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Tesla wall connector gen3 overheating fix
- Thread starter njhtran
- Start date
UncleCreepy
Member
No, it's not. The manual is very clear about using copper conductors. Now see a war unfold how this is irrelevant vs. how it will burn down the garage...
I have a gen 3 charger I have it set to 50amps because electrician didn't have 60amp break with him. Based on what I see and how hot the cable get's it better to run the charger at 40amps.
Since I had the car and being able to stay at a few brand new hotels with destination chargers that with gen 3 chargers they all were also set to 40 amps and worked well. I also noticed level 2 chargers in other locations i used almost never run at max amps.
Based on what I am seeing here I think stepping down a notch is the norm and you should not run a charger at full capacity.
I haven't had an issue at all with my gen 3 and I think a lot has to do with not maxing it out.
Since I had the car and being able to stay at a few brand new hotels with destination chargers that with gen 3 chargers they all were also set to 40 amps and worked well. I also noticed level 2 chargers in other locations i used almost never run at max amps.
Based on what I am seeing here I think stepping down a notch is the norm and you should not run a charger at full capacity.
I haven't had an issue at all with my gen 3 and I think a lot has to do with not maxing it out.
UncleCreepy
Member
That's perfectly okay if it woks for you. If I had a SR/SR+ I wouldn't think about it for one second. However, if I buy an outdoor charger that is rated for 48 A and I want the 48 A then I don't see why I would put up with "up to 48 A". I want consistent 48 A, not less and certainly not less because Tesla forgot how to build chargers. That's the reason why I replaced my gen3 with a gen2 charger.
Has nothing to do Tesla and how they build the charger. Based on what you hear on this forum and what I generally see with other level 2 chargers they are lot more reliable when you do not run them at max rated amps.
You talking about 6 mph in additional charge. In the real world that is meaningless difference. If you need a charge faster you going to head to a supercharger along the way. In most cases you come home plug it in and unplug it the next day.
Gen. 2 Connectors could be wired with up to a 90 Amp circuit, and capable of charging earlier vehicles up to 72 Amps. Newer cars are maxed out at 48 Amps. Seems as if they could at one time handle 72 Amps reliably, that a reliable 48 Amp Connector should not be so difficult. Remember these are pretty much a pass through device, no voltage changes, no rectification etc., but mostly a Contactor , (large power relay), and some logic circuitry to control it.
Just because your situation doesn't match what others are getting doesn't mean we have a right to be angry. I get failures at 48A, 44A, 40A, 36A, 32A and so on. It doesn't matter how low I run it, it eventually drops in half. I'm at the point I just set it at 48A knowing I'll get 24A.
Supposedly Gen1 and Gen2 chargers were not designed in-house and were outsourced. Gen3 is the first in-house design. Obviously we don't know if it's a thinner cable, a bad component on the PCB, a bad design, or a combination of all three. All we know is the fact there are a lot of people not getting the 48A they are expecting. It doesn't matter if we're charging overnight and it'll finish in 4 hours or 8 hours. It matters that this has been ongoing since June 30 and there's no permanent fix.
tsimon
New Member
I was having an overheating problem on Gen 3 as well. Called Tesla charger support and they pushed new firmware version 1.4.0-10 have charged once for 1.5 hours and it charged 1.5 hours. The first 30 minutes at 48 Amps and reduced to 40 Amps for the 60 minutes but no errors. I also noticed the web interface has changed and only shows the image below.
Now you have to connect directly to the SSID of the wall connector and use http://192.168.92.1 in your browser to get into the setup screen. The interface has changed and shows live data of the voltage.
I'm not sure why they changed it. I used to be able to connect directly to the assigned IP address of the wall connector.
I have two wall connectors split on a 60 amp circuit. I keep both set at 24 amps as to not overload the circuit. Hoping they release the power sharing feature soon.
Just to update... I've had my replacement wall connector for about a week, and have charged 3 times (from about 40 to 80%). It has held at 48A every time with no issues. Of course the original wall connector functioned fine for the first two months, so the jury is still out, but so far so good.
Installing a 14/50 could be a solution, based on your intended usage. Would you then use your Mobile Connector plugged into the 14/50. As I recall this will give you a charge rate of 32 Amps. If you are paying to install a 14/50, and feel there is a Wall Connector in your future once bugs are ironed out, I would wire the 14/50 with 60 Amp capable wire, circuit breaker of 50 Amps. Then in the future the 14/50 could be removed, the Wall Connector installed in it's place, and with a 60 Amp breaker can now deliver the 48 Amps.
tsimon
New Member
Thank you Coldone. I have confirmed the behavior above is what I am experiencing as well.
Thanks for this. The local utility has an incentive/rebate for the hardware and installation so it would be nice to have -- assuming it works. My prior house, I just used a 14-50 with the mobile connector and didn't have any problems.
Same issue. Called. Sent me a new wall connector. I changed it. Same issue. Called. Said firmware will upgrade in 2 hours. Checked next day. Same issue but Firmware was updated. Called again said there’s a new firmware update. Check again tomorrow. Checked again. Firmware updated. Same issue.
Garnetter
Member
Well that’s not very encouraging! That totally sucks. I finally had my electrician come out yesterday and check his work. There were no issues but he went ahead and pulled new wire. He used 6 thhn copper. Called today and got firmware update of 1.421. Came home tonight, set my amps on the car to 40A (wall charger set to 50A). Plugged in. Lasted for about 30 min and now I have 3 red blinking lights AND the green charging lights at the same time. So it automatically lowered the car amps down to 34 from 40. Faceplate on the charging unit is slightly warm and the cable coming out the bottom is slightly warm. Nothing else is warm. But the fact remains that I am not getting the product that was sold to me. I will call again next week to get a new charger. You just never know!
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