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TeslaFi vs TeslaMate

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Me too. Another thing that bothers me is that every time I try to set my log-on details into the YouTube app on the MS it comes up with a message to the effect it won't let me because it's "insecure". Is this common, is it Tesla or is it YouTube? There's no attribution in the refusal....

The workaround is to go to the browser and login to app.plex.tv (Plex) with Google (even if you don't use Plex). You will then be logged into Youtube.
 
Me too. Another thing that bothers me is that every time I try to set my log-on details into the YouTube app on the MS it comes up with a message to the effect it won't let me because it's "insecure". Is this common, is it Tesla or is it YouTube? There's no attribution in the refusal....

I logged a service call with Tesla about this issue and their response was that it's an expected behaviour and Tesla is working with youtube to remediate. Their solution was me to disable lesssecureapp auth. But there are 2 ways you can do it - details in this video -
 
>>The workaround is to go to the browser and login to app.plex.tv (Plex) with Google (even if you don't use Plex). You will then be logged into Youtube.<<

I don't like to give any details to anyone I haven't GOT to - paranoia again - so I will wait until Tesla comes up with something. But thanks anyway.
 
I have done the Plex way and it works, but can understand privacy concerns.

You used to be able to login to YouTube until someone discovered you can login to YouTube and then someone comes along, goes to Tesla.com and resets your password and then can access your Gmail from the car to reset the password since the login goes to the web browser to (hence Plex.TV workaround) login to Tesla.com and then they can do anything with it. If you use Gmail for your Tesla account should keep this in mind. Pin to drive can be overridden as well.
 
>>I logged a service call with Tesla about this issue and their response was that it's an expected behaviour and Tesla is working with youtube to remediate. Their solution was me to disable lesssecureapp auth. But there are 2 ways you can do it - details in this video -<<

I couldn't follow that video at all - the talk was all over the place and the hand waving in front of the screen....well!
 
Telsfi reports a noticeable range loss on my M3 LR since upgrading firmware to 8.3 :(

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I worry about TeslaMate not having a revenue stream to fund new features. Both TeslaFi and TezLab charge for their use and are competing with each other and others for users so they will be adding (or copying) new features that will make them better over time. The new TezLab just added (copied?) the feature of totaling up the number of kWh's of charge that you have added at each charging site. I don't have that for my Chevron card, it's pretty cool that they can figure out ways to massage the data into revealing new details.

Still I did recommend it to a friend who has never used any of the 3P apps as he didn't wanna give his password away. Setting up a home server is kinda his bailywick.
 
>>If you go downhill you are going to be more than 100% efficient. Lots of reasons why you could be beating the average.<<

You are highly unlikely to be more than 100% efficient! And the average is something totally different.
 
>>Oh. OK, so you have an opinion. I see. That's just great. Not sure why you are telling us your opinion. If you have a FACT that others are unaware of, that would be of interest.<<

Sorry that I have offended you. I am merely asking,in effect, if anyone can explain the over-100 efficiency that the program gives.
 
I'll try to explain. There is an expected efficiency that the car considers normal. I don't know how it is calculated, but if you beat that efficiency on your route, say you drive 50 miles but only use 25 miles worth of range, your "efficiency" is rated as 200%, same with if you drove 50 miles but used 100 miles of range your "efficiency" is 50%. As I mentioned there are many things that affect this range, certainly a head or tail wind.

So you may not like that you can be more than 100% efficient, but that's what it's called. There may be a better word for it, but it's not something based on physics or geography. It's based on beating, or not, the car's ideal usage. Once the efficiency of the car/driver combo is calculated you can get the rated range of the car. That's the ideal range but with an understanding of the average efficiency of this car being driven over time. On my car, as I fill the battery I get a display of the Ideal Range, and below that, in TezLab, it shows the rated range based on my 92% efficient driving:

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I'll try to explain. There is an expected efficiency that the car considers normal. I don't know how it is calculated, but if you beat that efficiency on your route, say you drive 50 miles but only use 25 miles worth of range, your "efficiency" is rated as 200%, same with if you drove 50 miles but used 100 miles of range your "efficiency" is 50%. As I mentioned there are many things that affect this range, certainly a head or tail wind.

So you may not like that you can be more than 100% efficient, but that's what it's called. There may be a better word for it, but it's not something based on physics or geography. It's based on beating, or not, the car's ideal usage. Once the efficiency of the car/driver combo is calculated you can get the rated range of the car. That's the ideal range but with an understanding of the average efficiency of this car being driven over time.
This measure, whatever it is, is definitely not “efficiency”. It is simply a ratio of actual distance travelled to the amount of estimated range used up.

“Par score” would be a better name, with a value of 1 if the distance travelled equals estimated range used.

This utter misnomer seems to come from one of the Tesla apps which, completely incorrectly, adopted the name “efficiency” for this particular ratio.

There is only one measure of efficiency for a battery electric vehicle, and that is watt-hours per kilometre (Wh/km).
 
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