Tesla Paint is the most delicate automobile paint I've ever seen

[MarkS22]

I have to agree. I even use a single bucket technique. Meaning multiple freshly washed microfiber clothes that are never reused. I fold them in half, flip them a couple times each panel. I start at the top and work down. They're color coded so certain ones are only for the tires or glass. I pre soak with clean water from a pump sprayer. I dry with large waffle weave in place. Heck, I even did water sheeting and a leaf blower for a while. Still got fine swirls. I've tried multiple brands of microfiber, like Chemical Guys, and varying levels of thickness. All the tags are removed. Some are edgeless. This is all with Optimum No Rinse. On top of this, I had a two-step correction and cQuartz applied about 7,000 miles ago, so I can only imagine what it would look like without.

Granted, it's a a black car, so no doubt swirls will happen. But if using a fresh quality microfiber gently on each panel is causing swirls, I think there's room for improvement. My last black car didn't have this level of swirling.

 

[shokunin]

Almost 3 years, no swirls on metallic blue. Did a minor paint correction and applied 2 coats of Opti-Coat when I first received the car back in 2012.

I too use a single bucket, with 5 microfiber towels free of all debris and dirt. I use ONRWW (Optimum No-Rinse with Wax). Soak the towels in a 2 gallon bucket. Using a large Kwazar sprayer (or garden sprayer) I mix up a quick detail concentration of ONRWW and spray it liberally over the area being washed. I then use the soaked microfiber towels to wipe down an area, flipping sides (both sides) after each swipe. Do not return the microfiber towel once you take it out of the bucket, after it's dirty put it another empty bucket for your dirty towels.

I then spray a light mist of Ultima Waterless Wash Plus as sort of drying agent. Not needed, but I like the feel of Ultima when dry. Again use more clean microfiber towels to dry an area off. I used to use a metro blower but prefer wiping down.

I start from the top, then do the back, 2xsides, and the front. 1 towel for each area, and several more for drying. I use the Korean extra soft fluffy non-looped microfiber towels. The standard looped towels seem to trap every single piece of leaf, branch, twig, and is impossible for me to keep clean.

 

[linuxkidd]

Anyone using Zaino and their recommended technique? I've used the Z2/Z6 combination for the last decade and find it hard to believe that using their technique could result in any swirls. In fact, for the my last two new cars I asked the dealer not to wash it when the cars arrived so that I could start Zaino as the first layer protection. You know you have it perfect when a dry towel will slide off of any inclined surface of the car.

I picked up my S and drove it straight to the garage for an application of Z-W w/ ZFX followed up with Z-8. It looks amazing, and I completely agree, their techniques are great for preventing damage to your paint. Used their stuff and techniques for over 10 years now.

I just dropped the car off this past Monday at Incognito Wraps for a head to tail wrap in Nano-Fusion PPF. While Zaino is amazing, it's not going to protect the finish from some jackass sliding their riveted jeans across it while loading their car next to mine.

FWIW, Sal Zaino confirmed his products are perfect for use under and over PPF products.

Oh, one deviation.. I do use the two bucket wash method with a lamb's wool wash mitt.

LK

 

[sledhead36]

I had a P85 in pearl white and it hid the minor scratches well, but I could see them. When I got my new P85D in pearl white, I had Nanohide ceramic coating applied. This stuff is new to the market. I have never been happier. It is 8 months now and bugs and bird dropping wipe right off. I hand wash with just warm water or a mild detergent. I even get agressive with the drying with little or no worry. Paint look is fantastic. I was at the grocery store and got a minor cart scratch, it self heals in the sun. But the best part is the wheel coating and the glass coating. Brake dust comes right off without scrubbing, I had just the exterior application, but plan to have the wheels removed and the insides coated. Oh and your rear view camera that always gets drops of water on it........never again.

 

[Justin Wamsley]

Take it to a highly qualified detailer to see if it can be fixed first. I'm in Toledo, but I can recommend you to somewhere near you.

 

[Reekdog]

Yes, the paint is like butter. My phantom black Audi S6 (previous car) was just as bad.

We XPELd our P85D on week one, with full opticoat and it did the trick nicely. I have washed the car about 7 times, and I go over the surface inch-by-inch each time, and not a single scratch is on the surface even after 1500 miles and a few small rocks on the HWY. Yes, XPEL is expensive, yes Opticoat is expensive, but at the end of the day the finish directly correlates to my personal contentment with the car (Yes, I am OCD about it.) Personally, if I can keep a car flawless, I am just happy with my car...even as it ages. Once the paint starts to get beat up, I find myself almost angry about it.... and have known myself to trade out cars with the desire to "start over". Yes, I know... I have a problem. ;-)

We even did a wheels-off Opti-coat, and now I do not even have to use wheel cleaner/acid, just plain water and a micro-fiber brush to clean them.
View attachment 89177

Beautiful!

 

[MS16]

I don't even have a thousand miles on my multi-coat red P85D yet and I've already got scratches and swirls everywhere. I've never seen paint that was so fragile and I've not even done much highway driving yet. Yes, I'm going to get it all corrected and then Opticoated and XPELed but it seems like the car literally cannot be left parked without significant after-market paint protection. I really love my new Tesla, but the paint is incredibly disappointing. On a $130,000 car, it is inexcusable.

My Tesla is being handwashed by the same high-end detailing shop that has handwashed my Porches and BMWs for years. Never had this problem before. It's the paint.

I have to agree with the OP that Model S paint is extremely delicate. I'm using the same detailer as with my other cars, but my S continues to get scratches and swirls.

 

[Jean-Claude]

With the talk about coatings and how they can and can't help, I think taking a few minutes to read this piece on the paint coating triangle would be very useful to anyone shopping for a coating:
The Paint Coating Triangle: A Necessity for Owner Satisfaction

It speaks to this topic and specifically touches on what Joe Torbati said about ongoing care.

 

[Aieukl378]

I've had my car going on a year and 11000 miles driven. I've never had it detailed but use Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax when it gets dirty(I only use 1 gal water and a bunch of microfiber towels). It looks awesome when cleaned up and get loads of compliments. Haven't noticed any swirling, scratching or whatever...just shiny goodness.

 

[sledhead36]

This is frustrating on a 100K car - Mercedes has been using ceramic particles in their clear since 2006 to provide increased resistance to scratches and swirls. Maybe this butter paint on the Teslas is a sign of cost cutting?

Absolutely not! It is the California Paint laws!!! Cars manufactured anywhere else can use more durable paints. Complain to the state of California if you wan to blame someone!

 

[rothhammerd]

My Tesla is being handwashed by the same high-end detailing shop that has handwashed my Porches and BMWs for years. Never had this problem before. It's the paint.

Actually, I couldn't believe the responses you got. Hand-washing it yourself with the right supplies is infinitely better than going to "experts" who use traditional buffers and detergents and so-called "microfiber" that is often melted from excessive high-heat washings or used on multiple cars. I was told by my "hand wash" that those swirl marks are "normal" but when I took my car to Tesla and talked with the detailers there, I found out they would NEVER do a traditional "scrub & swirl" on the cars -- everyone out here (in Southern California) is switching to WATERLESS CAR WASH - in part because of the drought, but in part because it is better for the car, and people are slow to catch on. The formulas out today lubricate the dirt in a way that water and detergents don't, but the key is the microfiber towels you use. I actually started buying them in bulk and reselling them, after finding this out back in 2013 with my Model S. The ones I use have a silky feel and a nap about a half an inch thick. It is really important to maintain them properly -- if you wash them in regular detergent or wash or dry them with hot water, you'll fuse the fibers together and they'll become just as scratchy as those used rags they use at the car wash. If you want more information you can check out my website, but really, if you want the car to stay nice, DON'T USE THE CAR WASH. (and also don't ever go through the mechanized one -- it will scuff up your $1,500 rims!

Diana
TeslaChick

 

[FlatSix911]

Actually, I couldn't believe the responses you got. Hand-washing it yourself with the right supplies is infinitely better than going to "experts" who use traditional buffers and detergents and so-called "microfiber" that is often melted from excessive high-heat washings or used on multiple cars. I was told by my "hand wash" that those swirl marks are "normal" but when I took my car to Tesla and talked with the detailers there, I found out they would NEVER do a traditional "scrub & swirl" on the cars -- everyone out here (in Southern California) is switching to WATERLESS CAR WASH - in part because of the drought, but in part because it is better for the car, and people are slow to catch on. The formulas out today lubricate the dirt in a way that water and detergents don't, but the key is the microfiber towels you use. I actually started buying them in bulk and reselling them, after finding this out back in 2013 with my Model S. The ones I use have a silky feel and a nap about a half an inch thick. It is really important to maintain them properly -- if you wash them in regular detergent or wash or dry them with hot water, you'll fuse the fibers together and they'll become just as scratchy as those used rags they use at the car wash. If you want more information you can check out my website, but really, if you want the car to stay nice, DON'T USE THE CAR WASH. (and also don't ever go through the mechanized one -- it will scuff up your $1,500 rims!
Diana
TeslaChick

What is the URL for your website... thanks

 

[Jean-Claude]

Some of the keys to not causing excessive defects in clear coat is:
·Quality wash media(towels, mitts, etc.)
·Using chemicals to breakdown and remove debris (for example: using something like P21S Total Auto Wash as a degreaser and to break down bug marks VS scrubbing)
·Quality shampoo that neither masks defects with oils(which happen to also promote bonding of contaminates) but does provide sufficient lubrication for gliding the media across the paint's surface
·Isolating debris as much as possible in your buckets (for example: multiple bucket wash method along with grit guards and flushing the buckets when needed)
·Wash in straight lines (ever so slight marring will occur over time and using a straight line method to wash will minimize what's visible leading to a much longer frame of time the vehicle looks great)
·A coating will reward this kind of proper care with better results from: a surface that contaminates have a harder time bonding to, surfaces that are easier to clean, a surfaces with more scratch resistance than just paint with a wax or sealant and a surface that has a durable wear and tear membrane that can be reapplied in the future.

The ideal situation is to begin a wash by flushing away any loose debris, follow up with a pre-treat to break down the next most aggressive contaminates, then move onto a hand wash. The nuances can be great but whatever you can do to safely remove debris that will otherwise stand a chance at being driven into your paint is good.

I wrote an article that outlines the major causes of swirl marks and how one can limit damage to modern paints.

What Causes Swirl Marks and Other Defects in Modern Paint?

 

[Judge Joshua]

I don't even have a thousand miles on my multi-coat red P85D yet and I've already got scratches and swirls everywhere. I've never seen paint that was so fragile and I've not even done much highway driving yet. Yes, I'm going to get it all corrected and then Opticoated and XPELed but it seems like the car literally cannot be left parked without significant after-market paint protection. I really love my new Tesla, but the paint is incredibly disappointing. On a $130,000 car, it is inexcusable.

My 2015 P85D was the same. It was pointed out to me by a car wash. I got the car end of March of 2015 by early April I had people telling me I had a shitty paint job.

 

[sorka]

Sold my March 2015 p85d a few months back with 135k miles on it. It was swirl free it's entire life. Never through a car wash. Never washed with rinsed mits. Always washed with 15 microfiber mits one small section at a time.