Tesla Service 2013 Tesla model s 60 Rear brake pads are seized in calipers service estimate 1363

[ohaq]

Hi, long time haven't used the forms since the beginning of time. Recently got the screen changed for 1500. Just wanted an opinion if the labor cost look okay in the attached document.

Just looking at the cost i was wondering as the brake pads are seized. When rotor and pads are replaced wont the caliper come out as well when replacing the pads? Is 148 labor charge for removing and replacing the caliper each side normal? And 200 to replace the rotors and pads. Seems like they would be overlapping each other because all of it is being done at one time.

fronts still have 50% pads left. So wondering if i should be just getting the parts and going to a local shop? any recommendations?

 

[beatle]

Can't get the rotor off without removing the caliper, so if the rotor replacement is indeed included in the $203.50, they're double dipping on the caliper replacement.

Brakes are not magic on a Tesla. You can get a good set of rotors, pads, and hardware for the front or rear for under $270 and have an independent shop install them for you, or just DIY them. There are a few decent videos on YouTube on the process.

 

[mswlogo]

Removing caliper to get at rotors vs removing caliper to replace the caliper is completely different.

Replacing caliper gets into disconnecting brake lines and bleeding. Removing caliper to just get at rotors involves none of that.

You could argue the other way that if replacing caliper then doing rotor is partially done but the bulk of doing rotors is not dismounting the caliper.

 

[beatle]

Right, but they're not replacing the calipers here., just pads and rotors.

Edit: maybe you were agreeing wth me? Either way, I would never take my car to Tesla for brakes, even if they're not double dipping the caliper labor.

 

[mswlogo]

I would take my $120K car to the Tesla for brakes in a heart beat.

Don’t want some aftermarket crap in there.

Want everything done by the book so as not to void anything else.

Not exactly sure what work was done but I see “replacing caliper” in the first post.

Some brake systems need computer access to reset them.

 

[HarleyW]

Its a 10 model year old car. $120,000 sure.

Find a local shop, brakes are brakes.

 

[beatle]

I would take my $120K car to the Tesla for brakes in a heart beat.

Don’t want some aftermarket crap in there.

Want everything done by the book so as not to void anything else.

Not exactly sure what work was done but I see “replacing caliper” in the first post.

Some brake systems need computer access to reset them.

There is no caliper part listed. Calipers are expensive, even aftermarket ones. I'd expect the estimate to be well over $2k if they were installing new calipers, and they would have included brake fluid in the parts list as well.

You do you, but "aftermarket crap" can often be better than OEM, and it is often a lot less expensive. My coated rotors don't have rust around the hubs like their OEM counterparts, and my ceramic pads perform better and dust less than the originals. In some cases an OEM replacement is the only/best option, but if you care about price or performance, It is best to do research on the parts being replaced than simply jumping to the conclusion that the OEM could do no wrong. Brakes are a wear item and Tesla doesn't warranty them anyway. There is also nothing to "reset."

 

[mswlogo]

OP said “replaced caliper” and “replaced rotor”.

Yes, you can get better aftermarket parts if you typically DIY. Whole other (off) topic. You also risk voiding other parts of the car. I’ve seen warranty issues on suspension from running non OEM rims !!!

It was suggested going to Joe’s Garage around the corner. To save $500.00. I suggest that’s a really bad idea.

I do my own brakes with OEM parts.

 

[vcor]

Brakes are a wear item and Tesla doesn't warranty them anyway. There is also nothing to "reset."

Looking at the latest Tesla warranty, only the brake pads are not under the warranty. Rotors and calipers appear to be in the 50K mile/4 year warranty (as they are not excluded). Even then, Tesla might replace the pads under warranty if it can be shown to be a manufacturing defect as they should last far beyond the warranty period. Of course, a 2012 S is no longer in warranty!.

 

[Crutonius]

Unless it somehow involves the regenerative part of the brakes this isn't anything special. Any sufficiently adventurous third party repair should be able to give you a quote.

 

[ohaq]

Thank you all for your inputs. I'll check with some local shops as well.
The pdf does say remove replace calliper.
Ill message Tesla as well to see if they can do sny discounts. They did say this needs to be Done in shop and not mobile service.

Just fyi, Brakes being replaced after 98000 miles on a 80k car not 120k.

 

[ohaq]

Removing caliper to get at rotors vs removing caliper to replace the caliper is completely different.

Replacing caliper gets into disconnecting brake lines and bleeding. Removing caliper to just get at rotors involves none of that.

You could argue the other way that if replacing caliper then doing rotor is partially done but the bulk of doing rotors is not dismounting the caliper.

Based and this comment tesla could probably knock off $200. Lets see.

 

[snellenr]

This doesn't look particularly out of line - the *main* repair is to replace the rear brake rotors, which they're estimating at taking about an hour @ their $185/hr labor rate ($205 labor). They'd need to unbolt the calipers and move them out of the way to remove the rotor, and they're going to replace the pads as long as they messing around with them since they're probably the originals (like my 2014). They've estimated that chore separately @ 45 minutes for each caliper, which amounts to about 20 minutes to take them off and then another 20 minutes to re-install them around the new rotor and install the new pads.

Those bolts have been sitting there untouched for 9 years, so it could be quite a chore to get them moving... especially in a Michigan car.

 

[ohaq]

After searching for parts in Parts Catalog
it seems that these are sort of duplicates, why 2 entries for brake pads
REAR BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT KIT - MANDO(1097416-00-B) 1.00 175.00 //duplicate invalid entry this is for different year
REAR BRAKE PAD SERVICE KIT(1068331-00-B) 1.00 195.00

Haven't gotten a chance to check with local mechanics on labor. I can get the parts for $507 (evpartsonline) vs from tesla at around 600 if pads were duplicate entry in estimate else $766 as shown in first post.

Tesla Model S Brakes

The Tesla Model S brakes collection comes with a range of brake options to choose from. The collection includes standard regenerative brakes, as well as optional performance brakes and ultra-high performance brakes.

evpartsonline.com

probably cheaper available from www.rockauto.com as well.

I've changed the brakes and rotors once on a 2007 hyundai elantra once took me a day as I got into complications with rotten/broken screw etc.

Have not made up my mind yet, Still researching....

 

[beatle]

I'll say that doing my front brakes took me a lot longer than I expected for a fixed caliper. My Miata has fixed calipers now and I can do a pad change on that car in just a few minutes. It takes longer to get the car up and R/R the wheels than it does to swap the pads. However my pads on the Tesla were seized, and I spent a bit of time cleaning up the corrosion I found and lubricating things so it took me a few hours and several 4 letter words. Since you're in Michigan, I'd expect a similar experience (mine was a Chicago car).

There are some jobs I just won't do again myself (like a clutch) but even a challenging brake job is still pretty simple, especially if you're doing it in a garage with the right tools. Hit the fasteners and pins with some Kroil or PB Blaster the day before as a little insurance, watch a video or two to see what it's like, and start early. You'll get it done.

 

[ohaq]

Update

Finally was able to get both rotors, brake pads and parking brake pads replaced for the rears. It was a rollercoaster ride. Im going to go through all the issues that i encountered, I thought I knew everything before starting but little did I know. At least I saved 800 with better brakes and rotors installed. Best part now I can do the same even service the brakes on the model 3 and save a trip.

I got most parts from RockAuto silicone for grease etc from amazon etc.

This is going to become a long story so I am going to try and just mention what went wrong so that others can avoid.

1st mistake did not put the car in tow mode.
I put the car on jack stands and chocks so that car did not move on the front. Put the car in jack mode but did not put in tow mode. I was able to get the caliper off, pins came out easily, took me couple of hours to hammer the parking brake out. (Tow mode would have released the brake).

The parking brake pins just did not want to come out a lot of hammering but just didn't budge, wd40 for 24 hours helped, got the pins bent and out. Parking pins are not the same as the Brake pins. Parking brake pins not easy to find online

old rotor removed and replaced, screw in rotor came out easily. Had issues in the other one and had to drill to take the other one out.

once parking brake pads were replaced, I tried to put them back on the new rotor. as the car was not in tow mode the parking brake would not go in. After googling found out that tow mode will help.

2nd mistake, Putting in tow mode while main brake was not on rotors. I pressed the brake pedal to put in tow mode. I pressed it to far which caused the open brake to close and one of the pistons came out and oil started leaking. First thought time to get it towed. But YouTube is amazing

tried to put the piston back in, not easy so ordered used caliper from ebay for $140 also ordered caliper seals from rock auto for 20 as a back up plan. once I get the seal in will try to sell the caliper on ebay .

Put the new caliper on, now had to bleed the brake fluid to get any air out as the caliper got disconnected from the car, that went smoothly.

When i put the car in tow mode some fault came on the screen and the parking brake closed and would not open/release.

I had to disconnect the parking brake, there were 4 pins in the connector was able to connect them to 12V and open the parking brake. if you switch the wires it just changes the rotation. Use the first and last pin in connector to + and - terminal.

took almost 7 days to get all this done because had to wait for the new caliper.

On the 2nd wheel the issue I encountered was the bolt got stripped when taking the router out, which I was able to take out after drilling, lots of videos online. I then wanted to bleed the brake when i tried to open the bleeder valve the valve just broke without opening. With 100,000 miles things get rusty and not easy to repair. I ended up not bleeding as it was not needed this caliper was never disconnected from the brake line. I have a broken bleeder valve now.

The rest went smoothly, this time made sure that car was in tow mode. I torqued everything to specs, I'll list them below as well. For one of the parking bolts was hard to get a torque wrench in.

Item Torque	Nm	ft-lb
tire bolts	175	129
main brake caliper	120	88.5
parking brake caliper	57	42
Brake hose to the caliper	42	31
rotor screw	17	12.5

here are some the links that I had saved while working on the brakes.

Removing Brake Calipers on a Tesla (Brembo)
How to do a Complete Brake Flush and Bleed

 

[Vip]

Update

Finally was able to get both rotors, brake pads and parking brake pads replaced for the rears. It was a rollercoaster ride. Im going to go through all the issues that i encountered, I thought I knew everything before starting but little did I know. At least I saved 800 with better brakes and rotors installed. Best part now I can do the same even service the brakes on the model 3 and save a trip.

I got most parts from RockAuto silicone for grease etc from amazon etc.

This is going to become a long story so I am going to try and just mention what went wrong so that others can avoid.

1st mistake did not put the car in tow mode.
I put the car on jack stands and chocks so that car did not move on the front. Put the car in jack mode but did not put in tow mode. I was able to get the caliper off, pins came out easily, took me couple of hours to hammer the parking brake out. (Tow mode would have released the brake).

The parking brake pins just did not want to come out a lot of hammering but just didn't budge, wd40 for 24 hours helped, got the pins bent and out. Parking pins are not the same as the Brake pins. Parking brake pins not easy to find online

old rotor removed and replaced, screw in rotor came out easily. Had issues in the other one and had to drill to take the other one out.

once parking brake pads were replaced, I tried to put them back on the new rotor. as the car was not in tow mode the parking brake would not go in. After googling found out that tow mode will help.

2nd mistake, Putting in tow mode while main brake was not on rotors. I pressed the brake pedal to put in tow mode. I pressed it to far which caused the open brake to close and one of the pistons came out and oil started leaking. First thought time to get it towed. But YouTube is amazing

tried to put the piston back in, not easy so ordered used caliper from ebay for $140 also ordered caliper seals from rock auto for 20 as a back up plan. once I get the seal in will try to sell the caliper on ebay .

Put the new caliper on, now had to bleed the brake fluid to get any air out as the caliper got disconnected from the car, that went smoothly.

When i put the car in tow mode some fault came on the screen and the parking brake closed and would not open/release.

I had to disconnect the parking brake, there were 4 pins in the connector was able to connect them to 12V and open the parking brake. if you switch the wires it just changes the rotation. Use the first and last pin in connector to + and - terminal.

took almost 7 days to get all this done because had to wait for the new caliper.

On the 2nd wheel the issue I encountered was the bolt got stripped when taking the router out, which I was able to take out after drilling, lots of videos online. I then wanted to bleed the brake when i tried to open the bleeder valve the valve just broke without opening. With 100,000 miles things get rusty and not easy to repair. I ended up not bleeding as it was not needed this caliper was never disconnected from the brake line. I have a broken bleeder valve now.

The rest went smoothly, this time made sure that car was in tow mode. I torqued everything to specs, I'll list them below as well. For one of the parking bolts was hard to get a torque wrench in.

Item Torque	Nm	ft-lb
tire bolts	175	129
main brake caliper	120	88.5
parking brake caliper	57	42
Brake hose to the caliper	42	31
rotor screw	17	12.5

here are some the links that I had saved while working on the brakes.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc

Nicely done. Glad you kept at it. I replace almost everything on my 2013 a couple of years ago. The only thing I didn't replace were the rear calipers and parking brake pads.
Had some trouble myself. Couldn't get the front pins out for the life of me. Everything was so rusted. Both Front calipers were seized.
Took me about 4 days.
Now I lubricate everything twice a year when I change out my winter tires.