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The perfect Model 3 emergency jack?

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It also takes seconds to destroy it. Today my jack has collapsed with car being raised...
When using scissors jacks, I would recommend using two scissors jacks, like one on the front point and one at the rear point,
to move up each jack point like one inch at the time, which help when turning the wrench, otherwise it might be too hard to do so.

Note: My floor jack has wheels, and I noticed that when using it, it rolls a little bit when lifting my car.
So regarding the @Mash scissor jack collapsing, I imagine that the scissor was a little bit bending when lifting the car.

Using two scissors could had prevented it by allowing to unscrew a little bit one of the scissor jacks,
while having the second scissor jack supporting the whole car for a moment,
to re-adjust the scissor jack position so it would not be bending anymore.

In my area, there have been several catalytic converters stolens during the night,
and recently one robber died after his scissor jack collapsed while he was under the car.

I would never crawl under my car with only a scissor jack supporting it, and would put first some stands to support the car weight.
 
When using scissors jacks, I would recommend using two scissors jacks, like one on the front point and one at the rear point,
to move up each jack point like one inch at the time, which help when turning the wrench, otherwise it might be too hard to do so.

Note: My floor jack has wheels, and I noticed that when using it, it rolls a little bit when lifting my car.
So regarding the @Mash scissor jack collapsing, I imagine that the scissor was a little bit bending when lifting the car.

Using two scissors could had prevented it by allowing to unscrew a little bit one of the scissor jacks,
while having the second scissor jack supporting the whole car for a moment,
to re-adjust the scissor jack position so it would not be bending anymore.

In my area, there have been several catalytic converters stolens during the night,
and recently one robber died after his scissor jack collapsed while he was under the car.

I would never crawl under my car with only a scissor jack supporting it, and would put first some stands to support the car weight.
I wouldn't crawl under any car with any jack. Even the big lifts in shops have safeties.
One safety trick I often did was slide the wheel under the car as a backup, if it was available.

As far as rolling around, that is yet another reason I prefer lift at the suspension. Since I'm only doing 2" of lift it doesn't want to move.
When you lift from the body things can move and lean a lot.
 
Jack has failed - screw thread has failed and it just collapsed. I will do some pics tomorrow.
Were you using an impact wrench by chance? I personally wouldn't. Because it's hard to feel if something is not moving right and you can over torque it.
You could also easily pass the "Stop" with an impact wrench.

Curious to see where it failed though.

I have plenty of confidence in this jack, I've lifted my Model X and a Jeep Grand Cherokee with it. Hand cranked with a ratchet.
Even well made things can fail. And it's hard to know if the one you got might have been abused.

It's rated for 3000 lbs which is plenty to lift a corner of a Model 3.

Note that a scissor jack has the least leverage when fully collapsed. And most when extended (and where it could be easy to strip the threads)
 
Were you using an impact wrench by chance? I personally wouldn't. Because it's hard to feel if something is not moving right and you can over torque it.
You could also easily pass the "Stop" with an impact wrench.

Curious to see where it failed though.

I have plenty of confidence in this jack, I've lifted my Model X and a Jeep Grand Cherokee with it. Hand cranked with a ratchet.
Even well made things can fail. And it's hard to know if the one you got might have been abused.

It's rated for 3000 lbs which is plenty to lift a corner of a Model 3.

Note that a scissor jack has the least leverage when fully collapsed. And most when extended (and where it could be easy to strip the threads)
I used that jack a lot and over time it was harder and harder to rotate it. Last time I was in a rush to change a wheel and used 1,000ft-lbs milwaukee impact wrench at full power. And it wasn't moving up very fast. But I'm quite certain that rotating it by hand was impossible at this point anyway.
 
20210424_124536.jpg

So that nut has completely stripped it's threading. Now you can freely move it up and down without rotating anything. And it's not serviceable
 
Think worst case On the side of highway, at night, when it’s 0F out. It’s sometimes safer and easier to take the wheel off and do it inside the warm protected car. Getting the plug into a frozen tire is not easy either. Easier to inspect and inflate all inside the cabin.
A little late to the thread, but would you go into a car to repair the tire being supported only by a scissor jack? Just seems a bit dangerous. But then again, if you are going to die because of where you are, I guess that's a risk to take!
 
A little late to the thread, but would you go into a car to repair the tire being supported only by a scissor jack? Just seems a bit dangerous. But then again, if you are going to die because of where you are, I guess that's a risk to take!
Yes, I wouldn't think twice about it. What's it gonna do, drop a whopping 4" onto shocks? What's the big danger?

Lot safer in the car than on the side of the road.

Oh, BTW that is another reason I like to jack from the suspension. The car stays LEVEL and is much more stable (only 1" above normal is needed).
It's lifting less load than putting the jack under the body (which will often lift the whole side of the car, especially with the Model 3). And if it did drop it's a long ways down if you lift from the "Jack Point". I shake my head every time I see someone jack up any car that way. More likely to roll, or slip, more load on jack, jack is extended more so more vulnerable, in the event it does fall it's gonna do more damage. It's just a really stupid way to jack up a car for a flat.
 
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Yes, I wouldn't think twice about it. What's it gonna do, drop a whopping 4" onto shocks? What's the big danger?

Lot safer in the car than on the side of the road.

Oh, BTW that is another reason I like to jack from the suspension. The car stays LEVEL and is much more stable (only 1" above normal is needed).
It's lifting less load than putting the jack under the body (which will often lift the whole side of the car, especially with the Model 3). And if it did drop it's a long ways down if you lift from the "Jack Point". I shake my head every time I see someone jack up any car that way. More likely to roll, or slip, more load on jack, jack is extended more so more vulnerable, in the event it does fall it's gonna do more damage. It's just a really stupid way to jack up a car for a flat.
can you share an image or tutorial video, how best to place jack under the arm.
what kind of pad is best suited for this?
 
A little late to the thread, but would you go into a car to repair the tire being supported only by a scissor jack? Just seems a bit dangerous. But then again, if you are going to die because of where you are, I guess that's a risk to take!
I just rotated the tires w/ 1 AL sissor jack, and one floor jack to lift up one side at a time. Works fine. I got my AL scissor jack off ebay. It was a used porche jack. I had to grind the nub off the top a bit to fit the Tesla hole when I first got it.
 
View attachment 635718 View attachment 635716 I got an OEM Porsche aluminum jack from eBay and have been sorely disappointed! I cleaned it up and regreased the thread. I couldn’t manage to get a rear tire up on solid ground because I absolutely destroyed the skinny aluminum wrench (the aluminum bent stick with a handle on one end and a hook on the other).

I got a scissor jack to 13/16” or 1/2” drive adapter and managed to get the car up, but not without serious warping by the time the tire cleared the ground. I used chocks on the other side and I think the jack may have called it quits without the chocks!

I think I’m going to keep searching for a sturdier scissor jack. I’m not sure any of the usual suspects on Amazon look any better...almost all of the popular ones have some photos of them failing.
Would you be so kind as to tell me where I can get and what is the name/part number of the socket adaptor you bolted onto the jack?
Thank you
Roger Satterfield
email: [email protected]
 
Would you be so kind as to tell me where I can get and what is the name/part number of the socket adaptor you bolted onto the jack?
Thank you
Roger Satterfield
email: [email protected]
Sorry to hear the problems you've had with the jack. Scissor jacks, ideally should be put under the car parallel with the car and not perpendicular as would seem to be easier. It puts less strain on the jack with the scissors facing the front and rear of the car instead of from side to side. I hope this makes sense. Sorry no photos. They can still collapse , but less likely when used with the ends facing the front and rear of the vehicle. I too, have ordered the same jack. Praying I don't have the same experience.
Roger Satterfield,
Marietta, Ga
 
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For road emergency, I have a small aluminium jack (was from an Audi TT) that I use under the front holding point.
And a 2-Ton scissor jack that I use under the rear holding point.
I raise alternatively each jack for about one inch, it is much easier to do so than to try to lift a Tesla with a single scissor and a small wrench !!!
 
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View attachment 635718 View attachment 635716 I got an OEM Porsche aluminum jack from eBay and have been sorely disappointed! I cleaned it up and regreased the thread. I couldn’t manage to get a rear tire up on solid ground because I absolutely destroyed the skinny aluminum wrench (the aluminum bent stick with a handle on one end and a hook on the other).

I got a scissor jack to 13/16” or 1/2” drive adapter and managed to get the car up, but not without serious warping by the time the tire cleared the ground. I used chocks on the other side and I think the jack may have called it quits without the chocks!

I think I’m going to keep searching for a sturdier scissor jack. I’m not sure any of the usual suspects on Amazon look any better...almost all of the popular ones have some photos of them failing.

I don’t like lifting from the body for some of the reasons you show. It can be a problem with lots of jacks. Lifting one corner high tends to move a bit. And if you are on the side of road ground can be soft and you might be on a hill. The less height you need the better. So even a floor jack with wheels will often sink and not roll. Again it’s all because your lifting so high under the body. So I don’t :). Solves lots of problems.

Most all Amazon scissors jack are junk. Most jacks that come OEM with cars are much beefier. The porche was just more compact and light weight.

I thought of using a small aluminum hydraulic. But they are heavy, bulky and can leak oil. Really good ones are expensive. Cheap ones can have issues. I’ve had quite a few floor jacks. I would not want any of them in my car. My favorite is an old sears alum jack. But it’s huge.

The porche jack just worked for me. I’ve used it on my X, Jeep GC and Model 3. Usually under suspension, but sometimes under the body (when helping a friend who didn’t want it jacked under suspension). It’s harder on the car too.