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Tesla Selling the Tow Hitch at the shop

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I would assume the Tesla one with the software would prevent the lift gate from opening with the inside controls and disable rear parking sensors when something is plugged into the connector. I would plug the 4 to 7 pin adapter into my Audi’s when I hade my bike rack on.
 
If I will only being using the tow hitch for a bicycle carrier, is there any reason to purchase my MY with a tow hitch or just install the aftermarket one for 1/3 the price?
Obviously more cost-effective in short run to get the $300 job, but remember that any galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals caused by the hitch will invalidate any warranty claim if you do get severe corrosion.

This has been an issue in MS, and has supposedly been remediated by the hitch manufacturers. Just beware of that potential risk.
 
interesting. Looks like BMW created a problem, then created their own solution. How nice of them.

think I’ll stick with the universal 2” receiver hitch.
What problem?
My last 3 cars had retractable tow bars, it's nothing new.
You either press a button and they swing out and you click them in place or on newer cars they fold out completely electric. But you don't need to fiddle with plastic covers anymore, which is a big plus..

Also those bike carriers are very much standard in Europe. Those tow bar balls have been standardized for the last 50 years or so, so anything fits. I even use a 20 year old VW/Thule bike rack on my BMW, as you don't need a BMW bike rack on a BMW, just any bike rack for those standard European tow bars.
It all fits - bike racks, mobile homes, horse trailers, boat trailers, etc..

I don't even know what an "universal 2” receiver hitch" is, as we don't have inches around here, never had.
 
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What problem?
My last 3 cars had retractable tow bars, it's nothing new.
You either press a button and they swing out and you click them in place or on newer cars they fold out completely electric. But you don't need to fiddle with plastic covers anymore, which is a big plus..

Also those bike carriers are very much standard in Europe. Those tow bar balls have been standardized for the last 50 years or so, so anything fits. I even use a 20 year old VW/Thule bike rack on my BMW, as you don't need a BMW bike rack on a BMW, just any bike rack for those standard European tow bars.
It all fits - bike racks, mobile homes, horse trailers, boat trailers, etc..

I don't even know what an "universal 2” receiver hitch" is, as we don't have inches around here, never had.

gotcha. I didn’t realize how common those are in Europe. Just a difference in regional standards it appears.

I would assume whatever tow hitch the European model 3 has will also be on the model y
 
If you need to tow more with the 20" wheels then you would need to swap out tires. Not sure of the load rating on the wheels. Pirelli makes Sottozero and Scorpion Verde tires in the correct 20" size and higher load rating. The Goodyear F1 A/S tires that come on the 20" Induction wheels are mediocre "all season" tires at best. At least that's what I gather from the general ratings out there and looking at them with my own eyes. No way these will be adequate when snow flakes start falling here. The Scorpions would have been a much better pick for the car, IMO. Then again, I say the same thing for the 20" wheels on the Model X and happily ran a set of Scorpion Verde A/S tires on our X for over 2 years and 38K miles and they still looked good when we sold it last week. The original factory Continentals were crap and made it barely over 20K miles.
 
For those considering towing with the aftermarket hitch, here's an excerpt from the owner's manual:
WARNING: Under no circumstances should you exit Trailer Mode when towing a trailer. Doing so can cause serious injury.
Here's another:
WARNING: Use only the electrical connections designed by Tesla. Do not attempt to directly splice or attempt to connect a trailer’s electrical wiring using any other method. Doing so can damage the vehicle's electrical system and cause malfunctions.
 
Obviously more cost-effective in short run to get the $300 job, but remember that any galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals caused by the hitch will invalidate any warranty claim if you do get severe corrosion.

This has been an issue in MS, and has supposedly been remediated by the hitch manufacturers. Just beware of that potential risk.

Based on this i am not taking a chance with aftermarket...just ordered the Tesla one to be installed at local SC. Yea its an extra 700 or so but in the grand scheme of things..not having an issue or at least hoping Tesla is responsible if there is an issue is worth the extra $ considering I’m in for 69k on the Y..... :)
 
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Question about the "4-pin pigtail connector":
Trailer Brakes
When towing a loaded trailer that weighs more than 1650 lbs (750 kg), Tesla recommends that the trailer be equipped with its own brake system adequate for the weight of the trailer. Ensure compliance with local regulations. A brake controller must be purchased separately. Follow these steps to connect a brake controller:
1. Connect the wiring on the brake controller to the appropriate locations on the 4-pin pigtail connector included with your vehicle.

Does anyone know where this pigtail connector is located? I briefly pulled the cover off, and of course there's the lighting connector, but this pigtail?

(Not that I'm ever going to tow a >1650 lb trailer, but still curious about this mysterious pigtail.)
It's in the manual now, at least the one shown in the car. It's down near the driver's let leg, but I haven't attempted to actually find it yet. Pictures are provided in the manual.
 
It's in the manual now, at least the one shown in the car. It's down near the driver's let leg, but I haven't attempted to actually find it yet. Pictures are provided in the manual.
Obviously, I haven't towed a trailer with brakes and it's unlikely I ever will. But I guess my understanding of trailer brakes is very old school (brake light on, trailer brake on).
 
They generally are more than that. They have a proportional sense that apply the brakes in response to the amount of braking used.
Many hydraulic add-ons have a unit with a lever that you can use to manually apply a little braking to the trailer, especially good if it starts fishtailing. A little tap brings it back inline.
 
They generally are more than that. They have a proportional sense that apply the brakes in response to the amount of braking used.
Many hydraulic add-ons have a unit with a lever that you can use to manually apply a little braking to the trailer, especially good if it starts fishtailing. A little tap brings it back inline.
So how does the controller by the dash communicate with the trailer brakes? Inquiring minds want to know!
 
I'm assuming that's the job of the additional plug. I suspect that it's a pretty simple, higher voltage on connector = additional braking. It's electric. As opposed to semis, which use pneumatic pressure.
But that's my question: there's no mention of an additional connector by the hitch itself. Is the modulated voltage for the trailer brake on one of the existing connector?