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Third Party 18" Aero Wheel options

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So I'm new to Tesla. We are likely looking to purchase a LR M3 in the next couple of weeks and we want to keep the wheel size at 18" so we can squeeze out as much range and comfort as possible. But I really don't like the Aero Wheels that come with the car. I like the look of the 19" White Sport Wheels that Tesla offer as an option but again we want to stay at 18. So.....

Is there a third party source that can make the same white sport wheels at the 18' size?

Also, beyond that I'd be interested to see what are the coolest third party rims any of you have purchased for your M3. Just trying to see what options I can move towards once I get the car.
 
@Bronco7777 I see the Fast Wheels EV01 mentioned here regularly as an aftermarket 18" aero option. They're most notable for offering an M3P PUP fitment, whereas the Tesla OE 18" aero wheels don't fit on M3P PUP. They also have a +40mm offset non-PUP fitment which is what you should get for an M3LR.

Like the OE aero wheels, the EV01 aero covers come off, offering a different aesthetic when you don't need the aero efficiency.


I've no experience with those wheels or that brand! I've just come across them on these forums several times, mostly in the context of 18" aero wheels for M3P PUP.

For cool aftermarket wheels on Model 3 in general browse through this thread. Many go bigger than 18" of course, but there are many 18s in there too, including the wheels I went with. :)
 
You don't get more range from wheels because they are 18", you get more range because they put low rolling resistance tires and aero covers on them.
So you can get most of the same range by putting the a low rolling resistance 19" tire on there, but you can't have the aero shape with the sport look.

You can also take the covers off the 18" aero wheels, there is a nice wheel under there, and FastWheels makes the EV01+ in various sizes if you want the aero shape in a different style.
 
You don't get more range from wheels because they are 18", you get more range because they put low rolling resistance tires and aero covers on them.
So you can get most of the same range by putting the a low rolling resistance 19" tire on there, but you can't have the aero shape with the sport look.

You can also take the covers off the 18" aero wheels, there is a nice wheel under there, and FastWheels makes the EV01+ in various sizes if you want the aero shape in a different style.
@jackmott I'm pretty sure wheel diameter does affect range. My efficiency went up a little after switching from stock 2021 M3P 20" setup to non-aero 18" wheels with grippier tires in the same "max performance" summer tire category (0.8% larger tire diameter if that matters).

I totally agree that the tires matter for efficiency, e.g. you'll never match MXM4 efficiency with a performance tire, but wheel diameter also matters. My guess is I gained efficiency in two ways:

1) I suspect tire sidewall is more aerodynamic than wheel spokes. So taller sidewall + smaller wheel is better (assuming close to the same tire outer diameter).

2) Smaller diameter wheel + taller sidewall tire is usually a lighter combo than big diameter wheel + short sidewall tire. In my case I dropped an extreme amount of weight going from the uber-heavy 20" Uberturbines to forged 18" wheels.
 
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I should clarify, when I say my efficiency/range went up, I'm basing that on having an easier time approaching/meeting/exceeding EPA rated efficiency, when I care to pay attention to it at all.

I haven't tried to do a controlled experiment, and comparing wheel+tire "lifetime" efficiency would have been meaningless because I only had 1k miles on the original setup and didn't have anything remotely resembling a regular driving pattern.

I didn't make the change for efficiency, but of course it was a nice surprise to actually gain a little.
 
2) Smaller diameter wheel + taller sidewall tire is usually a lighter combo than big diameter wheel + short sidewall tire. In my case I dropped an extreme amount of weight going from the uber-heavy 20" Uberturbines to forged 18" wheels.
Even if the weights were the exact same (they're not), you are moving the metal barrel of the wheel inward with a smaller wheel which reduces it's moment of inertia, making it easier to spin up and slow down than an equal weight 20" wheel with a bigger barrel.
 
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Yes, tire is more aero than wheel, but you can get 19" wheels that are aero shaped so that doesn't matter. The weight can affect city range but will have no measurable impact on highway range (where you are no accelerating that mass). But the main thing for people to understand is that 90% of the range difference with "wheel" combos is actually the tire choice. The less energy it takes to deform the tire, the more range you get, and differences are large in comparison so wheel aero or wheel mass. Of course, in the 20" sizes there are very few low rolling resistance tires available, so that is an issue!
 
Even if the weights were the exact same (they're not), you are moving the metal barrel of the wheel inward with a smaller wheel which reduces it's moment of inertia, making it easier to spin up and slow down than an equal weight 20" wheel with a bigger barrel.
Yes, but for highway range you are to close approximation at constant speed, so it doesn't matter. Probably worthwhile to do the math real quick in a spreadsheet to see how small of a difference it makes for city range too. People tend to overestimate magnitudes here. Just compute the kinetic energy differences for some speed1 -> speed2 scenario and you can get a quick napkin math answer.
 
Yes, tire is more aero than wheel, but you can get 19" wheels that are aero shaped so that doesn't matter.
That's fair. In my case I'm not interested in fully covered aero wheels, I have conflicting priorities and preferences, so for me going 18" probably does optimize aerodynamic efficiency (as well as cost, wheel protection, and ride quality).

If someone's top priority is high speed aero efficiency, I agree that intuitively aero wheels should equal tire sidewall in that regard, and then the wheel size decision would come down to whether the person cares about stop/start efficiency vs bigger wheel aesthetics.

The weight can affect city range but will have no measurable impact on highway range (where you are no accelerating that mass).
That makes sense to me. These days I'm most range/efficiency conscious on rural back roads where there's little-to-no supercharger/DCFC coverage. Lots of slowing down and speeding up on those twisty roads, so I'm guessing my observed efficiency gains (on the drives where I care to pay attention to efficiency) were more from the weight reduction than aero changes.

Once upon a time I was very efficiency conscious on highways, but Tesla has good supercharger coverage along them now, on highway trips I just drive how I want now and stop when I need, it's no longer worth eeking out that little bit of extra range. Plus the M3P is just overall more efficient and longer range than our old S, especially in the cold where it was the biggest issue before (thanks to the heat pump).

Seriously I love how efficient our M3P is, because I don't have to sweat over its efficiency! 😀 That is an EV luxury to me. That and the truly fast supercharging make this car a world apart for range anxiety from our chargegated old S P85.

But the main thing for people to understand is that 90% of the range difference with "wheel" combos is actually the tire choice. The less energy it takes to deform the tire, the more range you get, and differences are large in comparison so wheel aero or wheel mass. Of course, in the 20" sizes there are very few low rolling resistance tires available, so that is an issue!
I think that's because dubs don't really make sense for absolute maximum efficiency, even if they're aero, so the market for highly efficient 20" tires is probably very small.
 
So I'm new to Tesla. We are likely looking to purchase a LR M3 in the next couple of weeks and we want to keep the wheel size at 18" so we can squeeze out as much range and comfort as possible. But I really don't like the Aero Wheels that come with the car. I like the look of the 19" White Sport Wheels that Tesla offer as an option but again we want to stay at 18. So.....

Is there a third party source that can make the same white sport wheels at the 18' size?

Also, beyond that I'd be interested to see what are the coolest third party rims any of you have purchased for your M3. Just trying to see what options I can move towards once I get the car.
It’s a matter of personal choice what’s cool and what’s not. Tirerack alone has 100+ 18” wheels for the Model 3 LR.

I also like the 19” sport wheels which I use for 3 seasons a year. For winter I wanted something a little similar but different enough to not feel like I’m driving the same.

I went with 10-spoke (technically dual 5-spoke) black with machined accents. Actually not a fan of black wheels but visually it’s the machined accent that catches the eye and the black background adds some pop to it.
 

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It’s a matter of personal choice what’s cool and what’s not. Tirerack alone has 100+ 18” wheels for the Model 3 LR.

I also like the 19” sport wheels which I use for 3 seasons a year. For winter I wanted something a little similar but different enough to not feel like I’m driving the same.

I went with 10-spoke (technically dual 5-spoke) black with machined accents. Actually not a fan of black wheels but visually it’s the machined accent that catches the eye and the black background adds some pop to it.
Who makes those 18's in your images. Nice!
 
I should add that my wheels are not particularly light at around 28 lb each.

For range/efficiency purposes, you’d want to minimize unsprung weight, within reason.

For a little bit more in price than mine, you can get down to the 22 lb range. Such as the below. As with most things in life, there are diminishing returns so you’d have to spend a whole lot more to start getting meaningful weight reduction below 20 lb

 
Some physics math real quick for a given scenario:
Accelerating from 0 to 40mph
25" total diameter of wheel+tire
Wheel1 is 20lbs (wheel + tire)
Wheel2 is 25lbs (wheel + tire)

Wheel1 takes 1,634 joules including translational and rotational acceleration
Wheel2 takes 2,051 joules including translational and rotational acceleration

Wheel1 saves you 417 joules * 4 wheels = 1,668 joules

If you did this 100 times in a trip, that is 166,800 joules, or 0.046kwh out of your ~80kwh battery pack
 
That's the same weight as the 18x8.5 +35 Titan7 T-S5 for the Tesla at about half the price, but at only $256 per wheel, I would assume they're not forged.
 
Some physics math real quick for a given scenario:
Accelerating from 0 to 40mph
25" total diameter of wheel+tire
Wheel1 is 20lbs (wheel + tire)
Wheel2 is 25lbs (wheel + tire)

Wheel1 takes 1,634 joules including translational and rotational acceleration
Wheel2 takes 2,051 joules including translational and rotational acceleration

Wheel1 saves you 417 joules * 4 wheels = 1,668 joules

If you did this 100 times in a trip, that is 166,800 joules, or 0.046kwh out of your ~80kwh battery pack
You seem like you may enjoy the calculators on this page: The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration
It handles all the different calculations for the weight being farther out rather than assuming a uniform disc. Also has sections for brake hats, lug nuts, and some other parts if you're really bored or curious. At least we can skip the flywheel and driveshaft portions.

If someone plans to track or autocross their car then the brake pads and rotors do appreciate not getting all those extra joules put into them every lap.
 
It handles all the different calculations for the weight being farther out rather than assuming a uniform disc.

If someone plans to track or autocross their car then the brake pads and rotors do appreciate not getting all those extra joules put into them every lap.
Assuming all of the 5lbs of extra mass is at the outermost layer of the wheel tire combo bumps the joule delta per wheel from 417 to 470, in a 2 second acceleration from 0 to 40mph amount of extra power eaten up by all 4 heavier wheels is about 1.2 horsepower.

What will make the numbers start to get substantively bigger is when you are at high speeds. For instance accelerating from 40 to 80mph, the joule delta more than doubles: 1,412

So for a track day car you start to get substantial energy savings/ brake heat savings.

I compared my spreadsheet against the HPWizard tools and they seem to agree. Flywheel numbers get pretty wild, nice that we don't have one :)