Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

The quest for wider wheels and tires, 295, 305 and beyond...

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Well, then some of them are wrong ;) It's simple math, there are not different answers.
Specific tires do have section widths that aren't exactly the nominal, but you could only tell that by looking at a specific tire datasheet.
The 'simple math' is only a first approximation. Whether the more advanced tire model used at my link is any more useful is unclear though, given the variance between manufacturers and even different batches of the same tire from the same manufacturer.
 
I just calculated the outer diameter from the tire size. Those numbers are just on the spreadsheet to see theoretically how close to stock OD each size is. The real point of this matrix is tire availability by size.
No love for Nexen?

I swear there was a 285/35/19 for RE71-RS since I considered it, but I guess it's sold out and TR has no plans to reorder, so it's gone from the list.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zextraterrestrial
For my non-Performance Model 3, I would like to make the following square fitment work.

20x10.5 +35
285/30R20 (most likely PS all-seasons or DWS06)

I believe this would be comparable to a +32 or +31 setup with a P model. Will I need a front spacer to clear the knuckle? I know it will be close. I reviewed the thread but couldn't find conclusive evidence one way or the other.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lindenwood
I believe this would be comparable to a +32 or +31 setup with a P model. Will I need a front spacer to clear the knuckle? I know it will be close.
Like you say, very close, but I think it's on the wrong side.
You are right this would be the same a +32 on a M3P, given the 3mm lip.

However, I am running 275's on +35 wheels on a M3P, and it barely fits. There's a bit of a polish on my upright where the tire just brushes it under some load conditions. A 285 would theoretically add 5mm to each side, so you'd be 2mm worse than a 275 on a M3P. In the end it will come down to your exact tires and how wide they really are.

Most M3P's run an offset of around +25 when running 10.5" wheels, and then run a 285/295 tire. That's equivalent to running a +28 for you, but that's still 7mm off from your +35 fitment. This generally requires some camber as well to not hit the fender at full compression.

Are you looking for such a wide tire and fitment for looks or performance? I'll say it's a bit of an odd choice to trade such an aggressive fitment and the massive range reduction it will cause along with non-performance tires. Most people going this aggressive are in it for actual performance increase, and have the other supporting bits such as running more camber and better shocks. I run 265's on the street which fits great on a +35 wheel and gives all the performance you can really ask for in that environment without any fitment issues and a reasonable trade on range hit.
 
Like you say, very close, but I think it's on the wrong side.
You are right this would be the same a +32 on a M3P, given the 3mm lip.

However, I am running 275's on +35 wheels on a M3P, and it barely fits. There's a bit of a polish on my upright where the tire just brushes it under some load conditions. A 285 would theoretically add 5mm to each side, so you'd be 2mm worse than a 275 on a M3P. In the end it will come down to your exact tires and how wide they really are.

Most M3P's run an offset of around +25 when running 10.5" wheels, and then run a 285/295 tire. That's equivalent to running a +28 for you, but that's still 7mm off from your +35 fitment. This generally requires some camber as well to not hit the fender at full compression.

Are you looking for such a wide tire and fitment for looks or performance? I'll say it's a bit of an odd choice to trade such an aggressive fitment and the massive range reduction it will cause along with non-performance tires. Most people going this aggressive are in it for actual performance increase, and have the other supporting bits such as running more camber and better shocks. I run 265's on the street which fits great on a +35 wheel and gives all the performance you can really ask for in that environment without any fitment issues and a reasonable trade on range hit.

Thanks for the info. I agree, it's not a rational fitment. It's completely for looks. This car is really just my commuter and it rarely goes on long trips... We use our LR Model Y for that. I have a fender roller from my E46 days that I would use on the front fenders. I'd like to not add extra camber if possible.
 
Thanks for the info. I agree, it's not a rational fitment. It's completely for looks. This car is really just my commuter and it rarely goes on long trips... We use our LR Model Y for that. I have a fender roller from my E46 days that I would use on the front fenders. I'd like to not add extra camber if possible.
The good news is that the front fenders are easily pulled by hand. You can pull them out around 5mm without making it obvious at all. I think that if you run those 285s without any additional camber, there will be situations where it is possible to hit the tire on the fender. We managed to do it with 275s and stock camber when hitting a curb on the track at full lock. It yanked the fender inside out in that one spot!
 
It's completely for looks.
Slap some 15mm/20mm spacer/adapters and call it good. Otherwise be prepared to spend several grand to make it work properly.

Most M3P's run an offset of around +25 when running 10.5" wheels, and then run a 285/295 tire. That's equivalent to running a +28 for you, but that's still 7mm off from your +35 fitment. This generally requires some camber as well to not hit the fender at full compression.
Most M3Ps run +25 18x10.5 wheels with some kind of upgraded rotors, which push things out 4-5mm.
Going to 19 and 20" wheels buys some extra clearance due to the curvature of the upright.
My 19x10.5 +32 wheels clear the upright with a couple mm to spare on MPP rotors, so an effective +31 on non-performance rotors.
Going to 20" wheels will probably buy another couple mm, which makes it theoretically possible to fit a +35 20x10.5 wheel with a 3mm spacer. Any thicker plain spacer wouldn't be safe w/o extended studs.

But with clearances this tight it's gonna be trial and error approach.
 
The good news is that the front fenders are easily pulled by hand. You can pull them out around 5mm without making it obvious at all. I think that if you run those 285s without any additional camber, there will be situations where it is possible to hit the tire on the fender. We managed to do it with 275s and stock camber when hitting a curb on the track at full lock. It yanked the fender inside out in that one spot!

Ha, my buddy did the same thing in his E46 M3. Peeled the fender lip inside out.

For me, the car will (sadly) be seeing no opposite lock.
 
Slap some 15mm/20mm spacer/adapters and call it good. Otherwise be prepared to spend several grand to make it work properly.
That's a bit overkill too. Even just a 15mm spacer on an ET35 wheel on a non-P is like running ET17 wheels on a P, This is going to poke quite a bit, and at some point, your problem will be hitting the fender even in more mild conditions. I don't think it's a guarantee that 10.5" ET17 wheels with 285 tires is a for sure fit. A 5-10mm spacer is much more likely to work here, but the issue is that a 5-10mm spacer can't exist with stock wheel lugs.

Going to 19 and 20" wheels buys some extra clearance due to the curvature of the upright.
The upright is not where most 19" or 20" wheels will hit. The 285 tire, which is nominally 11.25" in width will hit before the 10.5" rim. The curve of the upright is mostly an issue with 18" wheels.

unless front bump travel is constrained by aftermarket suspension.
I tend to prefer similar or more travel out of my aftermarket suspension. What setups out there allow less compression than stock?
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Lindenwood
That's a bit overkill too.
That's what plenty of people on this board have done for looks instead of wider wheels. So, with OEM 8.5-wide wheels/OEM-sized
The upright is not where most 19" or 20" wheels will hit. The 285 tire, which is nominally 11.25" in width will hit before the 10.5" rim. The curve of the upright is mostly an issue with 18" wheels.
I don't think so. For me, fitting 305-wide tires required about adding ~4mm spacer on top of the wheel fitment described above. A 285-wide wheel would not have required one, and wheel to upright clearance would've been the binding constraint.
I tend to prefer similar or more travel out of my aftermarket suspension. What setups out there allow less compression than stock?
Preserving the compression stroke while also lowering is gonna be challenging....
I had to reduce the compression stoke with my RW Ohlins to fit 305s. No way in hell it would've worked otherwise w/o like 5 degrees of camber. The fact that people on MPPs were able to fit 305 first tells me that the compression stroke on those is also set so that wide wheels would be able to turn at full bump w/o ripping the fender apart. While I have not measured the compression stroke on OEM dampers, I think the wheel will go deeper into the wheel well.
 
I just speed-read this thread...again. Looking for some advice from people with experience:

Currently stock 2022 M3P. I have MPP FUCA and rear camber arms on order. Other than those, I will be all stock for now, until I eventually spring for MPP Sport Coilovers.

Trying to decide on wheels and tires for track and autocross. I will add camber when installing these, and then put camber back to road specs for my DD wheels and tires. I have settled on 275/35/19 tire size. Now wheels are the puzzle.

19x9.5: Lots of available options, but kind of narrow for 275s.

19x10: Seem to be a good option, but not much available at a reasonable price.

19x10.5: Concerned that this won't fit.

Wheel size advice?