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The 100,000 Mile Club: beyond the 100K barrier in your Model S
- Thread starter tinm
- Start date
Thanks, just looked that up. Still waiting on parts and plan to root the car anyway, but will do that if I fail.
Lasttoy
Active Member
I had 4 door handles go bad. I got the new ones off eBay. Gears and micro switches from service center . Fixed them myself.
docrice
Member
I hit 100k today, right next to a Lucid Motors building. A full capacity charge does somewhere around 248 still. Planning a 3000-mile road trip in the coming months.
2019.03.23: 6-Figure Mileage
Here's to another 100k miles...
2019.03.23: 6-Figure Mileage
Here's to another 100k miles...
Lasttoy
Active Member
202k miles here. Very few repairs. The most expensive was the mobile connector that I left in the rain and died. $500. One other repair was a valve for $300 and the 12 Volt battery for $245. I did a few other things myself with second hand parts. MCU works fine, just has a bubble that doesn't show much though so I'm not replacing it yet. The rest is normal stuff like wipers cabin air filters, head light bulbs, tires. After 5 years the TPMS sensors are due to be replaced as well.
Overall far less that any ICE car I had before in terms of maintenance.
They did replace my drive unit several times because I complained about noise. Once I got the new revised one it's quiet and smooth for 100k miles now.
Battery lost approximately 11% range. I'm at 240 miles on a full charge.
Overall far less that any ICE car I had before in terms of maintenance.
They did replace my drive unit several times because I complained about noise. Once I got the new revised one it's quiet and smooth for 100k miles now.
Battery lost approximately 11% range. I'm at 240 miles on a full charge.
camthehombre
Member
Damn. Lucky you! I just had my onboard charger replaced, $2500 out of pocket. I hope that’s my only big fix for a while.
retinadoc
Member
140K Miles. Door handle issues as above. Just replace paddle gear, not entire $900 unit. Small bubble on LCD- ignore. Replaced brakes finally at 130K ($2000). All in all far cheaper than the torment I had with an Audi A8 or BMW 7 series. Now at maximum charge 230 miles. Service keeps asking if I want a new one. I still can't think of a compelling reason to upgrade.
Not 8. Yes it was replaced several times. The last DU has been replaced approx 100k miles ago and is working just fine. The first drive units had issues and everyone that has been around here knows about it. But Tesla revised the drive units and they run flawless. By now all early drive units have been replaced with the new revised one and there is no issue anymore. It's pointless to keep repeating something of the past that has been resolved and fixed.
In case anyone was waiting anxiously for an update, my car is all patched up and back on the road.
Ciaopec
Active Member
2016 MS refresh (Jun 2016). Ready to mount third set of Michelins at 110,000 miles. Replaced both headlight units (twice, DRL bad) under warranty. Minor A/C diverter baffle repaired under warranty. Majority of those miles were Supercharged so charging now (which once began at about 100kW) now routinely starts about 90kW. Range still good with no squeaks or rattles. Still the most enjoyable car ever driven!
I never extended the warranty and I'm ahead on money not spent. My car is coming up on 160000 km, that's like 100000 miles.. so I feel I belong to this club in a metric kind of way. Got a drivetrain, MCU under original warranty early on, a few handles but now I do those myself for almost no money. Got a power steering rack motor sealing (recall), seatbelt (recall), and have an airbag (recall) yet to do.
Just paid $210 for first 12V battery replacement, lasted 4.5 years.
Front upper A-arms, I did both myself they were $250/piece from Tesla, pretty good.
Windshield $700, my pocket.
And I haven't lost any battery degradation, it still charges to 100% !!
Just paid $210 for first 12V battery replacement, lasted 4.5 years.
Front upper A-arms, I did both myself they were $250/piece from Tesla, pretty good.
Windshield $700, my pocket.
And I haven't lost any battery degradation, it still charges to 100% !!
Last edited:
camthehombre
Member
I never extended the warranty and I'm ahead on money not spent. My car is coming up on 160000 km, that's like 100000 miles.. so I feel I belong to this club in a metric kind of way. Got a drivetrain, MCU under original warranty early on, a few handles but now I do those myself for almost no money. Got a power steering rack motor sealing (recall), seatbelt (recall), and have an airbag (recall) yet to do.
Just paid $210 for first 12V battery replacement, lasted 4.5 years.
Front upper A-arms, I did both myself they were $250/piece from Tesla, pretty good.
Windshield $700, my pocket.
And I haven't lost any battery degradation, it still charges to 100% !!
Two things-
1- Were the A-arms hard to do?
2- Degradation isn't the ability to charge to 100%, it's the amount you're able to charge to at 100%. For example, if your car new chargers to 265 miles at 100% but now chargers to 100% and it's on'y 250 miles, then 250/265=94.3% the original capacity. You would have 5.7% degradation. (100-94.3).
Two things-
1- Were the A-arms hard to do?
2- Degradation isn't the ability to charge to 100%, it's the amount you're able to charge to at 100%. For example, if your car new chargers to 265 miles at 100% but now chargers to 100% and it's on'y 250 miles, then 250/265=94.3% the original capacity. You would have 5.7% degradation. (100-94.3).
Doing A-arms was easy enough.. if you've done any kind of suspension arm work before these are pretty straight forward.
Roughly: Raise air suspension to max for working room. Jack mode on. Jack corner up, wheel off then remove fender felt liner, disconnect air height sensor, remove sensor. On my old model S I think I also removed the 12v battery to get tool access on right side of car, newer cars battery is relocated and not in the way. The rear bolt on the A-arm is bolted blind into the strut tower with threading as part of the car.. don't screw up those threads (over torquing). The front bolt on the arm you put tools on the bolt head and the nut. The ball joint is part of the arm, it uses a bolt as a cotter pin so that bolt comes out then the ball stud lifts easily out of the wheel carrier. Wheel flops over (catch it support it) then A-arm wiggles out. Install new arm at all 3 points, but don't tighten bolts yet, lower the car... get suspension to normal height with weight of car tire back on the ground, then tighten the two bolts in that position. (This is so the rubber bushings are not pre-stressing while the car is at neutral height). I think I put 50 lbs torque on the rear bolt (I was sweating bullets not to strip that blind nut) and 70 lbs torque on the front bolt, and about 40 lbs on the ball stud cotter pin bolt. Used all new bolts that I bought at same time as A-arms, because that's what Tesla specs.. I think they came with pre-applied blue LocTite where needed.
I know about the battery 100%.. that was a joke. I just don't worry a bit about battery degradation. I actually did measure once, at about the 4 year mark I was down not quite 3% from new capacity.
I never extended the warranty and I'm ahead on money not spent. My car is coming up on 160000 km, that's like 100000 miles.. so I feel I belong to this club in a metric kind of way. Got a drivetrain, MCU under original warranty early on, a few handles but now I do those myself for almost no money. Got a power steering rack motor sealing (recall), seatbelt (recall), and have an airbag (recall) yet to do.
Just paid $210 for first 12V battery replacement, lasted 4.5 years.
Front upper A-arms, I did both myself they were $250/piece from Tesla, pretty good.
Windshield $700, my pocket.
And I haven't lost any battery degradation, it still charges to 100% !!
how much is the extended warranty? after CPO warranty expires?
BostonBurley
Sorry. Bipolar.
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