-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
The Unofficial Aftermarket Air Suspension Thread
- Thread starter Thomas Edison
- Start date
I love my Airtekk kit it took some time to dial in, but now it rides great airs up and down super quickly too.
Model 3 on Airtekk
Model 3 on Airtekk
You can change stiffness. It rides like a model s for me. I had to firm up the rear since it carries more weight in my car
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I have my presets set up so that everything is level when my bags are inflated.
It depends on what management you go for. Cost would be:
- Bags & Struts
- Install
- alignment
- management
Airtekk $1600
Airlift 3P $1600 (+500 if you want 3H height based system)
Install around $1000 for Pressure only and $1500 for Height also. Install price varies by shop.
What kind of pressures are you getting at ride height? Will it fully lift the car close to factory ride height?
I’m an inch lower, but can adjust the fixed strut higher. I find my sweet spot pressure to be around 60 psi living in NY we have crappier roads so the height is important to me. I’m about 1 finger lower than stock on my level 2 setting. Max pressure around 80 psi put me at stock height. It just depends on how you tune it
Just finished my install of the Airtekk bags on my LR RWD. Ran into a bit of issues on the rear strut top mount. The threaded rod was too long, ended up cutting about 3/8" off to fit flush.
I also had to adjust the rear strut height a bit because it can go damn low or high!
Still figuring out the front strut heights - current setting of the mount fully threaded (low) seems to be a bit too low. The bumper rests on the ground so I'm going to raise it just it by so air'd out will have maybe 1/8" clearance from the ground. My driver side seems to go really low, the upper control arm (when air'd out) protrudes into the frunk which contacts the frunk tub and pops that corner up. Luckily tested everything with the hood open, otherwise thats a dented hood! I'll be adjusting the strut height to see if i can eliminate this issue.
I also had to adjust the rear strut height a bit because it can go damn low or high!
Still figuring out the front strut heights - current setting of the mount fully threaded (low) seems to be a bit too low. The bumper rests on the ground so I'm going to raise it just it by so air'd out will have maybe 1/8" clearance from the ground. My driver side seems to go really low, the upper control arm (when air'd out) protrudes into the frunk which contacts the frunk tub and pops that corner up. Luckily tested everything with the hood open, otherwise thats a dented hood! I'll be adjusting the strut height to see if i can eliminate this issue.
The passenger side was OK, my driver side definitely would have damaged the hood. I’ll be adjusting the height of the strut and checking again.
Def a diff. On all the cars ive owned in the past one side is a bit higher than the other.
I’m still perfecting mine. When airing out don’t go too low because it’ll pop the frunk cover out and you’ll Hear tapping till you pop it back in.
hridge2020
Member
I ended up threading the front lower strut mount about 1" long from the original height (max low, fully threaded). This solved that issue. If you remove the covers, you should see the rubber molded cover covering the opening where you will see the upper control arm in contact of the car frame. Once I raised the height, I now have about 1/4" space between the upper control arm and car frame at air'd out setting. Now the front bumper does not contact the ground, which is what I want - the minimal gap between the lower bumper parts.
Before (Max Low)
After (1" from Max Low):
I am using the Accurair Endo CT with Airlift 3H
Last edited:
Similar threads
