Are the ones from MPP more reliable than the OEM version? Seems the OEM versions are a weak point.
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Time to replace upper-control arm ball joints
- Thread starter roperld
- Start date
Are the ones from MPP more reliable than the OEM version? Seems the OEM versions are a weak point.
Well, reading from the description, "Sealed spherical bearings will last the lifetime of the car".
The bearing is also on its own removable bracket, if you have to replace you don't have to remove the whole upper arm.
Yep, if I'm out of warranty, I would seriously look into those beauties.
I also have a 6/18 build and had my driver's side front upper control arm replaced at ~16kmi after hearing this squeak. Just ~2k mi after getting it replaced I started hearing a terrible screeching noise when turning the wheel at no or slow speeds. Took it back in and they replaced both sides now with the same H revision parts. I am hoping that doesn't mean that this H part has serious problems with quick degradation and rather they did both to just eliminate any conflating factors.
I can't believe how common and frequent this issue is. They need to do an overhaul of this design.
I can't believe how common and frequent this issue is. They need to do an overhaul of this design.
timk225
Active Member
My April '18 build 3 RWD LR started getting the ball joint creak last week, after 61,000 miles of Pittsburgh roads. It went from quiet to creaking like crazy in a week!
Just my luck that this part, which seemed to have a lot of problems on early build date 3's, managed to last until 11K miles after my 50K mile warranty expired.
I wonder how much this is gonna cost me. Already have my service center appointment for this coming Thursday.
Just my luck that this part, which seemed to have a lot of problems on early build date 3's, managed to last until 11K miles after my 50K mile warranty expired.
I wonder how much this is gonna cost me. Already have my service center appointment for this coming Thursday.
Dolemite
is my name
I would take it for a professional alignment just to be safe. Really Tesla shouldn't do suspension work with mobile service because you always should get a proper alignment after any suspension work, and the alignment should be included if it's warranty work. Otherwise you could prematurely wear out your tires and also possible reduce your range if they are out of alignment.
When I got mine done at a service center they showed an alignment check but no alignment done.
That's good for you. It's widely accepted that alignment should always be checked after suspension work, and that's my point.
Tesla charged me $704 in Chicago to replace front driver upper control arm at 55K miles. They had to replace the left side at 51K miles 3 months earlier under warranty. Isn't this too soon to have to replace this part? I'm thinking the heavy battery might contribute to this. I had a 2016 Lexus RX350 prior with 75K miles and never needed any repairs--EVER!
Well, your Tesla only has one moving part, and your Lexus has 100's of moving parts which is why the maintenance is much higher on the Tesla...oh wait!
LOL
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I had to have mine replaced, but it was way back when the car was new. They did redesign them from the original 2018 build.
android04
Active Member
The heavy battery has nothing to do with this ball joint issue, there are plenty of vehicles that are heavier out there without this issue. The problem is that the original design or selection of grease (and maybe later revisions) did not keep the grease in the ball joint from migrating away. I'm sure Tesla has mitigated the issue by now by switching to a different grease or switching the design of the ball joint to keep the grease in place.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I had my units replaced when I first got it in early 2018 and that DIDN'T fix the issue, so I waited until the revision E was available and installed and that has kept me noise free all these years. YMMV
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