the ball joint and the inherent play in that connection makes it a more tolerant “defect”. That said, I’ll take a new bracket if they come out with one .

I installed the frunk kit, but the frunk will not fully close - I have to still push the last bit (about the thickness of the hood) for the latch to engage. Anyone know what the cause may be?

 

[random155]

I had to unbolt the latch mechanism and push it up as high as it could go.

 

[P3dStealth]

I installed the frunk kit, but the frunk will not fully close - I have to still push the last bit (about the thickness of the hood) for the latch to engage. Anyone know what the cause may be?

I had to adjust the cable nut slightly to get mine to close. Try to back it out some.

Also like the other poster said you can move the whole latch assembly up or side to side.