When my timer is supposed to activate, it starts up as scheduled but makes a loud clicking sound until it stops charging after a couple miles. It charges for a couple minutes while intermittently displaying "Charger Problem", and then it stops charging. Any suggestions on how I might solve this problem myself?
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Timer not working
- Thread starter Pantera Dude
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- Roadster
Ok, so it's a problem with the charger, though the charger works fine when I start it manually. My question is, how do I solve this problem? Is there something I can do short of taking it to the dealer?
Thank you
dhrivnak
Active Member
Or it is the power supply. You seem to have a lot of issues with charging and charging cords. Maybe the power supply has a lose connection. Maybe you have another device on the same circuit. Maybe the power company has spiles or brown outs.
I don't THINK the problem is the power supply/power company? I swapped charging cords with a another owner and he had the same problem with the cord. But you have given me an idea. I might go to his house and test my timer/charger to see what happens. I can LIVE without the timer because I very rarely go to bed before midnight when the best rate starts. I just miss the convenience. I can have it looked at the next time I have the car serviced but at this time it isn't even worth $175 to me, if I was so lucky to have it fixed for that price.
Thanks,
Art
Thanks,
Art
When I took my car in for the 36K service I had them check out the problem with the timer/charger. It took them many hours to diagnose. It looks like I was the first lucky customer to experience the problem? They said the bad part was the Auxiliary Power Supply or APS which is located in the main battery box. The estimate to repair, wait for it, a cool $5500! I'd like to have a working timer but I don't want it that bad! It would have involved swapping my battery out for another which would have had a 12 month warranty. I thought about what a non working timer might do to resale value which would make it easier for me to pull the trigger on the repair. But I'm also thinking that if a better battery comes along in the future and I decide to spring for it, the $5500 might be spent for little value to me. On the other hand, if the value of my battery is now significantly reduced, spending the money might not be so bad? With my luck, if I paid for the repair, I could see the new battery going bad after a year and having to buy another one! Oh well, I don't think I'll be losing any sleep over this. I'm just happy to have my car back.:biggrin:
I was mistakenly under the impression that even though my charge/timer was not working, if the car was left plugged in, it would be protected from damaging the battery in case of long term storage. I was told by Tesla it would not stay charged with the timer not working. Not that this is much of a problem for me, I have found that the battery loses about ten miles of ideal miles a week while sitting. That means I should have close to four months of storage without a problem? As long as I'm not dead, I don't see an issue .:biggrin: I have informed my family just in case.:biggrin:
dhrivnak
Active Member
What is your standard ideal miles? If >170 I would likely let it ride. If 170 or below I would likely get the new battery.
smorgasbord
Active Member
I wonder if installing an OVMS V2 box would help. It overrides the car's charge timer to start charging on its own schedule. That would be a $130 work-around.
I'm not sure I'm understanding you correctly. Are you saying the "periodic top off" that the car does while plugged in -- without the timed charging feature enabled -- is no longer functioning in your car?
Is your car still under (any kind of) warranty? I haven't kept track of what the Roadster warranty covers but if this was on my Model S I'd be pushing for this to be covered under warranty.
My standard ideal miles are about 173, down from the 176 the car displayed when I bought it. At that time the car was 4 years old with 25K miles on it. It is now 5 years old with 36K miles on it.
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Let's see, $130 or $5500. I vote for option one!:biggrin: That would be AWSOME if it would solve the problem? Thanks for the idea! Comments from others on whether or not it might work would be appreciated!
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Unfortunately this problem began two or three months after the warranty expired. The way it is, the timer doesn't work at all. I have to start it manually to do any charging.
smorgasbord
Active Member
Best way is to find an OVMS V2 user near you and transfer his/her OVMS box to your car and see if it works. Should take 30 seconds to swap the box - no reprogramming needed. If the other car is a v2.X, you'll need to set a parameter to indicate yours is a v1.5. Probably best to post on the OVMS thread.
My semi-educated guess is that if you can charge on demand via the VDS, then OVMS can charge your car via the CAN bus. And with V2's new ACC (Advanced Charge Control) feature, it has cooldown and charge timers for up to 4 locations.
My semi-educated guess is that if you can charge on demand via the VDS, then OVMS can charge your car via the CAN bus. And with V2's new ACC (Advanced Charge Control) feature, it has cooldown and charge timers for up to 4 locations.
Great idea from smorgasbord. If you want to borrow my OVMS, let me know. If it works for you, buy yourself one and send mine back.
wiztecy
Active Member
I'd email Mark who works on the OVMS for his input. If he's just issuing a charge start/stop command through the canbus and the clock management through OVMS (which I believe he is) it will work.
Great, thanks!
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Thanks Asgard. I'll see if I can find someone down here in my neck of the woods first. If that doesn't work, I'll take you up on your offer!
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Sounds good, I'll do it! All I have is an old flip-phone that I rarely use, I'm not exactly on the cutting edge of technology.:biggrin: Will I need to buy a different phone?
wiztecy
Active Member
smorgasbord
Active Member
There is also a smartphone app that is very useful. But, if you like the anachronism of using old phone technology with new car technology, have at it.
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