Tesla Toolbox V2

[GazMav]

Hi All,

I'm about to renew my toolbox subscription so I can use toolbox but I noticed they no longer supply Toolbox V2 as a download and I know the V3 online version has limited abilities.

Does anyone have an older copy of V2 they would be happy to share? I'm hoping you can still login with a renewed subscription.
I'm happy to pay a small amount for your troubles. I did have a version on my old PC last time I used it but long gone.

Thanks,

Gaz

 

[zanary]

The only binary I have is called "toolbox-2.1.81-win32.exe", but not too sure if this was the latest 2.x version or if there were later one. My subscription has ended, so I can't get past the login box, and I assume once you login, it will recommend an upgrade to the latest 2.x version if there is one later than this.

 

[GazMav]

The only binary I have is called "toolbox-2.1.81-win32.exe", but not too sure if this was the latest 2.x version or if there were later one. My subscription has ended, so I can't get past the login box, and I assume once you login, it will recommend an upgrade to the latest 2.x version if there is one later than this.

Thanks @zanary , I've managed to find that one but appreciate it.

 

[MobileClimate]

The only binary I have is called "toolbox-2.1.81-win32.exe", but not too sure if this was the latest 2.x version or if there were later one. My subscription has ended, so I can't get past the login box, and I assume once you login, it will recommend an upgrade to the latest 2.x version if there is one later than this.

No that's the latest and final release there will be no more updates to toolbox 2 there getting rid of it and everything will be transferring to toolbox 3 ..when you use toolbox 2 with the latest firmware a lot of operations dont work right.. also it eliminates people hacking toobox 2

 

[BostonBurley]

No that's the latest and final release there will be no more updates to toolbox 2 there getting rid of it and everything will be transferring to toolbox 3 ..when you use toolbox 2 with the latest firmware a lot of operations dont work right.. also it eliminates people hacking toobox 2

My air suspension failed, has been replaced 100%, no leaks no issues. But the air compressor behavior is weird, filling and purging until a thermal limit. Leveling sensors are fine.
Everyone tells me to clear stored fault codes in SAS ECU. However, I took the car to Tesla SC, two different ones, actually, and bc the suspension components aren’t 100% oem, from rear camber arms, toe arms, air struts, etc., I’m refused service. I mean, they do charge me. They just don’t do a single thing for me.

It’s come down to finding a way to clear codes on my own, and everyone says I need Tesla toolbox V2 and a cable. Cable is easy, toolbox is basically impossible. Can’t find it and even if I do, it sounds like it has lost functionality.

In Pasadena area there has got to be shops with the equipment to do this.

 

[zanary]

You are in in SoCal, so see if Unplugged Performance (I believe they are authorized to have access to all Tesla tools and software).

 

[MobileClimate]

Anyone that’s willing to pay$ 500 30 days or $3000 a year is authorized to use toolbox 3 ..and if you look at the tesla shop rate of $220 that’s not that bad of a price….but remember that tesla is logging everything you do and a tesla tech could remotely connect to your car and see exactly what your doing .which could void a warranty

 

[MobileClimate]

My air suspension failed, has been replaced 100%, no leaks no issues. But the air compressor behavior is weird, filling and purging until a thermal limit. Leveling sensors are fine.
Everyone tells me to clear stored fault codes in SAS ECU. However, I took the car to Tesla SC, two different ones, actually, and bc the suspension components aren’t 100% oem, from rear camber arms, toe arms, air struts, etc., I’m refused service. I mean, they do charge me. They just don’t do a single thing for me.

It’s come down to finding a way to clear codes on my own, and everyone says I need Tesla toolbox V2 and a cable. Cable is easy, toolbox is basically impossible. Can’t find it and even if I do, it sounds like it has lost functionality.

In Pasadena area there has got to be shops with the equipment to do this.

You might wanna check the air compressor relay and the suction hose inlet is not kinked

My air suspension failed, has been replaced 100%, no leaks no issues. But the air compressor behavior is weird, filling and purging until a thermal limit. Leveling sensors are fine.
Everyone tells me to clear stored fault codes in SAS ECU. However, I took the car to Tesla SC, two different ones, actually, and bc the suspension components aren’t 100% oem, from rear camber arms, toe arms, air struts, etc., I’m refused service. I mean, they do charge me. They just don’t do a single thing for me.

It’s come down to finding a way to clear codes on my own, and everyone says I need Tesla toolbox V2 and a cable. Cable is easy, toolbox is basically impossible. Can’t find it and even if I do, it sounds like it has lost functionality.

In Pasadena area there has got to be shops with the equipment to do this.

 

[BostonBurley]

You might wanna check the air compressor relay and the suction hose inlet is not kinked

View attachment 820688

Yes, I began with Suncore air struts to replace oem. Lots of issues. Returned the front set, replaced with refurbished oem in front, also swapped one rear Suncore with rear oem, didn’t help. Had leaks I had to figure out, they’re all figured out. Tried multiple valve boxes, two different compressors.
The compressor is pushing more than 150psi into the air tank, purging down to 130, then trying again. This also happens at 90psi to 120psi.
I’ll gladly look into installing my old oem struts in the back for all oem, but I think clearing faults is going to be the ticket.

 

[MobileClimate]

To isolate the compressor from the individual springs you tap into the compressor discharge line and get a nitrogen bottle to tests for leaks ..it's just a 1/4 air brake line which is super common on truck brake air systems then you can test each spring....you might have check valve leaking by i dont think resetting the codes is going help

 

[buckets0fun]

To isolate the compressor from the individual springs you tap into the compressor discharge line and get a nitrogen bottle to tests for leaks ..it's just a 1/4 air brake line which is super common on truck brake air systems then you can test each spring....you might have check valve leaking by i dont think resetting the codes is going help

while you’re in there, you might as well just T the line off and add a schrader valve to use an M12/M18/any portable air compressor. Saves money to fill and the weight of a nitrogen tank.

This will come in handy if your compressor ever kicks the bucket, you’ll be able to use any airline meant to fill tires.

 

[MobileClimate]

while you’re in there, you might as well just T the line off and add a schrader valve to use an M12/M18/any portable air compressor. Saves money to fill and the weight of a nitrogen tank.

This will come in handy if your compressor ever kicks the bucket, you’ll be able to use any airline meant to fill tires.They use the

nitrogen is used to remove moisture from the inlet filter and from the system just like leak checking an ac system on car ...I dont think can use a reg compressor because that compressor goes up to 17 bar which is almost 250 psi

 

[buckets0fun]

nitrogen is used to remove moisture from the inlet filter and from the system just like leak checking an ac system on car ...I dont think can use a reg compressor because that compressor goes up to 17 bar which is almost 250 psi

The factory air compressor introduces moisture into the lines, it will be fine. You won’t need 250 to lift the X in an emergency, you’ll need ~100-125psi, at least in our experience the M18 air compressor will also handle it and a diesel repair shop should be able to assist with higher pressure. (just don’t get the coal rolled all over the X, I hear it’s recently labeled a hate crime against Ev’s)

 

[MobileClimate]

The factory air compressor introduces moisture into the lines, it will be fine. You won’t need 250 to lift the X in an emergency, you’ll need ~100-125psi, at least in our experience the M18 air compressor will also handle it and a diesel repair shop should be able to assist with higher pressure. (just don’t get the coal rolled all over the X, I hear it’s recently labeled a hate crime against Ev’s)

I'm never driving slow enough to be coal rolled..most dudes that coal roal dont have a high enough iq and ignore the science to realize that AC/DC is better than diesel

 

[buckets0fun]

I'm never driving slow enough to be coal rolled..most dudes that coal roal dont have a high enough iq and ignore the science to realize that AC/DC is better than diesel

You understand that soot is a byproduct of diesel powered vehicles accelerating, right? Lol

Back to the fill valve topic, isn’t it odd how tesla installs schrader valves on air suspension equipped cars? Fill Valve - Air Suspension (Retrofit)

 

[MobileClimate]

Its just like an air conditioning system .,..its the same principle of not allowing moisture to eat at the valve seats ...the inlet filter is used to remove moisture from the air outside ...the nitrogen is used to regerante the filter and for leak checking springs

 

[jaselakers95]

My air suspension failed, has been replaced 100%, no leaks no issues. But the air compressor behavior is weird, filling and purging until a thermal limit. Leveling sensors are fine.
Everyone tells me to clear stored fault codes in SAS ECU. However, I took the car to Tesla SC, two different ones, actually, and bc the suspension components aren’t 100% oem, from rear camber arms, toe arms, air struts, etc., I’m refused service. I mean, they do charge me. They just don’t do a single thing for me.

It’s come down to finding a way to clear codes on my own, and everyone says I need Tesla toolbox V2 and a cable. Cable is easy, toolbox is basically impossible. Can’t find it and even if I do, it sounds like it has lost functionality.

In Pasadena area there has got to be shops with the equipment to do this.

Any luck getting toolbox V2?

 

[GazMav]

Any luck getting toolbox V2?

Subscriptions don't seem to be working with V2 now, it looks like it checks for a VPN connection on startup which makes sense for third party approved shops who could still use it.
So basically, we are screwed.
T-Diag or T-Can for third party tools, or learn how UDS works and use a cheap USB to Can adapter to send the commands, it's finding the commands which is the tricky bit.

 

[BostonBurley]

Subscriptions don't seem to be working with V2 now, it looks like it checks for a VPN connection on startup which makes sense for third party approved shops who could still use it.
So basically, we are screwed.
T-Diag or T-Can for third party tools, or learn how UDS works and use a cheap USB to Can adapter to send the commands, it's finding the commands which is the tricky bit.

I’ve been told the toolbox 3 software has most of the legacy options, updated as recently as last week. Also, I’m unsure if v2 is still supported to even work since they haven’t offered it for so long. I ordered the cable and am hoping to have someone remotely do it with their paid subscription while I’m plugged in to the car on the laptop.

 

[biotour]

if you guys want to install v2 here's the link. i copied this from their site a few years ago when it was free to d/l.

toolbox-2.1.81-win32.exe

drive.google.com