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Tesla wall connector gen3 overheating fix

I am not an electrical engineer or electrician so take this with a grain of salt. But I deal with three phase and single phase power at my business. I have done a ton of work here. I have run into wires and breakers running hot. Burning up relays, etc.

If your 6AWG wire and breaker are getting hot, something is definitely wrong. I believe that generally means the resistance it too high. In my experience it has always been a loose connection.

I still believe something with Gen 3 is undersized. Why? Because I have stated elsewhere in this thread that either i have gotten completely lucky or my tendency to oversize things. Basically 6AWG should be big enough but what if 6AWG just causes enough resistance that the undersizing of something in the wall connector is causing the resistance to just go over limits.

I ordered my two Gen 3 units in Jan/Feb timeframe. So definitely not a new unit.

I have never once had an issue charging either of my units. So I wonder why? Is it I am lucky? No, I think it is due to the fact that I ran 4AWG. Neither of my units ever get warm. I can say I also used a torque wrench so I know I tightened all the connections to spec.

The main reason I went with 4AWG was future proofing incase the Cybertruck gets a larger wall connector.

Every week I get worried I am going to run into this issue but I haven't.


jiml, thank you for your input. Since the overheat event, it hasn’t happened again, WC and cable are still warm but not like Wed. night. I checked the WC connections and they appeared ok, although I tightened the positive a bit more, I still need to check the breaker itself. I believe 6AWG can run up to 65A so it should do the job but in retrospect, I should’ve gone with the 4AWG. I will report back when I get the replacement unit.

Thank again.
 
I’m so annoyed!!!

Tesla sent me a replacement gen 3.

Once I receive the unit I reached out to Tesla wall support and they pushed the latest firmware.

After about two hours I logged into wall charger and confirmed that the new firmware had indeed been installed.

I plugged in and went to sleep with almost no battery and woke up with almost no battery!! Absolutely killed my Sunday plans.

Car won’t charge at more than 6amp with the replacement unit on latest firmware... 1.30

to be fair the Tesla tech told me there a 50-50 chance it will work as they are still working on a fix. Ridiculous. Sell me a gen 2!

Tried calling but of course they are closed on Sunday.

smh....
 

jjrandorin

Moderator, Model 3, Tesla Energy Forums
Moderator
Nov 28, 2018
14,320
18,141
Riverside Co. CA
And yet, with all of this, there was another thread where a new user was asking about wall connectors and I said "if I were buying now, I would buy a gen 2 instead of a gen 3, because many owners are reporting problems with them", and had someone reply basically saying "many people think Gen 3's are better".

I linked to this thread (and a few others) with all of you reporting this, and basically was met with "its my opinion and many others that Gen 3 are better", and even had another poster pile on and say "dunno what you are talking about, most people think gen 3 are better".
 
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jiml, thank you for your input. Since the overheat event, it hasn’t happened again, WC and cable are still warm but not like Wed. night. I checked the WC connections and they appeared ok, although I tightened the positive a bit more, I still need to check the breaker itself. I believe 6AWG can run up to 65A so it should do the job but in retrospect, I should’ve gone with the 4AWG. I will report back when I get the replacement unit.

Thank again.

You probably know this but I figured I would go ahead and say it in case you don't. The size of the wire isn't just determined by the amps you want to run through it but also the length of the line.

But yes, 6awg should be enough for these installs. I just think something in the Gen3 is just ever so slightly undersized and it is causing the issue due to additional resistance people get from using 6AWG. We now have three different people in this thread with 4AWG and no issues.
 
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I purchased a Gen 3 unit as a replacement for a Gen 2 unit that stopped working, and have had issues with it overheating since day one. On a 60-amp circuit with aluminum 6 gauge wire.

However... I then received a Gen 3 unit as a warranty replacement for the Gen 2 unit that failed (so I now have two Gen 3 units) that I had not installed until reading this thread. So I swapped them out and voila... no more overheating. Same wall wiring. Even used the same base plate (and wiring harness).
Definitely seems like something in the unit causing the overheating. New Gen 3 unit is about 2 months newer than the first Gen 3 unit.

I will be installing the second unit again in a few weeks and am interested to see if the overheating happens again..
 

MorrisonHiker

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Mar 8, 2015
10,553
10,590
Colorado
I purchased a Gen 3 unit as a replacement for a Gen 2 unit that stopped working, and have had issues with it overheating since day one. On a 60-amp circuit with aluminum 6 gauge wire.

However... I then received a Gen 3 unit as a warranty replacement for the Gen 2 unit that failed (so I now have two Gen 3 units) that I had not installed until reading this thread. So I swapped them out and voila... no more overheating. Same wall wiring. Even used the same base plate (and wiring harness).
Definitely seems like something in the unit causing the overheating. New Gen 3 unit is about 2 months newer than the first Gen 3 unit.

I will be installing the second unit again in a few weeks and am interested to see if the overheating happens again..
If you compare the part numbers, can you see if there's been a revision?
 
I’m having the same issue after 3 months of everything working fine. Three red blinks after 20 minutes at 48 amps then was cutting to 24 amps. Called support today, they said new firmware just was released so they pushed it to me. Problem still occurs, only difference is it slowly lowers amps to between 34-36 amps after overheat occurs and stabilizes there. Better, but not acceptable.

I use 4 gauge wire even though only 6 gauge was required based on the length of run. The wire and breaker are not hot when the fault occurs. The 18ft cable/handle is warm but the warmest location is on the left side of the wall connector just above the label.

Guess I’ll call support again and see about trying get a replacement.
 
And yet, with all of this, there was another thread where a new user was asking about wall connectors and I said "if I were buying now, I would buy a gen 2 instead of a gen 3, because many owners are reporting problems with them", and had someone reply basically saying "many people think Gen 3's are better".

I linked to this thread (and a few others) with all of you reporting this, and basically was met with "its my opinion and many others that Gen 3 are better", and even had another poster pile on and say "dunno what you are talking about, most people think gen 3 are better".

If I were only looking at the spec. sheets I too would say the Gen. 3 is better. It has all the capabilities of the Gen 2 but is more future proof due to the WiFi capability. Sounds like folks are not paying attention to real world issues that are clearly part of the Gen 3 roll out.
 
If I were only looking at the spec. sheets I too would say the Gen. 3 is better. It has all the capabilities of the Gen 2 but is more future proof due to the WiFi capability. Sounds like folks are not paying attention to real world issues that are clearly part of the Gen 3 roll out.

It is a little salt in my wounds because I upgraded my Gen2 because at the time I couldn't get another Gen2 for under $1000. I refused to pay that amount and I just purchased two new Gen3 and I need power sharing,

Yet, here we are, no power sharing. So even if the Gen3 units had none of this overheating (haven't suffered from it yet), we would still be sitting here with a unit that can't match the features of Gen2 at least 9 months after it has been released.
 

MorrisonHiker

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Mar 8, 2015
10,553
10,590
Colorado
If I were only looking at the spec. sheets I too would say the Gen. 3 is better. It has all the capabilities of the Gen 2 but is more future proof due to the WiFi capability.
If I were only looking at the spec sheets, I would say Gen 2 is better.

Gen 3 can't currently be load balanced. Gen 2 can.
Gen 3 can only charge at up to 48 amps. Gen 2 can charge at up to 80 amps.
Gen 3 comes with a maximum 18 foot cable. Gen 2 comes with a maximum 24 foot cable.

BTW
Gen 3 firmware can be updated via wi-fi. Gen 2 firmware can be updated when plugged into a vehicle.
 
Facing the same set of issues as others and the same path of solutions, called yesterday again to Tesla support and now they pushed a new FW to my wall charger (gen 3)
 

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CaptJaC

2020 Model Y
Supporting Member
Jul 20, 2020
33
16
Middle Georgia
UPDATE 1 Oct : After a 57 min hold, Tesla Home Charging Team promoted my case to Level 2. What ever that means. They put me on list to have Home Connecter & car monitored and if determined to have a bad unit a new one will be ordered. In their words "It may not fix the issue"

We have had good luck charging at 33 amp/ 30 MPH without 3 red lights. I plan to increase this until I get the lights and then back it down a notch.

UPDATE 17 Oct: Received a return label via email today for wall connector followed by a second email with a Fedex tracking number of “new” wall connector.

FWIW, current wall connector still working at 33amps with no red overheating lights.
 
Same issue as everyone else - Gen 3 wall connector worked fine for the first ~2 months, then got the 3 red lights and current drop from 48 to 24A. Called Tesla, tried resetting the breaker, etc, to no avail. They told me to set my max amperage to 30A and they would send a replacement. Charged at 30A without any problems, aside from the longer charge time! Waited for a few weeks without any followup, then finally called them back. They said they thought the issue had been resolved since they didn't see any fault codes from my end anymore. Yeah, that's because I was charging at the reduced amperage like they suggested! They then escalated the case, and I received my replacement yesterday. Installed it and charged last night without any issues at 48A. Finger crossed it stays that way.
 

CaptJaC

2020 Model Y
Supporting Member
Jul 20, 2020
33
16
Middle Georgia
...I received my replacement yesterday. Installed it and charged last night without any issues at 48A. Finger crossed it stays that way.
I also received a replacement yesterday but it definitely used/refurbished. Glass scratched and black case scuffed up. I noted the part number of new ends in 01-G and old one is 01-F.
So far so good at 48amps It is not on current firmware ver so I will call today to have it pushed.
I’m really on the fence now about sending my old non scratched one back only to find out in a month the new one over heats.
 

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