Tesla Wont Start - Need help!

[brkaus]

I did not put a new 12 volt battery in it. The car has 2000 miles on it and the battery seems to be fine. nothing else got damage but the wheel and the knuckle, since it got pushed back It cut open the two High Voltage wires and that most likely blew the Pyro Fuse. everyone else is working properly.

Ok. I'd try to put a booster or a jumper on the 12v system anyway. If the pyro blows nothing is keeping the 12v charged and there are lots of computers and such hanging off of it that will drain it pretty fast (minutes to hours). Lead Acid doesn't like sitting fully drained.

Assuming the air bags didn't deploy the pyro was probably in response to a voltage leak detected.

There are some salvage threads on here that you may want to look through..

 

[Restore]

Ok. I'd try to put a booster or a jumper on the 12v system anyway. If the pyro blows nothing is keeping the 12v charged and there are lots of computers and such hanging off of it that will drain it pretty fast (minutes to hours). Lead Acid doesn't like sitting fully drained.

Assuming the air bags didn't deploy the pyro was probably in response to a voltage leak detected.

There are some salvage threads on here that you may want to look through..

I still don't get how these threads work and how to find stuff, any chance you can drop some links?

 

[brkaus]

I still don't get how these threads work and how to find stuff, any chance you can drop some links?

I’d use google.

search for

site:Teslamotorsclub.com Salvage pyro fuse reduced etc

 

[Mark_T]

I still don't get how these threads work and how to find stuff, any chance you can drop some links?

Here you go, this should get you started ... Salvage Car Owners Support Group.

I don't suppose you got any history on the car that would explain how it ended up at auction, sold with crash damage but not as a salvage title, and with only localized front quarter damage, instead of being repaired?

Only asking as it goes to why it won't start and what is ahead of you...

We've seen a lot of people arrive here with 'light damage' and high hopes of a cheap repair only to find out there was something more substantial wrong which explains why the car was auctioned in the first place...

Given you are getting at least some messages on screen the 12V shouldn't be dead but it may be at a very low charge state so getting that properly recharged is a good place to begin.

You should also check the electrical ground stud as a poor contact there through corrosion or in your case crash damage causes all sorts of random errors and problems...

 

[CaryRx]

HV battery may be at 0% and 12v may be low. Is the car where you can plug in the UMC? Put a battery charger on the 12v too.

I haven't had this problem, but I've read a lot about cars that are left off a charger for an extended time and go totally dead have battery issues like the 12v being depleted, or the main pack being problematic. Maybe this auction car sat a long time and was a victim of Vampire Drain??

 

[Del boy]

I haven't had this problem, but I've read a lot about cars that are left off a charger for an extended time and go totally dead have battery issues like the 12v being depleted, or the main pack being problematic. Maybe this auction car sat a long time and was a victim of Vampire Drain??

I still don't get how these threads work and how to find stuff, any chance you can drop some links?

Did you find out what the it was in the end? I’m having the same problem on my MS changed pyrofuse but still won’t drive or keep the 12v battery charged