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Tesla says "Gray area for the warranty" and says I drained it [12V covered under warranty - resolved]

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It depends...just like the 96km range may or may not be the range you actually can drive before running out.

If you let the car sleep (turn sentry mode, cabin overheat protection and don't wake up the car with the app/3rd party apps etc.) it will drain in the ballpark of <5% (about 25 km) if you have it parked for 5 days.

If you keep the car awake the entire time (sentry mode etc.) the drain for 5 days parked will be what you experienced.
If I keep the car awake? I am a user.. I thought there is AI. And I did not turn on all those apps etc. Or the car is not really clever or Tesla support has no capacity to support..
 
If you have the ability to charge in your garage then just leave it plugged in and you can set the charge limit lower like 50-70%. Letting it sit for long periods with too low or too high charge is not ideal.

It’s hard to say for now if there is a problem or just some settings/features you didn’t turn off. Sentry mode will use up a lot of battery. Smart summon standby will as well. If you have third party apps to monitor the car like Teslafi or if you alerted constantly checking the car status that would keep the car awake and drain more power. And if you have scheduled departure set up and didn’t turn off the car would still try to precondition everyday that you were gone. Or it could be family members opening doors etc to get things in and out of the car which would wake it up.

Or it could be you had a failing 12V battery to begin with and the car was constantly trying to charge it up with the HV battery causing it to deplete.
Yes your last one. failing battery, not a failing customer, but a failing support experience. They say just transport it here... So they can check and I already know the conclusion.. No not a good feeling about the support!!
 
Also dont understand why there is poor support. I read on their site something like customer first.. If Tesla want to beat German cars it has to look how they support their clients. And does not matter what a model 3 or the most expensive one. If they believe in the quality they should say. We will pickup the car sir, apologies. that this happened.. I now still cannot drive and cannot even enter the car...
What, you haven't been able to get in your car? You do know about prying off the front tow hook cover, right? Then apply a 9V battery to the wire hidden inside. That will pop the frunk. Then you can access the 12V battery to give it a charge, or replace it with a spare 12V if you have one. I keep a lithium car starter inside my frunk just in case.
 
These posts from @RGiezen are a duplicate from this entire thread he created, where this was discussed and explained. The 5% per day if very active things like Sentry and Summon Standby are active, over the course of 6 days would be about 120 km of normal battery reduction. This is normal and expected.

Sentry and Summon Standby were not active. I am a simpel user and used to great support. Before Lexus for example. They would never initially tell their client to find help somewhere else to transport the car to them. They would first help and then discuss with facts. And especially with a brand new car with full warranty.. But here I am left over to external transporting companies etc. No if this is not solved I will sell my Tesla and good luck!
 
And I did not turn on all those apps etc.
I noticed when everyone told you your car ran down because those features like Sentry Mode and Summon Standby were on, you claimed that you weren't using them. But here you are saying you think that because you didn't specifically go and turn them on. I think maybe you don't realize that those features are always on as the default standard setting with every new delivered car. You would need to specifically take action to go turn them OFF if you want them to not be running, like when you are going to leave your car unplugged for a week or two. You seem to not want to listen to the people who are here informing you about how these things work.
 
I noticed when everyone told you your car ran down because those features like Sentry Mode and Summon Standby were on, you claimed that you weren't using them. But here you are saying you think that because you didn't specifically go and turn them on. I think maybe you don't realize that those features are always on as the default standard setting with every new delivered car. You would need to specifically take action to go turn them OFF if you want them to not be running, like when you are going to leave your car unplugged for a week or two. You seem to not want to listen to the people who are here informing you about how these things work.
Yeah I choose Tesla because I thought they had an advance on AI... Rocky, where do you have the wisdom from that the settings ar on by default. I hope for you that you never need their support..
 
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Yeah I choose Tesla because I thought they had an advance on AI... Rocky, where do you have the wisdom from that the settings ar on by default. I hope for you that you never need their support..
There are separate checkboxes to turn off sentry at home and at work, and they are not checked by default. I only know that from my experience when the car was new.
 
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Does anyone know whether Sentry and Summon Standby turn off automatically when the car reaches 20%, or do they stay on if the car started above 20%?

Maybe it was already discussed, but my understanding is that Tesla would disable all these draining features if the battery reaches 20%, even if they were active at SOC above 20% initially. I could be wrong as I have not studied this behavior.

Another possibility (which I have seen) is a marginal failure of the 12V, which WOULD lead to high HV battery drain rates. In this case, when the 12V is found to be in trouble, if possible (meaning marginal function of the 12V still exists), the car will close the contactors permanently and put the car in idle mode, resulting in very high drain (probably around 2.5-5kWh per day, at 100-200W). This prevents problems with not being able to open the car doors, etc. The car just behaves normally (except more snappy than normal because the contactors are always closed).

I’m not saying that is what happened here. But I have a hard time explaining this scenario because these feature drain issues should (?) automatically turn off below 20%. Unless that isn’t what happens. If that is what happens, then the only possibility is a car that is not sleeping (due to third-party apps (had a clear bug with a third-party app recently reported) or a failing 12V or some other issue that causes the car to not sleep).

Anyway, one question, and one possibility.

It’s not clear the OP wants to understand what happened though.
 
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is that one of the vehicle’s doors weren’t fully closed, therefore the vehicle ran its battery down sitting there with HVAC running.
Yes, and I thought even in that case the car would now turn off, eventually, since nobody is detected in the seats, but I haven't studied that behavior closely, so I could certainly be wrong and it may be that the HVAC just keeps running (it certainly used to). Seems like an obvious hole for Tesla to cover in any case if it's not already. To me it seems like the only thing they really can't cover are 1) willful use of things like preheat, etc. by the owner actively from the app and 2) something that prevents the car from sleeping (due to the (arguably) ridiculously high idle mode power consumption). Everything else should be idiot proof. Not saying it is, but it should be.


Reviewing the OP: I actually think that with the evidence presented, that the 12V battery went bad, and that's the reason for why the car drained from 100km to 0km over 5 days. It's hard to say without further evidence of the sequence (which we will never get from the OP), but certainly that is a completely consistent reading of the facts presented. (I don't understand how Tesla saw that Sentry Mode was on since I believe it cannot be but maybe I'm wrong.) It's a Tesla said / he said situation (Tesla would have to review the logs to see whether the battery went bad first or went bad because the HV pack went to 0% (for reasons that no one here has been able to explain)). Having had a graceful 12V failure, this is definitely what would happen if the car gracefully detected a problem with the 12V - it would drain the main pack to 0% with alacrity, and then the car would become completely unavailable except through the external 12V harness. If that's what happened, Tesla should cover the costs as goodwill, since the owner did not actively ignore the warning in this case (Tesla could identify whether the doors were opened after the failure was detected, though they may not have that level of detail, but anyway at some point you just have to cover the failure and believe the customer if they state a certain sequence occurred - not clear what the OP's motivations are here of course, but I just mean in a general sense). Of course, if the customer had just plugged the car in in the garage this wouldn't have happened. But that would be victim blaming - I don't always plug in my car, though I always would with 100km remaining if I remembered. But this could easily happen if you left your car in the garage with 300km remaining and then went on vacation for three weeks (leaving the car unplugged for safety or whatever, or just because it makes little sense/ isn't your habit to plug in a car with 300rkm of energy in the battery, and doing so for three weeks would be no issue at all (would typically result in only 35-40km of drain with current software versions)) and you were unlucky enough to have a 12V battery failure detected. And there would be nothing you could do.
 
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Is this a car with the lead-acid or the new lithium ion accessory battery? I'd be worried if it were the second.

If it's lead-acid, I think this episode shows why Tesla might have changed to a lithium ion low voltage battery even though no doubt it's substantially more expensive to them (guess $40 vs $200 which is huge in parts costs): there are many service calls for 12V related problems, much more than a conventional ICE car, because of the discharge patterns and strange symptoms.

In a conventional ICE car the 12V failure shows up early, and clearly, as failure to start, and everyone knows the symptoms and any local tow truck, AAA or low level mechanic shop can fix it. Customer isn't upset at manufacturer.
 
Another possibility (which I have seen) is a marginal failure of the 12V, which WOULD lead to high HV battery drain rates. In this case, when the 12V is found to be in trouble, if possible (meaning marginal function of the 12V still exists), the car will close the contactors permanently and put the car in idle mode, resulting in very high drain (probably around 2.5-5kWh per day, at 100-200W).
I'm no expert on this, but it seems like this should be very easy to detect with software and have the car report the 12V needs replacing...and this detection logic would be super important to have because otherwise your car would never sleep.
 
I'm no expert on this, but it seems like this should be very easy to detect with software and have the car report the 12V needs replacing...and this detection logic would be super important to have because otherwise your car would never sleep.

Yes, it already does exactly this. I suspect this detection and warning method only fails when the 12V suddenly catastrophically fails (which would mean the contactors could not be closed). The screen provides the error messages as in the original post here. At that point the car never sleeps until you replace the battery, and the car clearly warns that standby power consumption will be very high.

I had a graceful failure of my 12V a few months back with these warnings - it was no big deal and they just came out and replaced the battery the next day. I didn't tempt fate by trying to drive anywhere, but the vehicle remained completely drivable. But yes, with the car not plugged in, it would rapidly drain the main pack (15 miles a day, give or take) in that mode.
 
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Only way I see this thing draining to 0%, without sentry and cabin overheat protection actively on, is that one of the vehicle’s doors weren’t fully closed, therefore the vehicle ran its battery down sitting there with HVAC running.
HVAC will time out after a certain amount of time (maybe 30 minutes, IIRC) even if you were in the seat with the doors open. I am also in the camp that believes that the 12v battery failed and the car didn't go to sleep in order to keep it charged up, which ended up draining the high voltage battery.

OP is concerned that doing anything to the car (like jump starting it or replacing the 12v battery) will affect their warranty, when the only thing affecting their warranty is leaving the high voltage battery at 0%. I agree that Tesla service should be more helpful, though.

Here is a nice, official animation and instruction on how to pop open the frunk with no power Do It Yourself - Model 3
And here is another that shows how to jump start the 12v battery Do It Yourself - Model 3
 
UPDATE!!

Finally we call the help of an external mobile service. They charged the V12 battery and we could charge the car again. But there were still errors re the v12 battery.

We made an appointment at Tesla service. They checked and replaced the battery under warranty. Great job at the end. I already forgot about the Tesla service manager who did not wanted to send a mobile support to fix it by Tesla from the start. Could have saved me a lot of frustration. Because the Car is excellent!
 
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UPDATE!!

Finally we call the help of an external mobile service. They charged the V12 battery and we could charge the car again. But there were still errors re the v12 battery.

We made an appointment at Tesla service. They checked and replaced the battery under warranty. Great job at the end. I already forgot about the Tesla service manager who did not wanted to send a mobile support to fix it by Tesla from the start. Could have saved me a lot of frustration. Because the Car is excellent!
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