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The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?

Discussion in 'Model 3: Interior & Exterior' started by mswlogo, Nov 28, 2018.

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  1. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    #1 mswlogo, Nov 28, 2018
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2018
    I've been hunting around for a nice jack for the Model 3. I don't plan on carrying a spare (yet) but I do have a nice tire repair kit and I have repaired many tires. It's not always so easy to repair a tire on the car. Especially if it's 5F out. I want the ability to rotate the wheel or remove it to ease repair.

    I went through several Amazon returns. Most Scissors Jack are absolute Chinese crap unless you buy some OEM one for another vehicle. I had almost settled on an electric hydraulic jack that worked great until I realized that it would be to tall if I had a flat.

    I found this on eBay. It's an old OEM Porsche Jack. There are tons of them on eBay, this one was mint.
    It appears all the Porsches that used this vintage jack are around 3000 lbs. Model 3 is 4000 lbs.
    I think because they are so light, strong and compact there is a market for them. There are probably 50 on ebay.

    It is the only aluminum scissor jack I could find.

    It is rated for 1000 Kg (2200 lbs).
    It weighs nothing (40 oz !!), it is very well made.
    It will jack from ~2.5" to ~10.5"
    You can probably use it fine on the body, I plan to only jack under the lower control arm (much easier, safer and only needs 2 inches of lift).
    There is a nub on top that I plan to remove. If you wanted it for the body you could trim that nub to fit exactly.
    Not sure how much lift you need on the body (part of the reason I hate jacking up from the body).
    But you could raise the jack on something to bring it flush before jacking. The jack has 8" of throw (not a lot).

    When sizing a jack you want it to go from flat tire on ground to fixed tire off ground.

    I ordered an extension crank from amazon. It probably weighs more than the jack.

    This image is with it lifting the Model 3 front wheel.

    [​IMG]

    I might be able to use this foam insert as is, in the lower trunk to keep it in place. (iPhone 6s reference, not a plus)

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    My Jack "kit" is all decked out now :) Also have a 20" x 1/2" ratchet extension not shown.
    I cut the foam out to fit the lug wrench (that extends), the 6pt 21mm socket, and a ratchet (which is used to drive the jack).

    [​IMG]

    I took the nub off and added some rubber to the jack
    [​IMG]

    I also added an adapter to the jack to allow 1/2" ratchet drive.
    [​IMG]
     
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  3. gilscales

    gilscales Active Member

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    #3 gilscales, Jan 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
  4. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    I actually had that on order and canceled it because it is not enough lift. It’s not even 6.5” of lift, it maxes out at 6.5” and it only has like 5” of throw. I called them and they said it’s for low vehicles so that you can jack it up enough to put another jack under it.

    Even you blocked it up under control arm with a flat tire “5 of lift is really tight.

    It’s actually “half” a scissors jack.

    I canceled it and bought the Porsche one.
     
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  5. Skione65

    Skione65 Member

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    #5 Skione65, Jan 4, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
    @mswlogo,

    How hard/easy is it to jack up the car from the body jack point with this jack? Specifically starting out. I just purchased a standard 2 ton scissor jack and Jesus H it’s virtually impossible (actually I couldn’t) jack the car up with it using the L crank that came with the jack. I have the same adapter coming you have for the socket and maybe that will help but right now this jacks going back as it’s not useable.
    I know when I get it higher on the throw the cranking will be easier but you can’t even get the lifting started as it is due to the difficulty of the leverage with the ends splayed out (flattened triangle).

    On another note how easy/difficult was it to remove that nub? is it riveted on, bolted on and what’s underneath it’s platform? What did you use and how did you go about it? Jury’s still out on this one.

    Ski
     
  6. Skione65

    Skione65 Member

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    @gilscales,

    Great....but don’t believe it’s going to work. Let me know. I almost pulled the trigger on one but it only lifts to 6” I believe...or 6 inches of throw. I went out and measured the 3 but I seriously don’t think it will even get the tire off the ground. Post some photos of the 3 at its highest point on the jack....preferably with a jack pad in as that’s what Ive got.

    Ski
     
  7. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    The lower control arm that I like to jack from (and for reference I certainly respect folks that prefer use the body jack point) is even lower. When I first got the Porsche jack I tested it with the standard Porsche crank which is very small (not much leverage) and needed to be under the car and had to be twisted with one hand by twisting my wrist (i.e. very little leverage) and I got it up. But because this jack starts so low it was not at its weakest leverage to start. I didn't test it with a flat tire though (I really should).

    I can't imaging it not lifting from the body (leverage wise) which is even higher to start. I'm not sure how high the body needs to go. Can you measure at the bottom of the jack point on the body how high up you need to be to get the tire in the air? I gave the height it jacks to in the opening post.

    This jack does have a nice bearing in it. Many cheap jacks don't. I liked this jack because it was small and light too.

    Yes, the nub is riveted on. I drilled out the rivets to get it off. You could mount a nice jack pad right on the jack. It's nice and flat to work with (another reason I liked this jack).

    I think the jack has enough throw for the body but you might have to block it up some.

    The socket adapter with a ratchet makes cranking it a breeze compared to the awkward hand cranks.
     
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  8. gilscales

    gilscales Active Member

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    I figured with the jack pad it may work but i'll wait till it arrives and see, could always put a small pc. of 2x6 under it for another 11/2" lift it that would work? I am a little concerned that 5" of lift is not going to work. I'll post when it arrives.
     
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  9. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    5” of lift won’t work.

    You have to add above 2” to the required lift with a flat tire. Now your down to 3” of lift.

    You could jack it, block it (the car), then block the jack and work your way up. But that defeats the purpose of a nice compact jack with all these blocks of wood you need to carry around.

    One shot from flat tire to fixed tire in the air via the body won’t work with that jack.

    Keep in mind it’s half a scissor jack which is why it has so little lift.

    Believe me I wanted that jack work. And I measured it would not work even under the control arm which is lower and needs a lot less lift. It was too close. I did call the company and they said it was designed to “pre jack” the car up to fit a normal jack under very low cars. Even though the video is misleading.

    Also note the video jacks up under the lower control arm. Like I do, which needs very little lift. It does not show jacking up a body which needs to extend the suspension, the flat, and tire compression.

    Keep in mind terrain your on might not be a nice flat garage floor either.
     
  10. gilscales

    gilscales Active Member

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    You are probably right, I hope your wrong but it does seem like it will be a no go, from my perfectly flat garage floor I installed one of the aluminum jack pucks and I am 4" off the floor now, If we measure from the the wheel center to the lift point we are approx. 27" so we do get a little boost from a shorter leverage point (about 24%) now the 2" drop in the flat is about 1.5" at the puck, the jack is 1.5" so we are now 1" from the puck with the jack.

    If we then carry a pc. of 5" wide by 13" long 3/4" plywood (the size of the base of the jack) we are blocked to within a 1/4" of the puck with 4.75" lift x 1.31 is over 6.2" of lift, will that be enough to account for the suspension droop to get a filled tire back on, I don't know but I'll find out when the jack comes.

    When you measured under the control arm did you figure that you would need a block under the jack? I just measured and the control arms are almost 6" from the floor to start, with 4" after a flat you would have to start with at least 2" of blocking to give the jack a chance for close to maximum travel.
     
  11. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    Yes, I assumed I’d have to block up that Jack. I forget the exact numbers. But I think I figured 2” for flat (worst case), about 2” of lift required to get tire off ground. 1” clearance. And you need a little space between jack and control arm to start. And the ground might not be perfect where you need it. And I think that jack has 5” of lift. Might work in perfect situation. But between having to block it, not sure of it working in less than ideal cases, and how expensive it was I canceled it. It’s a very cool jack.

    I thought I measured the lower control arm a bit lower than 6” (doesn’t matter though).

    You can measure how much lift you need with any old jack. Just measure the delta of car down and tire up at the jack point. Then add 2” inches for a flat. My guess is you’ll be on the order of 8 or 9 inches of lift needed.

    I was glad I canceled because it forced me to try the Porsche Jack. Which is perfect and much cheaper. Not sure if half a scissor jack has half the leverage. But it also depends on how fine a pitch the screw is. If it’s to fine it’s gonna take a long time to hand crank it up. And I was not gonna carry a charged cordless drill around in the car. Along with blocks of wood.
     
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  12. kappadon3

    kappadon3 Member

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    I recently tried to utilize the underside of the back dash in the trunk to stow some portions of my emergency kit. Mainly the jack, crank, and lug. the compressor and patch tool kit i keep in the deep well of the trunk along with my charger cords. I was going to use a roll of velcro, but the zipties worked better. We will see how it holds up on bumpy roads. hopfully there are no rattles. I am not the best at posting so I hope this all shows up well. Maybe it will inspire others.

    here are a few pics
    View attachment 366404 View attachment 366405 View attachment 366406 View attachment 366407 View attachment 366408
     

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  13. brianman

    brianman Burrito Founder

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    Link?
     
  14. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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  15. gilscales

    gilscales Active Member

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    So I just got my jack from eBay and I am so impressed by the size, weight, power, lift height of this thing that I have to personally thank you for this thread!

    I went a slightly different route and (sloppily) cut down the nub to fit in the jack point holes because I thought it may be a tighter fit and not as safe as if I were to use a jack puck under the jack.

    Works so well and has so much room to work with that i'm confident no matter the terrain this little beast will handle it well,.

    Got my jack only for $60 in like new condition and another $12 for the socket adapter, WAY better deal that the other jack that I am now sure would not have worked, thanks again!

    Only problem is that it is so compact I have more room for other crap in the Frunk!
     

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  16. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    Looks like it has plenty of lift for the body.

    I think it might have more leverage than that billet jack too.

    That doesn’t look too bad reshaping the nub.

    Hope you never need it ;)
     
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  17. ShaneXman

    ShaneXman Member

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    Love, love, LOVE this idea. I loved it so much that I just picked one of these Porsche jacks up from eBay today, new and unused (with foam). Thank you VERY much for putting this thread up, and for the idea. :)

    With that said, would you be able to post up a list (preferably with links) of the other items you gathered to complete this perfect Model 3 emergency jack solution? Extension crank, 1/2" ratchet drive adapter, 20" x 1/2" ratchet extension, etc.

    Also, what did you use to trim the foam so perfect? A standard utility blade? Any tips or tricks?

    I would greatly appreciate any and all help. Thanks in advance!


    -Shane
     
  18. mswlogo

    mswlogo Active Member

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    This ratchet (nothing special)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CCGNDN8

    Adapter to drive Jack with 1/2" drive
    I think I had to grind the drive loop on the jack just a fraction to get this adapter to slip over.
    I also shortened the bolt with a grinder.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYR28VM

    This "Tire Iron"
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1JNZP0

    I ended up using a very old Craftsman Extension I had (40 years old?). I bought one on Amazon but it wasn't so slender and to heavy.
    It looks just like the long one in the middle of this auction photo
    Vintage Craftsman 3/8" 1/2" Drive -V- Series Extension Set Lot - 3" 6" 10" 20" | eBay

    You only need this extension if you plan jack under the suspension. If you plan to jack at the jack points you probably don't need any extension or perhaps just a 6 inch.

    BTW, if you do want to jack from suspension there is one other thing I did. There are plastic covers covering the bottom of rear suspension.
    There is like a 1/4 gap between the plastic cover and the strut/shock mount. I wedge a piece or PVC (trim board I cut) in there to fill the gap. This prevents the cover from cracking.

    I just hacked away at the foam with a utility knife. I forget if I used any other tools. It's not quite as "neat" as the photo suggests. But they stay put fairly well. I tried to use existing notches as much as possible.
     
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  19. ShaneXman

    ShaneXman Member

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    Thank you, kindly! :)


    -Shane
     
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  20. ShaneXman

    ShaneXman Member

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    Well, I ended up picking up a never used, Porsche 996/986/986S Tire Jack/Crank-Handle in Foam Fit-N-Spare (Part #: 000.721.711.05) just as mswlogo purchased for his setup in this thread. Since purchasing, I've decided to abandon this project as I still don't have my Model 3 Performance, and I'm not sure when I will be getting it.

    If anybody is interested, I will sell this one for $100.00 SHIPPED (48 Contiguous United States) via UPS Ground, Insured with Tracking...and I'll cover the PayPal fees. I will also include UPS' "Signature Confirmation Required" service free of charge to ensure it gets into your hands and not some porch pirate's. [​IMG]

    If you're interested in picking up locally (Orange County, CA), we can work a better deal to reflect the savings from PayPal, packing materials and shipping.

    Either way, shoot me a message to work out the details if you're interested. Cheers to all!

    s-l1600.jpg s-l1600 (1).jpg s-l1600 (2).jpg s-l1600 (3).jpg s-l1600 (4).jpg
     

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