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The catastrophe of FSD and erosion of trust in Tesla

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They have imagined what a final finished robotaxi software setup looks like, and they're mad the thing that's explicitly not that is in fact not that.

No, not really. I'm disappointed (not mad) because Autopilot sucks, as does other basic automation in the Tesla (auto wipers, auto high-beams). It has major limitations and often just doesn't operate in a way that is reasonable or helpful. Sometimes it is very helpful, and sometimes it's just stupid and embarrassing. Maybe the user manual tells me (and in fact it does) that it may brake when it shouldn't, and it may not brake when it should. The fact that it says that in the user manual doesn't change the fact that it sucks.

And how this all applies to FSD is that their implementation for the far more basic aspects of automation is woefully lacking and often unimpressive, so many of us have a real hard time taking seriously the idea that this thing will be able to "fully self drive" anytime soon, if ever.
 
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No, not really. I'm disappointed (not mad) because Autopilot sucks, as does other basic automation in the Tesla (auto wipers, auto high-beams). It has major limitations and often just doesn't operate in a way that is reasonable or helpful. Sometimes it is very helpful, and sometimes it's just stupid and embarrassing. Maybe the user manual tells me (and in fact it does) that it may brake when it shouldn't, and it may not brake when it should. The fact that it says that in the user manual doesn't change the fact that it sucks.

And how this all applies to FSD is that their implementation for the far more basic aspects of automation is woefully lacking and often unimpressive, so many of us have a real hard time taking seriously the idea that this thing will be able to "fully self drive" anytime soon, if ever.
Exactly. They cover themselves in various caveats about where it could work, or where it might not work, and where you should use it, and where you could use it.. which parts are/aren’t beta, etc. Clearly they want users to push the envelope without taking any responsibility as a firm.
Contrast that with Mercedes who are taking liability in certain automation modes in Germany. This implies a much higher level of confidence in your product.

AP has stopped getting much better in the last 2 years. I saw pretty rapid changes in 2018-2019 time frame on the complexity of highways it would deal with in the northeast.

Given how AP performs, I have had no interest in subjecting myself to the rituals of getting my score up to be admitted to FSD.
If AP is still largely beta, then FSD is clearly beta^2.

Why is FSD using the same cameras, sensors and compute going to perform radically better on more complicated driving environments than AP performs on highways? Doubt.
 
No, not really. I'm disappointed (not mad) because Autopilot sucks

Compared to what?

Because when folks objectively test ADAS from other car makers, Autopilot consistently beats the hell out of them for capabilities.


Maybe the user manual tells me (and in fact it does) that it may brake when it shouldn't, and it may not brake when it should. The fact that it says that in the user manual doesn't change the fact that it sucks.

Not for the first time I'll point out every brand of car has the same warnings about their systems

And most offer far less capability in comparison on top.

So "sucks compared to what" if not "what you imagine it should be"?[/QUOTE]
 
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Exactly. They cover themselves in various caveats about where it could work, or where it might not work, and where you should use it, and where you could use it.. which parts are/aren’t beta, etc. Clearly they want users to push the envelope without taking any responsibility as a firm.
Contrast that with Mercedes

Ok. Let's do that.


Click on the E class owners manual for example.

Go to page 182 where it describes their active cruise control system (TACC equivalent called Active Distance Assist) where it lists times it might not work react correctly:

Mercedes said:
when driving on a di̮ferent lane or when changing lanes
to pedestrians, animals, bicycles or stationary vehicles, or unexpected obstacles
to complex tra̱ffic conditions
to oncoming vehicles and crossing tra̱ffic

Hey look- Mercedes explcitly says it might not work right with crossing traffic, pedestrians, etc

Tell me again how ONLY Tesla has these disclaimers?


It has similar warnings in all the ADAS sections like their (much less capable) version of autosteer for example.


AP has stopped getting much better in the last 2 years.

Because all future development has gone into the new FSD that isn't in wide release yet.

Given how AP performs, I have had no interest in subjecting myself to the rituals of getting my score up to be admitted to FSD.
If AP is still largely beta, then FSD is clearly beta^2.

The beta is VASTLY more capable in exactly the situations you're mad about

It's certainly far from perfect, but it reflects the years of improvement you have NOT seen in basic AP.


Why is FSD using the same cameras, sensors and compute going to perform radically better on more complicated driving environments than AP performs on highways? Doubt.


Because it's a completely different software stack, that works fundamentally differently, and actually has code intended to handle more things than the AP code?

Why does one OS do better at a task on the same computer than another?

Heck why does one human race car driver do better in the same car than another untrained driver on a race track?
 
Exactly. They cover themselves in various caveats about where it could work, or where it might not work, and where you should use it, and where you could use it.. which parts are/aren’t beta, etc. Clearly they want users to push the envelope without taking any responsibility as a firm.
Contrast that with Mercedes who are taking liability in certain automation modes in Germany. This implies a much higher level of confidence in your product.

AP has stopped getting much better in the last 2 years. I saw pretty rapid changes in 2018-2019 time frame on the complexity of highways it would deal with in the northeast.

Given how AP performs, I have had no interest in subjecting myself to the rituals of getting my score up to be admitted to FSD.
If AP is still largely beta, then FSD is clearly beta^2.

Why is FSD using the same cameras, sensors and compute going to perform radically better on more complicated driving environments than AP performs on highways? Doubt.
What are you driving? My 2022 MYP is flawless when using autopilot or navigate on autopilot, and I use it for 150+ miles a day, on 5-7 freeways. its flawless when using the stop sign and stop light part as well. Seems like you have a grudge against Tesla, or your car is behaving badly. I don't see how in any way, regular AP is in beta.

And the safety score is not hard. at all. you just dont know how to play the game. I drive like a madman, on windy mountain freeways, and Bay Area traffic and have a perfect score.

Edit: And as proof that you just haven't figured out your car and expect it to be something its not. this is after 21,500 miles since opting in.

Figure it out.

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 12.08.23 PM.png
 
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What are you driving? My 2022 MYP is flawless when using autopilot or navigate on autopilot, and I use it for 150+ miles a day, on 5-7 freeways. its flawless when using the stop sign and stop light part as well. Seems like you have a grudge against Tesla, or your car is behaving badly. I don't see how in any way, regular AP is in beta.

And the safety score is not hard. at all. you just dont know how to play the game. I drive like a madman, on windy mountain freeways, and Bay Area traffic and have a perfect score.

Edit: And as proof that you just haven't figured out your car and expect it to be something its not. this is after 21,500 miles since opting in.

Figure it out.

View attachment 809082

It's been my observation that peoples experience of AP/FSD is extremely route dependent.
Some regions (Northeast) have older (narrower, no shoulders, zig-saggier), pothole ridden, poorly marked (salt & season wear) highways & bridges that well predate the Eisenhower highway system. Plus a wider range of variable weather conditions.

Anecdotally I'd say the cars are designed in CA by CA residents and people in CA seem pretty happy with the performance in CA conditions..
 
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AFAIK everything under the AP and FSD banners are beta.




No. There's controlled access highways with stoplights too (most often though not exclusively at the controlled access points to regulate flow)

Apart from that, it's specifically autosteer that's not intended for use with cross traffic (which is what most people actually mean when they say autopilot.... using Autosteer and TACC at the same time).

Autosteer is not required to respond to stoplights- TACC alone (which is not as restricted in where it's meant to be used) does the stoplight thing.
I can't recall being able to use autosteer without TACC.
Autosteer use the standard TACC stack or does it have another special "autosteer tacc"?
 
I can't recall being able to use autosteer without TACC.

Exactly my point.

Stoplight control turns on with TACC. Having AS on or not is irrelevant.... it's ALSO on when AS is, because TACC is always on if AS is.


Autosteer use the standard TACC stack or does it have another special "autosteer tacc"?

TACC behavior is different when AS is engaged (the most obvious example is the much more stringent max speed cap)

I don't think anyone (outside of Tesla) has an exhaustive list of all the specific ways it's different, but it's for sure different.

Stoplight behavior to the best of my knowledge is not though.
 
Anecdotally I'd say the cars are designed in CA by CA residents and people in CA seem pretty happy with the performance in CA conditions..

sure, if by CA, you mean just Fremont.

Andrej Karpathy is from Slovakia. Lived there till he was 15. Then he spent a decade in Canada. Only then did he move to California to finish his PhD. I'm sure as the head of AI at Tesla, Karpathy is just thinking about making sure FSD only works in "California Conditions." :rolleyes:
 
What are you driving? My 2022 MYP is flawless when using autopilot or navigate on autopilot, and I use it for 150+ miles a day, on 5-7 freeways. its flawless when using the stop sign and stop light part as well. Seems like you have a grudge against Tesla, or your car is behaving badly. I don't see how in any way, regular AP is in beta.

And the safety score is not hard. at all. you just dont know how to play the game. I drive like a madman, on windy mountain freeways, and Bay Area traffic and have a perfect score.

Edit: And as proof that you just haven't figured out your car and expect it to be something its not. this is after 21,500 miles since opting in.

Figure it out.

View attachment 809082
Well,

Wish someone could clue me in on how to play the safety score game, because I certainly haven’t figured it out.
 
Well,

Wish someone could clue me in on how to play the safety score game, because I certainly haven’t figured it out.

Well you're from LA, so you're about as disadvantaged as they come. I had the pleasure of driving there for 2 months last summer. High safety score is doable (I've seen another Angeleno on this forum get a 100), but you have to really understand the mechanics and maybe do some gaming to keep a high score. And Ideally you use another car as your daily driver.

-edit-

lol the forum member I was thinking of is the person you replied to :D
 
It's been my observation that peoples experience of AP/FSD is extremely route dependent.
Some regions (Northeast) have older (narrower, no shoulders, zig-saggier), pothole ridden, poorly marked (salt & season wear) highways & bridges that well predate the Eisenhower highway system. Plus a wider range of variable weather conditions.

Anecdotally I'd say the cars are designed in CA by CA residents and people in CA seem pretty happy with the performance in CA conditions..
You should move to CA then. 😂
 
So "sucks compared to what" if not "what you imagine it should be"?
Ok sure I'll bite. It sucks compared to just having cruise control. Best cruise control system I ever used was on my 2008 BMW 3-series. You set that thing at 54mph and it would stay at 54mph. Not over, not under. Straight road, twisty road, flat, uphill, downhill, didn't matter. I loved it. It didn't brake for cars in front of me. That's ok, I can see them, and I can disengage the cruise control as needed. It also didn't brake for shadows of bridges, or cars that it thought were a hazard but weren't. Never once was I embarrassed because the car did something stupid, or scared because of unexpected braking.

Yes, I admit, it is nice that the Tesla will slow the car down for traffic in front of me, when that is what I want it to do. And it's kind of cool (but quite unnecessary) that it can steer itself, keep it centered in the lane, stuff like that. But the lack of control it gives me, and the its unpredictability, and frequent false positives outweigh all that for me.

And it also sucks compared to what I imagine it should be. Which is a perfectly valid thing to compare it to. Essentially, take away the phantom braking. Don't go slower than my grandma would drive just because there's a curve in the road. Make automatic wipers work as well as my 2008 BMW did, and make automatic high beams work as well as, well, just make them work. (Yes I know not part of AP but basic automation)

Honestly, if you're gonna call it "autopilot" and "full self driving," you are really just asking for people to compare it to what they imagine it should be, btw.
 
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Well you're from LA, so you're about as disadvantaged as they come. I had the pleasure of driving there for 2 months last summer. High safety score is doable (I've seen another Angeleno on this forum get a 100), but you have to really understand the mechanics and maybe do some gaming to keep a high score. And Ideally you use another car as your daily driver.

-edit-

lol the forum member I was thinking of is the person you replied to :D
Well,

You are correct, and driving here takes experience and guts. I’ve got safety score questioning my moves- but I know what I’m doing, been doing it a long time. I see it’s very difficult to get a good score here- but then, doesn’t seem anyone is getting FSD right now anyway- so I wonder, what’s the point of this? Might as well opt out and wait for a wider release.

My MXP is my daily driver- that’s what I bought it for. Much better than the Jeep I was driving.
 
Wish someone could clue me in on how to play the safety score game, because I certainly haven’t figured it out.

I've thought about making a guide on it, but a lot of it comes down to trusting your car (Which some people have a hard time doing for some reason), and "feeling" especially the aggressive turning/braking since it goes by G forces. I'll give it a shot.



I'm going to make this a post on the forum. hopefully it helps people and they dont just argue like everyone seems to love. I've now driven 21,500 miles with a safety score. My first month of learning my car and the score system, I had a 97. as scores rolled off, In the second month, I hit 100 and it's been basically perfect since. So If everyone wants to argue, my score is my response.

There are important things to remember though...

The Safety Score process is training you for FSD beta, and to be the type of driver they want testing the beta. Not everything it considers good/bad, is what WE would consider good/bad driving.

1. Requirements, that if you dont do, you can't complain about having a bad score. It's on you:

- READ TESLAS SAFETY SCORE FAQ. It's very technical, but important to attempt to understand.
- NEVER use TACC (Single stalk press), only use AP (Double stalk press).
- Turn on stop sign and stop light control.
- Turn on auto lane change without confirmation (Where possible)
- TRUST YOUR CAR and be ready to take over
- The goal is to let your car drive as much as possible. 90%+ of my drives are on AP/NoA. Aim for that %.

Everything can ding your score while using TACC, even though logically, letting the car control the speed should be counted as the car driving, not you... it is what it is. TACC brakes harder than you're allowed to (Especially if you have stop sign and stop light recognition turned on), and TACC can follow too closely over 50mph even at max following distance.

2. Hard Braking-

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.22.01 PM.png


This weighs heavily on your score. do NOT neglect this. It is hard to fix on the same drive where you knew you screwed up. Fixing this requires manual braking multiple times during your drive, and knowing very well, what your car considers hard braking.

The main culprits are yellow lights or being cut off... just double tap the stalk and engage AP. the car can brake hard and fast for yellow lights without impacting your score, and it has never once failed me or gone through a red light. Trust your car on this. If someone has their blinker on, or their tire crosses over into your alanewhile above 50mph, double tap the stalk, let the car handle it. your score wont be impacted. this is a hard one for people as it really relies on you trusting you vehicle. but give it a chance, and over time you'll get used to it.


3. Aggressive turning -
Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.17.13 PM.png


This takes some practice, but if you dont want to always use AP/NoA, when there is a yellow speed suggestion sign on curves, those signs are generally (90% of the time from my experience) telling you the speed that the road agency's know will cause your car to not go over a certain amount of G forces on the turn. Those speeds are meant for your average vehicle, with bad tires, because people are dumb and dont maintain their cars.Those speeds/G forces, line up with what Tesla says it aggressive turning. It's an interesting technical read if you feel like learning about it. especially on cloverleafs and highway exits Methods for Establishing Advisory Speed .


You should honestly just use NoA to handle exits and curves. it will slow down to the appropriate speed, maybe a little slower, but your score will be protected.

4. Forward Collision Warnings -

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.25.54 PM.png



This one is tricky... it's true that every now and then it will think a shadow is threat. or coming over a bit of a hill where it cant see the road curving after, it can go off. that's purely because it only has a split second to decide what's going to happen, and the car plays it safe. That is not really an error in the software. It's a good thing, but not for our scores. This is another reason to use AP or NoA as often as possible... even on city streets with lights and traffic. again, the safety score system is trying to get you used to using AP as much as possible, ready to take over when needed once you have the beta.

If you are accelerating, while someone within ~10 car lengths of you is decelerating, this will go off. AP and NoA are really the only way to avoid this consistently, since even if it goes off, nothing is scored while using AP/NoA

Another huge thing to consider with FCW's is the amount miles you drive as it factors this is as if you drove 1000 miles. If you drive 5 miles in a day, and get a FCW, that is like getting 200 FCW's in 100 miles. Maxing out this number to 101.9 for your day. I drive 150-350 miles a day so if I get a FCW, it usually ends up as a 4-7 for me instead of that 101.9 you would get driving short distances. This makes it very hard to get this number reduced after screwing up since most people drive less than 50 miles a day.

Bottom line with this one, is be hyper aware of cars ahead of you, and cars entering the roadway. stay out of the right lane incase someone brakes hard to go into a parking lot, or almost misses a turn.

Fortunately, these honestly will only take your score down 2-3% if you dont drive a lot. if you drive a lot, it'll take a 100 down to 99. not the end of the world.

Have I mentioned to just always use AP/NoA?

5. Unsafe Following -
Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.33.56 PM.png


This one is pretty simple once you understand it, and once again, relies on just using AP/NoA. But the key is remembering that it doesnt count until you hit 50MPH. most people get dinged on this at hwy/fwy onramps by not engaging AP until they are on the fwy/hwy in the left lane. I usually engage around 40-45mph on the ramp. Our cars are VERY good at merging into traffic safely. it will speed up or slow down properly, and merge well. it CAN have problems if the lane lines are funky at the point of merging. Sometimes it will put the blinker on and try to go to the next lane over immediately if the fwy/hwy left lane line goes away quickly and the merge section is long, causing you to skip the lane youre merging into. When that's the case, turn your blinker off after your car turns it on, and it'll merge properly.

The struggle here that causes people to complain "The score is broken! I didn't follow closely 30% of my drive blah blah blah," is that the time/% it considers is ONLY when there is actually a car ahead of you, in the 1-3 second range. so if you have a bad following moment, and then there is never a car ahead of you while going >50mph for the rest of your drive, your score is screwed. If you are closely behind someone for 3 seconds, and then at the proper distance for 7 seconds before they are out of your lane or farther ahead of you, then this score is only based on 3 seconds of driving close, out of the 10 seconds total of being a behind that car at a proper distance. Boom. 30% close following for your entire drive. even if you drove 1000 miles.

When driving around 65-80mph, the perfect distance is when on the screens visuallization, the lead car is touching the end of the NoA single path line, or the end of the AP dual path lines. Unsafe following distance changes based on speed, as it should for a person who's driving manually. That line does adjust because the visualization zooms out when going fast, and zooms in when going slow. sometimes its hard to notice this because we don't watch the zoom change while driving. use the line/s.

This ones extremely easy to fix through your drive when you know the maneuver you just did is going to count against you. Follow the end of the lead line rule. purposefully put yourself behind cars to fix your score.
 
Also, last I checked, I don't have 8 eyes with one of them on my butt.
You would if evolution required them.

My belief is that everything ultimately will come down to the supported ODD level, and the safety level within that ODD.

I don't believe my Tesla Model 3 with FSD will ever be capable of autonomous driving, but I do believe newer Tesla's with more advanced sensor suites will be.

So it can be viewed as evolving to meet the needs.

This thread is called "the catastrophe of fsd and the erosion of trust in Tesla". Which is really just a fancy way of sayings a failure, but failures aren't necessarily a bad thing in the big scope of things. Sometimes you need to fall down a few times to figure it all out.

I fully support Tesla trying to achieve autonomous driving, and I only disagree on selling it. Keep it as subscription only and give every new buyer auto-lane change with basic AP.
 
I've thought about making a guide on it, but a lot of it comes down to trusting your car (Which some people have a hard time doing for some reason), and "feeling" especially the aggressive turning/braking since it goes by G forces. I'll give it a shot.



I'm going to make this a post on the forum. hopefully it helps people and they dont just argue like everyone seems to love. I've now driven 21,500 miles with a safety score. My first month of learning my car and the score system, I had a 97. as scores rolled off, In the second month, I hit 100 and it's been basically perfect since. So If everyone wants to argue, my score is my response.

There are important things to remember though...

The Safety Score process is training you for FSD beta, and to be the type of driver they want testing the beta. Not everything it considers good/bad, is what WE would consider good/bad driving.

1. Requirements, that if you dont do, you can't complain about having a bad score. It's on you:

- READ TESLAS SAFETY SCORE FAQ. It's very technical, but important to attempt to understand.
- NEVER use TACC (Single stalk press), only use AP (Double stalk press).
- Turn on stop sign and stop light control.
- Turn on auto lane change without confirmation (Where possible)
- TRUST YOUR CAR and be ready to take over
- The goal is to let your car drive as much as possible. 90%+ of my drives are on AP/NoA. Aim for that %.

Everything can ding your score while using TACC, even though logically, letting the car control the speed should be counted as the car driving, not you... it is what it is. TACC brakes harder than you're allowed to (Especially if you have stop sign and stop light recognition turned on), and TACC can follow too closely over 50mph even at max following distance.

2. Hard Braking-

View attachment 809111

This weighs heavily on your score. do NOT neglect this. It is hard to fix on the same drive where you knew you screwed up. Fixing this requires manual braking multiple times during your drive, and knowing very well, what your car considers hard braking.

The main culprits are yellow lights or being cut off... just double tap the stalk and engage AP. the car can brake hard and fast for yellow lights without impacting your score, and it has never once failed me or gone through a red light. Trust your car on this. If someone has their blinker on, or their tire crosses over into your alanewhile above 50mph, double tap the stalk, let the car handle it. your score wont be impacted. this is a hard one for people as it really relies on you trusting you vehicle. but give it a chance, and over time you'll get used to it.


3. Aggressive turning - View attachment 809110

This takes some practice, but if you dont want to always use AP/NoA, when there is a yellow speed suggestion sign on curves, those signs are generally (90% of the time from my experience) telling you the speed that the road agency's know will cause your car to not go over a certain amount of G forces on the turn. Those speeds are meant for your average vehicle, with bad tires, because people are dumb and dont maintain their cars.Those speeds/G forces, line up with what Tesla says it aggressive turning. It's an interesting technical read if you feel like learning about it. especially on cloverleafs and highway exits Methods for Establishing Advisory Speed .


You should honestly just use NoA to handle exits and curves. it will slow down to the appropriate speed, maybe a little slower, but your score will be protected.

4. Forward Collision Warnings -

View attachment 809113


This one is tricky... it's true that every now and then it will think a shadow is threat. or coming over a bit of a hill where it cant see the road curving after, it can go off. that's purely because it only has a split second to decide what's going to happen, and the car plays it safe. That is not really an error in the software. It's a good thing, but not for our scores. This is another reason to use AP or NoA as often as possible... even on city streets with lights and traffic. again, the safety score system is trying to get you used to using AP as much as possible, ready to take over when needed once you have the beta.

If you are accelerating, while someone within ~10 car lengths of you is decelerating, this will go off. AP and NoA are really the only way to avoid this consistently, since even if it goes off, nothing is scored while using AP/NoA

Another huge thing to consider with FCW's is the amount miles you drive as it factors this is as if you drove 1000 miles. If you drive 5 miles in a day, and get a FCW, that is like getting 200 FCW's in 100 miles. Maxing out this number to 101.9 for your day. I drive 150-350 miles a day so if I get a FCW, it usually ends up as a 4-7 for me instead of that 101.9 you would get driving short distances. This makes it very hard to get this number reduced after screwing up since most people drive less than 50 miles a day.

Bottom line with this one, is be hyper aware of cars ahead of you, and cars entering the roadway. stay out of the right lane incase someone brakes hard to go into a parking lot, or almost misses a turn.

Fortunately, these honestly will only take your score down 2-3% if you dont drive a lot. if you drive a lot, it'll take a 100 down to 99. not the end of the world.

Have I mentioned to just always use AP/NoA?

5. Unsafe Following - View attachment 809123

This one is pretty simple once you understand it, and once again, relies on just using AP/NoA. But the key is remembering that it doesnt count until you hit 50MPH. most people get dinged on this at hwy/fwy onramps by not engaging AP until they are on the fwy/hwy in the left lane. I usually engage around 40-45mph on the ramp. Our cars are VERY good at merging into traffic safely. it will speed up or slow down properly, and merge well. it CAN have problems if the lane lines are funky at the point of merging. Sometimes it will put the blinker on and try to go to the next lane over immediately if the fwy/hwy left lane line goes away quickly and the merge section is long, causing you to skip the lane youre merging into. When that's the case, turn your blinker off after your car turns it on, and it'll merge properly.

The struggle here that causes people to complain "The score is broken! I didn't follow closely 30% of my drive blah blah blah," is that the time/% it considers is ONLY when there is actually a car ahead of you, in the 1-3 second range. so if you have a bad following moment, and then there is never a car ahead of you while going >50mph for the rest of your drive, your score is screwed. If you are closely behind someone for 3 seconds, and then at the proper distance for 7 seconds before they are out of your lane or farther ahead of you, then this score is only based on 3 seconds of driving close, out of the 10 seconds total of being a behind that car at a proper distance. Boom. 30% close following for your entire drive. even if you drove 1000 miles.

When driving around 65-80mph, the perfect distance is when on the screens visuallization, the lead car is touching the end of the NoA single path line, or the end of the AP dual path lines. Unsafe following distance changes based on speed, as it should for a person who's driving manually. That line does adjust because the visualization zooms out when going fast, and zooms in when going slow. sometimes its hard to notice this because we don't watch the zoom change while driving. use the line/s.

This ones extremely easy to fix through your drive when you know the maneuver you just did is going to count against you. Follow the end of the lead line rule. purposefully put yourself behind cars to fix your score.
Thank you!
 
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