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Tesla Wall connector with 14-50 NEMA plug

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The corded wall connector is still listed on the website, but out of stock.
The OP was talking about the full sized Wall Connector. It used to be available in a version that had a plug rather than needing to be wired in. I suspect it was superceded by the corded mobile connector that you mentioned.
 
The corded wall connector is still listed on the website, but out of stock.

That is corded MOBILE connector, not corded WALL connector.

EDIT:.. I should have read to the end of the thread, someone already said that. sorry, wasnt trying to pile on.
 
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I feel obligated to mention that converting a 14-50 outlet to a hard-wired wall connector install is a very simple task, and is in keeping with the wall connector's install instructions, unlike adding a 14-50 pigtail.

Note: I don't especially think that the 14-50 pigtail is inherently bad or unsafe, but it's nearly as easy to do it "right".
 
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I feel obligated to mention that converting a 14-50 outlet to a hard-wired well connector install is a very simple task, and is in keeping with the wall connector's install instructions, unlike adding a 14-50 pigtail.

Note: I don't especially think that the 14-50 pigtail is inherently bad or unsafe, but it's nearly as easy to do it "right".

Adding a pigtail to a Wall Connector adds two more wire connection points - one going into the 14-50 receptacle and the connection point of the receptacle to the plug. If you view each connection as a potential point of failure, you're increasing that risk factor by 200% compared to a straight hard-wired Wall Connector.
 
What electronics are we exactly stressing?
The power electronics in the on board charger that converts 240v (or 120v) AC to the nearly 400v DC needed to charge the battery. The reported behavior has been that charging at or below 16a uses one charging circuit, Charging between 16a and 32a splits the load across two of them and >32a (in cars that support it) splits the load across all three. If I had to guess at the reasons WHY it would be programmed that way, I would say that it comes down to efficiency. The power electronics are probably less efficient at low amperages, so it makes more sense to run one circuit at 16a than two at 8a or three at 5.33a.
 
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The power electronics in the on board charger that converts 240v (or 120v) AC to the nearly 400v DC needed to charge the battery. The reported behavior has been that charging at or below 16a uses one charging circuit, Charging between 16a and 32a splits the load across two of them and >32a (in cars that support it) splits the load across all three. If I had to guess at the reasons WHY it would be programmed that way, I would say that it comes down to efficiency. The power electronics are probably less efficient at low amperages, so it makes more sense to run one circuit at 16a than two at 8a or three at 5.33a.
Ok. On that 3rd circuit, how does it support the 150a - 250amps at a supercharger?
Are these circuits specifically rated for these designated charge rates? And what i mean is, is curcuit 1 for 16a, circuit 2 for 16a, and circuit 3 for 150 - 250a (variable rates?)?
 
Ok. On that 3rd circuit, how does it support the 150a - 250amps at a supercharger?
Are these circuits specifically rated for these designated charge rates? And what i mean is, is curcuit 1 for 16a, circuit 2 for 16a, and circuit 3 for 150 - 250a (variable rates?)?
The charging circuits being discussed only apply to AC charging. DC fast charging, aka Supercharging, connects directly to the battery, completely bypasses the AC charging hardware.
 
Yes, there are three circuits that can each handle up to 240v 16a. Together they combine to provide the 48a max charge rate of the car. SR or RWD models have only two of these circuits and can charge at a maximum of 240v 32a.

Minor correction: they can handle up to 277 volts nominal (285 max?).

Teslas are the only EVs I know of that can charge on 277 volts.