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Tesla Roof Rack vs Thule Aeroblade

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Will occasionally be doing road-trips in my M3 LR. Looking to purchase a roof rack. Any insight on whether I should buy the oem Tesla roof rack ($400) or the Thule Aeroblade ($300)? Which one causes less wind noise and which one has the least impact on range? Do I need to buy a roof rack fairing with any of these?
 
Assuming the two products are of equal quality, I'd probably buy the one from Tesla. If any problems arise with it, they all come down to being a Tesla issue. If you buy the Aeroblade and have problems, Tesla will tell you the problem is Aeroblade's fault and Aeroblade will blame it on Tesla. You own a car that cost close to $60,000. An extra $100 is a drop in the bucket in comparison.
 
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Yakima says their base Line system will fit the 3: BaseLine System
Comparing the Tesla OEM rack (which is apparently from Yakima or a Yakima-associated company) to the Yakima aftermarket setup shown at Yakima Infolookup

Tesla OEM rack:
  • Less expensive.
  • Probably more aerodynamic.
  • Probably less noise.
Yakima aftermarket rack:
  • Wider spread between bars.
  • Front and rear crossbar at the same height (Tesla OEM rack rear crossbar is noticeably higher).
  • Crossbars stick out beyond the towers (for more accessory mounting space or tie-down of strap wrapping around the tower).
It has been reported that the lock cylinders in the Tesla OEM rack are the same as those used for Yakima aftermarket racks and accessories (so you can match key numbers to reduce the number of keys needed).

The Tesla OEM rack is a better deal for most, but the Yakima aftermarket rack's advantages may be desired if you have long loads (e.g. boats), loads that are best carried level, or loads strapped directly to the crossbars.
 
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It has been reported that the lock cylinders in the Tesla OEM rack are the same as those used for Yakima aftermarket racks and accessories (so you can match key numbers to reduce the number of keys needed).
I can at least confirm that; I have matched all the keys on my Tesla - the OEM crossbars, the bike mounts, the rooftop box, and my hitch mount.
 
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On a car with a normal metal roof, that has either builtin rails or typical screwholes for crossbar mounting exposed merely by lifting up little flaps, I wouldn't hesitate to use reputable aftermarket crossbars from a company like Yakima, if they seemed more to your liking than the OEM crossbar offering.

However with the unusual hidden screwhole arrangement + glass roof on these cars, and the stories I've seen of even Tesla OEM crossbars seemingly triggering roof glass fractures, and sometimes Tesla pushing back on covering that under warranty, I personally wouldn't risk using any aftermarket crossbars on this car, unless I was okay with potentially having to pay for a roof replacement out of pocket / insurance.

I'm actually scared enough that I've contemplated paying Tesla service to install my crossbars the first time I mount them up, so that if it turns out my car has serious fitment issues, it's clearly their fault and not mine. Before this car I would never have imagined paying anyone else just to mount crossbars on my own car!

The OE crossbar mounting for my Model S seems unnecessarily clunky compared to my past Subarus, but at least its mounting points are well separated from the roof glass. The Model 3's setup kind of bugs me to be honest.

This is just my 2c, not expert advice, and not based on actual experience with aftermarket crossbars on these cars.
 
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On a car with a normal metal roof, that has either builtin rails or typical screwholes for crossbar mounting exposed merely by lifting up little flaps, I wouldn't hesitate to use reputable aftermarket crossbars from a company like Yakima, if they seemed more to your liking than the OEM crossbar offering.
The Yakima aftermarket rack is installed with no contact with the glass part of the roof. The rubber pads on the bottom of the towers press against the metal part of the roof, and the clips hook onto the metal drip rails. It does not use the hidden attachment points under the glass. Photo from Yakima Infolookup

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The Yakima aftermarket rack is installed with no contact with the glass part of the roof. The rubber pads on the bottom of the towers press against the metal part of the roof, and the clips hook onto the metal drip rails. It does not use the hidden attachment points under the glass. Photo from Yakima Infolookup

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Ah okay, thanks for that info + including the photo!

I'm generally not a fan of crossbar mounts that grip the bodywork and around door seals, I usually much prefer proper mounting points or rails, but I'm also not a fan of the Model 3's factory mounting points...so pick your poison I guess. 😛
 
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I'm generally not a fan of crossbar mounts that grip the bodywork and around door seals, I usually much prefer proper mounting points or rails, but I'm also not a fan of the Model 3's factory mounting points...so pick your poison I guess. 😛
Unfortunately, many vehicles' roof rack mounting provisions are not very good. Examples include flush rails that are effectively fixed points (when they could have put raised rails or tracks), fixed points that are not level, and fixed points or other rack mountings that are very close together (not good if you have longer loads). The Model 3 hidden mounting points under the glass add the risk of breaking the glass.

For the Yakima aftermarket rack on the Model 3, the clips that hook onto the drip rails appear more secure than most doorframe clips, because the clips are actually hook shaped.
 
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These posts have encouraged me to stick with my diy roof rack for my Model S. I was on the verge of making clips to slide under the glass roof at the designated locations, but for the prudence of those here who shy away from such things. I use my rack for light duty (transporting a kayak, picking up a few 2x4s). The towers rest on the glass and I made clips to anchor to the body above the windows. I shaped the cross bars for better wind flow and lower noise.
Because it looks so diy, I haven’t had any fear of theft.
I made a crude video:
Cheers
 
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