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TeslaFi Battery Report - What does your LR car charge to @ 100%?

How many miles on your long range Model 3 at 100%


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I'm curious what your Long range Model 3 charges to at 100%. My Performance 3 is around 276 miles at 100%. I take very good care of my battery.

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Just curious where everyone else is at.

For reference, the day I picked my car up it charged to 302 at 100% and has been going down ever since. 12k miles on the car. Have supercharged a handful of times. charge to 85% every night. Twice a month charge to 95%. Once a month charge to 100% and drive immediately (hoping to re-calibrate battery - never a change).

I wish I had done TeslaFi from the beginning, but did not subscript until I had 7k miles on the car. Firmware seems to have no affect on my range... all the drops on the chart above do NOT correspond to a new firmware version or any sort of temperature variance (charge in garage at a temp of about 65F every night - San Diego).
 
From July 2018 when I got my car, to Sept 2019, I almost exclusively charged at a Level 2 station at work. I would usually charge to have anywhere from 250 (~80%) to 300 (~95%) miles. That worked out to 315 @ 100%. Now, I'm charging at an urban Supercharger near my house and keep the charging limit at 90% which gives me 277 miles or 308 miles @ 100% over the last several months.

Note: I'm NOT using TeslaFi. And my lifetime Wh/mi is around 235 last I checked (16.7K miles)
 
P3D as well. Was on a continuous downward trajectory, but recently bumped up a bit, and is sort of flat about 285 ish. SC said that the 'degradation' was in the normal range, and that the reported range isn't an accurate indication of degradation. (Not that it really matters to me, as the reported range is still the maximum range that I can plan to drive on a charge)

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I wish I had done TeslaFi from the beginning, but did not subscript until I had 7k miles on the car.

Why? Whatcha going to do about it if you had all the data? Buy a new battery out of pocket? Ask Tesla to buy you a new battery under the warranty even though the degradation doesn't meet the requirements?

If you didn't subscribe at all, you'd have more cash in your pocket and still have all the same abilities to deal with your battery degradation, which are nil.
 
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Why? Whatcha going to do about it if you had all the data? Buy a new battery out of pocket? Ask Tesla to buy you a new battery under the warranty even though the degradation doesn't meet the requirements?

If you didn't subscribe at all, you'd have more cash in your pocket and still have all the same abilities to deal with your battery degradation, which are nil.

I love this car and plan on keeping it for at least 15 years, so I like having data points. Charging my car to 100% and only seeing 276 and thinking hmm, that seems a bit low... Being able to have that logged and recorded over time is interesting. Worth the small fee to have real data.
 
P3D as well. Was on a continuous downward trajectory, but recently bumped up a bit, and is sort of flat about 285 ish. SC said that the 'degradation' was in the normal range, and that the reported range isn't an accurate indication of degradation. (Not that it really matters to me, as the reported range is still the maximum range that I can plan to drive on a charge)

Thanks for the info! Out of curiosity from another P3D owner, what is your lifetime Wh/M /Efficiency? I am a very conservative driver with a light touch on the throttle. Also at +5 over speed limit with autopilot pretty much always on and TeslaFi has me at 296 Wh/Mile.

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Thanks for the info! Out of curiosity from another P3D owner, what is your lifetime Wh/M /Efficiency? I am a very conservative driver with a light touch on the throttle. Also at +5 over speed limit with autopilot pretty much always on and TeslaFi has me at 296 Wh/Mile.

View attachment 502834

Has me at 260 wh/Mile about 90% efficiency. Good comparison, as identical cars, same location (temps). My miles are mostly north/south on the 15, and autopilot. My average distance per drive is quite alot higher which will help with efficiency. Recently been a fair-bit higher that that with the 'Cold :rolleyes:' weather in the mornings.

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Early-2019 M3P+ here with about 12k miles on the odo, fairly aggressive driver with ~340 Wh/mi lifetime efficiency (including a couple of track events).

My 100% SoC charges extrapolate to about 300 miles, which sounds like is very good for the amount of miles I have and my higher-than-average consumption.

Charging habits: 80% every few days, rarely above that (90% a dozen times and 100% three times, always immediately before starting a long drive).

Car is garaged every night in SF. I usually bike to work, so the car is mostly used on long trips over the weekend.

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I love this car and plan on keeping it for at least 15 years, so I like having data points. Charging my car to 100% and only seeing 276 and thinking hmm, that seems a bit low... Being able to have that logged and recorded over time is interesting. Worth the small fee to have real data.

I question how "real" the data is. Actually, it's pretty obvious that the data isn't real.
When you can see differences when software updates, it's obvious.
When you can see differences when the battery is conditioned, it's obvious.

And I do hope that you know that it's not the range of the car. That's a VERY different discussion. (600+ miles for a Model 3 LR RWD)
 
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I question how "real" the data is. Actually, it's pretty obvious that the data isn't real.
When you can see differences when software updates, it's obvious.
When you can see differences when the battery is conditioned, it's obvious.

And I do hope that you know that it's not the range of the car. That's a VERY different discussion. (600+ miles for a Model 3 LR RWD)


Not quite sure I understand. The degradation I'm seeing is absolutely real world... My starting charge at 100% has 11% less energy then the vast majority of people and the actual range I can travel is reflected. The car understands it because it's ending battery percentage estimate is always spot on.
 
Has me at 260 wh/Mile about 90% efficiency. Good comparison, as identical cars, same location (temps). My miles are mostly north/south on the 15, and autopilot. My average distance per drive is quite alot higher which will help with efficiency. Recently been a fair-bit higher that that with the 'Cold :rolleyes:' weather in the mornings.

View attachment 502837

Awesome, thank you for the data!
 
Not quite sure I understand. The degradation I'm seeing is absolutely real world... My starting charge at 100% has 11% less energy then the vast majority of people and the actual range I can travel is reflected. The car understands it because it's ending battery percentage estimate is always spot on.

First, you are assuming that the reported 100% charge is actually 100% of the capacity of the battery. Many threads on how that is not necessarily the case.
For actual range, I'll need you to charge to 100% and run it until it stops. That's the ONLY way of accurately measuring range. And then again, assuming that the full charge numbers can be false, that needs to be fixed, then run 100% to 0% and do that probably 20 times for statistical relevance.

The meters lie! Get used to it. That's one of the reasons why the range can change with software updates, they update the algorithms. (i.e. a new guess)

It's also quite comical with the "official" numbers since originally, most of the cars showed the same range, in which everyone knew they were actually different. My LR RWD had the highest range.

Way too much fudging of numbers exist.

But, let's say that you indeed have a battery that has degraded 12%. That's well within warranty. Don't like it, sell it.
 
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You need to leave it at 95-100% for many hours to reset the battery and calculations.

Leaving the battery at very high SoC for extended periods of time is not good for the battery. This is what causes accelerated degradation.

To "reset the battery and calculations" the car needs to be driven to a low SoC then recharged to a high SoC so the BMS knows how much capacity the battery actually has instead of guesstimating.

But please people, don't leave your car above 90% for hours at a time!
 
I question how "real" the data is. Actually, it's pretty obvious that the data isn't real.
When you can see differences when software updates, it's obvious.
When you can see differences when the battery is conditioned, it's obvious.

And I do hope that you know that it's not the range of the car. That's a VERY different discussion. (600+ miles for a Model 3 LR RWD)

The DATA is absolutely real, its reported by the car on what it 'Estimates' the likely range of the car is. (With some sort of an assumed driving profile)

What isn't obvious is the information that can be drawn from that data. Non the less, the trends and differences between different cars are 'interesting'

Also the Actual range you will get is very dependent on lots of factors, including how you drive it, same as any other car, ever made. But, it is a reasonable estimate, and not a random number plucked out of the air.

Not quite sure I understand. The degradation I'm seeing is absolutely real world... My starting charge at 100% has 11% less energy then the vast majority of people and the actual range I can travel is reflected. The car understands it because it's ending battery percentage estimate is always spot on.

There is probably some difference between the 'technical' degradation that the battery has experienced, and the estimated range that the car is reporting to the driver.

What's reported to the driver definitively does include the degradation, BUT there are other factors which may be influencing the number, such as the profile of the actually diving of the car, power/efficiency updates in the firmware over time, updates to battery management, average temperature. etc.etc.

Lots of data could go into the calculation, and that could change over software releases.

What I'm interested in tracking is the trend of the data, the same as I would on any other car. If my average MPG goes down on my ICE car, probably a good indication that it needs service. If there is a continual downward trend on range, then that also indicates a possible problem.
 
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