camber is very important or flipping tires and lots of wheel rotating.
or change your alignment a lot
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The quest for wider wheels and tires, 295, 305 and beyond...
- Thread starter Davidss2
- Start date
or change your alignment a lot
TacoSteve
Closed
Sur4g? on track or autox? what camber? I think we'd need to flip every two events to really get the life out. 4 events and mine are done on the outside edge. running -3.1 camber for two events and -3,7 for the other two.
P3D-R
Closed
Generally a 10.5 with the amount of camber we run is going to be +30 to +35. It's hard for me to answer these questions without knowing your setup so I'm very gun shy to make a blanket statement.
What is the Upright mod? 10.5” are fine without anything on my car. I need 11” though & more worried about how they fit the rear. Front I can cut or something. Rear has more inner space than the +25 10.5” use.
P3D-R
Closed
Those who don't want to push out too far with spacers can shave the upright. The trick is finding a square setup that you can use in the front and the rear so you can rotate. That's why I have the offset I have. It's based on the front spacing limitation of the rear with the camber I have. You can run the 10.5 +25 but then the rear needs modification. I have done many hypergram fitments and am familiar with the mods needed in the rear. It's definitely better on a performance oem rotor. 11" +40 in the rear is ideal imo but up front it's way too much work imo.
10.5” +25 rear fits fine, I have 3P-w/ small MPP rotors. These wheels rotate just fine & tires wear even. Rear’s don’t even really need the camber for A7, maybe for the nexens.
…So 11” Koni have too low offsets(15)
Maybe I’ll just run 1 more set of 295 A7 for hills this year and go for local ASP records
All I can find that seems ‘reasonable’ and I think could work are 11” TE37 w/ 30 offsets ($4k for a set though but $2k for tires)
…So 11” Koni have too low offsets(15)
Maybe I’ll just run 1 more set of 295 A7 for hills this year and go for local ASP records
All I can find that seems ‘reasonable’ and I think could work are 11” TE37 w/ 30 offsets ($4k for a set though but $2k for tires)
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P3D-R
Closed
10.5” +25 rear fits fine, I have 3P-w/ small MPP rotors. These wheels rotate just fine & tires wear even. Rear’s don’t even really need the camber for A7, maybe for the nexens.
…So 11” Koni have too low offsets(15)
Maybe I’ll just run 1 more set of 295 A7 for hills this year and go for local ASP records
All I can find that seems ‘reasonable’ and I think could work are 11” TE37 w/ 30 offsets ($4k for a set though but $2k for tires)
That's interesting. Mind if I ask some questions? What is your ride height, hub to fender, and complete tire size? Are you running 295/35/18 with MPP rotors and no rubs? Can you share your rear camber settings and a photo? I am intrigued but the fact that you haven't had any clearance issues so just want to wrap my head around the whole picture.
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I think my rear camber is about -3. I did all of my own alignment and had it checked once. It was -3,5/3.8 and I took a tiny bit out. Coils may have settled since I had the measurements done? Hub center to fender is 14 1/2”….this is the only picture I have on me. Car has 235RE on enkei currently, makes autocross closer in times w/ others
more challenging. I spun this weekend even 
Nexen 275 were tighter. I need to raise my car a little, my sway bar and front hits the ground in hill climbs
Sur4G, Autocross (60+ second courses on mainly asphalt, small concrete section), stock camber, driven 99% on course I drove home on them once, maybe twice. I'm no alien but I did win my local non "pro" class, averaging 8th in PAX.
P3D-R
Closed
I think my rear camber is about -3. I did all of my own alignment and had it checked once. It was -3,5/3.8 and I took a tiny bit out. Coils may have settled since I had the measurements done? Hub center to fender is 14 1/2”….this is the only picture I have on me. Car has 235RE on enkei currently, makes autocross closer in times w/ others
Nexen 275 were tighter. I need to raise my car a little, my sway bar and front hits the ground in hill climbs
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You are running more camber in the rear than what I was expecting so this does make more sense. I'm basing my fitment information on around -2.7 front and -2.3 or so rear at which point we do have clearance issues. As for tires, I am also basing this info off a 295/35/18, 26.1"OD, or a 275/40/18, 26.7" OD. The 275 Sur4G is as wide as my 295 Falken 510 street tires in terms of section width. That may explain where the 10.5 +25 works better for you in the rear than it would for me. In my experience with the camber we need a 10.5 +30 to +35 would be ideal and not require fender mods.
Ya, the A7 are only 25.3” diameter and would probably work on your setup. nexen 275 only had issues in the front when I was at Laguna seca. Maybe because I had no front sway bar though? …They rolled my fenders a bit for me 
.
315A7 is my goal. Maybe Walmart fender bits and a saw. Gonna hurt to do that to a good 1/4 panel though
.315A7 is my goal. Maybe Walmart fender bits and a saw. Gonna hurt to do that to a good 1/4 panel though
P3D-R
Closed
You have plenty of backspacing in the rear. What are you trying to accomplish? I would be more concerned with the fender side. What size wheel will you run in the front?
Ran the 18x10.5, +22 square setup for the first time this past weekend at an auto-x.
Tires are 275/35/18 nitto (I believe NT05s).
These tires are 1-1.2" in diameter smaller than OEM tires.
We had to roll the fronts, and will probably slightly roll the rears (think there was some rubbing on the rear fender liner, but will be confirming no actual rear fender contact this week).
I will likely lower the car another 1/2" after finishing the air cup kit, and will get another alignment/confirm specs then (haven't checked alignment since raising car 1/2" 6-9 months ago).
If I have an inch clearance between the edge of the front rotor and the barrel of the wheel, I should be good on running the 380mm (vs current 368mm) rotors, correct? (Running @MountainPass Stoptech kit.)
Thanks @MountainPass and local shop for rushing me brake parts, and enabling me to get the car back together in time for this weekend's event!
Tires are 275/35/18 nitto (I believe NT05s).
These tires are 1-1.2" in diameter smaller than OEM tires.
We had to roll the fronts, and will probably slightly roll the rears (think there was some rubbing on the rear fender liner, but will be confirming no actual rear fender contact this week).
I will likely lower the car another 1/2" after finishing the air cup kit, and will get another alignment/confirm specs then (haven't checked alignment since raising car 1/2" 6-9 months ago).
If I have an inch clearance between the edge of the front rotor and the barrel of the wheel, I should be good on running the 380mm (vs current 368mm) rotors, correct? (Running @MountainPass Stoptech kit.)
Thanks @MountainPass and local shop for rushing me brake parts, and enabling me to get the car back together in time for this weekend's event!
this is my Nexen 275 tires on a new set of the 10.5" 18 Konigs. the front has MPP uppers and upper shock mount nuts(?not hats) tightened under load to try and get the most camber I could. I'm gonna get some of the UPP front 1/4 probably or cut this nice side and do something janky!? next A7 set I'd like 315s but I need to figure out wheels if anyone has suggestions, please share! & I think 19"s make more sense for those since they have a bit more tread width and are cheaper
...my 1/4 rolled itself at laguna seca with no front sway bar and these tires. A7 295 never touched even on bumpy hill climbs
I forgot to add it to this thread - the MPP Euro M3P!
Aspira AF10 19x10.5 +30 effective offset
305/30/19 Nankang AR-1 all around with OEM bodywork
Aspira AF10 19x10.5 +30 effective offset
305/30/19 Nankang AR-1 all around with OEM bodywork
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