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Tesla Wall Connector: Hard wiring Vs NEMA 14-50

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I’ve my Tesla Model Y delivery date finalized and now I’m exploring the options for charging. I ordered Tesla Wall Connector and thinking to connect to NEMA 14-50 for flexibility. Appreciate if I get response to following questions.

  • I understand that 60 Amp hard-wired wall connector works best, however, what are the cons of installing NEMA 14-50 with 50 Amp wire? Appreciate if someone let me know how slow the charging will be if Tesla Wall Connector is connected to NEMA 14-50 (50 Amp)
  • Assuming I opt for NEMA 14-50, would it affect the installation rebate or any State/Federal(?) rebate? One electrician said if I do not opt for hard wiring, the rebate can be denied. Is it true?
  • Any EV rebates available to apply for state of MD (Montgomery County)?
TIA
 
Just to reiterate, there is no 14-50 option with the Tesla Wall Connector that 100% adheres to code. It is not designed for this, or permitted in the installation manual for this. You have to hardwire the wall connector, and that would be clear when the electrician opens up the unit anyways. They would essentially be retrofitting a cord.

"It is literally a violation of electric code. Code has kind of a blanket catch-all that you need to connect an appliance according to its manufacturer's instructions. It is built to be a hard wired device, and does not have the proper lugs that are made for the fine stranded wire that those external cord and plugs usually have."

There's no good reason to go 14-50 with this device since you can easily remove it and put a 14-50 in its place down the road if you ever needed to. But I'm not sure why you would - a Tesla to J1772 adapter can adapt the Tesla Wall Connector to be used on any electric vehicle.
I agree the problem is that some electricians will not even read the manual. They will just fill the customer request to install a 14-50. IMO no permanent home charging install should have a 14-50 period. This is an EV charger drawing a very high amount of energy for potentially many hours. It’s not worth it to add in extra points if failure to the system.
 
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I agree the problem is that some electricians will not even read the manual. They will just fill the customer request to install a 14-50. IMO no permanent home charging install should have a 14-50 period. This is an EV charger drawing a very high amount of energy for potentially many hours. It’s not worth it to add in extra points if failure to the system.
A properly installed 14/50 outlet is perfectly safe for EV charging, just as safe as a Wall charger. The fact that you keep mentioning that these are unsafe is proof that you should educate yourself before making these kinds of statements.
 
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A properly installed 14/50 outlet is perfectly safe for EV charging, just as safe as a Wall charger. The fact that you keep mentioning that these are unsafe is proof that you should educate yourself before making these kinds of statements.
Perfectly safe when used as designed. Generally 14-50 receptacles are not designed for regular plugging and unplugging. The typical home application for the 14-50 receptacle is for a wall oven/range that rarely is unplugged. If you routinely unplug the power plug adapter from the receptacle the connection will become loose.

Separately, the Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector installation guide does not include an option for wiring the Wall Connector using a power plug. (In contrast, the Grizzl-E Classic 40 EVSE does come with installation instructions for use with a 50A rated power plug.) So to be code compliant the Tesla Wall Connector needs to follow the manufacturer's installation guide and be hard wired. The Grizzl-E Classic 40 EVSE can be hard wired or installed with either a NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 power plug.
 
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Perfectly safe when used as designed. Generally 14-50 receptacles are not designed for regular plugging and unplugging. The typical home application for the 14-50 receptacle is for a wall oven/range that rarely is unplugged. If you routinely unplug the power plug adapter from the receptacle the connection will become loose.

Separately, the Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector installation guide does not include an option for wiring the Wall Connector using a power plug. (In contrast, the Grizzl-E Classic 40 EVSE does come with installation instructions for use with a 50A rated power plug.) So to be code compliant the Tesla Wall Connector needs to follow the manufacturer's installation guide and be hard wired. The Grizzl-E Classic 40 EVSE can be hard wired or installed with either a NEMA 14-50 or 6-50 power plug.
Thank you for eloquently stating facts. Much better than I so poorly attempted.:)
 
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BTW, No need to ever unplug your Mobile charger from the 14-50 plug unless you need to take it with you on an road trip where it may be needed. I would say mine gets unplugged once per year.
When using the Tesla Mobile Connector(TMC) some assume it is OK to leave the TMC chassis hanging supported by only the power plug adapter. The receptacle and the power plug adapter are not designed to support any extra weight. Tesla sells a Cable Organizer kit ($35 US) that includes a mounting bracket for the TMC chassis. Any other method of supporting the weight of the TMC chassis (cable tie, velcro, etc.) other than the power plug adapter is acceptable.
 
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For what it's worth, you used to be able to buy the wall connector with the 14-50 plug attached to it. You can see it if you google it. There are some for sale on ebay for upwards of $1,000 dollars now though.

So, it's not entirely correct to say that it wasn't designed for it -- at least to say the 2nd gen wasn't.
Let's go over this in detail then. I have seen @MN-MS100D point out specifically that the wire lugs in all of the regular Tesla wall connectors are not the appropriate type for fine stranded wire. If some person is going to go pick out a cord to use, it is very highly likely that they are going to get an appliance cord. Those are generally made with fine stranded wire for the better flexibility. Not good.

Now you point to the version that Tesla built with an INCLUDED cord. You assume it's exactly the same as this do-it-yourself situation. You assume the lugs are the same. You assume the cord Tesla used for that is the same thing as someone would just go out and buy. Those are quite the assumptions. I would be more inclined to think Tesla did something a bit different than that so it is done more appropriately and safely. But maybe they didn't, and it's something they didn't do well and we can blame Tesla for. But two wrongs don't make a right, so that's not a good reason to encourage other people to make that same mistake.
 
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If you drop another fifty grand into a different EV, would you really care if at that point you have to spend another couple of grand tops in reconfiguring the way you give the new car a charge?
Why not just use an adaptor for the Tesla wall charger? One of my neighbours does this with his MS and leaf.

I plan on using it with my MYLR (if I ever get it) and our next vehicle, likely a BMW iX.
 
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If it'll almost never be inserted or removed ...



...why have that capability?
Because it gives you the option easily to do so any time you want, even though it won't be happening regularly?

I keep a jump starter/tire compressor/scissor jack/tire plug kit in my car that I almost never use, but it's there when I need to use it.
 
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Oh heck, I just connected this hand crank generator to my MSP, and recommended that every prisoner at the local jail have a one hour go of it. Thought of painting it green to be inline with the theme. 🤣😜

a-hand-crank-generator-a1-hlm-a1-feldgrau-lackiertes-metallgehuse-mit-zwei-anschlssen-und-hand...jpg
 
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This thread is confusing me. Let me try to summarize and see if I've got the gist of it.

If you intend on charging at home with a 14-50, get a robust outlet, but even then it's best not to plug and unplug. This setup is best with the Tesla cable organizer kit because it has an adapter that allows the TMC chassis to be mounted to the wall. Furthermore the kit has a hanger that supports the wire to the wall so that there is no tension on that wire going to the 14-50 outlet. The 14-50 outlet will need its own GFCI. It should not be directly connected to the electrical panel breaker.

However if you intend to plug and unplug from the 14-50, it would be best to just bite the bullet and get the Tesla Wall Connector because that is hardwired to your electrical panel and thus does not need a GFCI. And of course, if you're mounting this outside, the Tesla Wall Connector is the best choice.

My comment would be that if you're spending $100 or more for a quality 14-50 outlet, and another $30-50 for a good GFCI, the cost differential to the Tesla Wall Connector is not that great. Also my experience with GFCI's is that they tend to trip, especially in very hot weather.
 
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This thread is confusing me. Let me try to summarize and see if I've got the gist of it.

If you intend on charging at home with a 14-50, get a robust outlet, but even then it's best not to plug and unplug. This setup is best with the Tesla cable organizer kit because it has an adapter that allows the TMC chassis to be mounted to the wall. Furthermore the kit has a hanger that supports the wire to the wall so that there is no tension on that wire going to the 14-50 outlet. The 14-50 outlet will need its own GFCI. It should not be directly connected to the electrical panel breaker.

However if you intend to plug and unplug from the 14-50, it would be best to just bite the bullet and get the Tesla Wall Connector because that is hardwired to your electrical panel and thus does not need a GFCI. And of course, if you're mounting this outside, the Tesla Wall Connector is the best choice.

My comment would be that if you're spending $100 or more for a quality 14-50 outlet, and another $30-50 for a good GFCI, the cost differential to the Tesla Wall Connector is not that great. Also my experience with GFCI's is that they tend to trip, especially in very hot weather.
Good summary; The noted GFCI is part of the GFCI circuit breaker as there is no available 14-50 GFCI receptacle. The 50A GFCI circuit breaker costs $100 to $150 US.
 
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Good summary; The noted GFCI is part of the GFCI circuit breaker as there is no available 14-50 GFCI receptacle. The 50A GFCI circuit breaker costs $100 to $150 US.
The 50 amp GFCI breaker is $140 at my local big box hardware store. The Hubbell 14-50 is about $100. That's already $250. The Tesla Wall Connector is $400. Considering my experience with PITA GFCI breakers tripping in hot weather (on top of which my garage is not air conditioned) the TWC is a no brainer for me.
 
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The 50 amp GFCI breaker is $140 at my local big box hardware store. The Hubbell 14-50 is about $100. That's already $250. The Tesla Wall Connector is $400. Considering my experience with PITA GFCI breakers tripping in hot weather (on top of which my garage is not air conditioned) the TWC is a no brainer for me.
Most people get the Bryant at $46 from Grainer as it's almost identical to the Hubbell. There are also other options for cheaper that are still more robust than the Leviton, which is really what should be avoided.

GFCI breaker remains the biggest price difference. I have a Eaton BR 50A GFCI breaker myself and it has never false tripped so far even in hot weather (knock on wood). The ones that trip tend to be the ones built into the outlets or the 15A/20A ones.
 
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