Tire rotation is especially beneficial on single-axle driven cars (RWD or FWD) that devour tire tread on the axle that transmits the torque to the road, than the free-rolling ones. In RWD case it means that rear tires will wear out at (2+x) rate of the fronts.
No matter which pattern you choose for rotation, the key is getting rear tires to the front, and fronts to the rear.
Tesla recommends rotating tires every 10K km or 6,250 miles. BMW recommends tire rotation every 5,000 to 7,500 miles on 2WD vehicles. But those are just mileage guesstimates for "average" drivers. The key is monitoring tire wear for the way YOU drive in YOUR environment, and rotating them front<->back whenever the wear discrepancy creeps in above ~2-3/32nds per axle.
I switch between summer and winter tire'n'wheel sets 2x / year, so the rotation logic is super simple - take the two (2) freshest tires and put them on the rear axles, and the other two (2) go on the front axle. If the tires have directional thread, there is only one side for them to go onto (automatic method D from post above). If not-direction, then it doesn't matter. Same logic applies to RWD and AWD cars.
If I only had one (1) set of wheels and tires, I would go with method D, purely because I can jack one side of the car and swap the tires in one go per side. The entire rotation exercise will be finished in under 15 minutes, not including beer breaks. And the wheel nuts will be torque properly, exactly to spec, on every wheel.
Which is way quicker than the time it would take to drive to the nearest tire shop or SC, never minding waiting for them get on with the job. Then re-torqueing the nuts properly once you get home, since the shops/SC guerillas will either over-torque them with an air gun, or barely screw them on.
HTH,
a