Tire wear after first 4,000 miles

[sorka]

Why does the spec call for so much positive toe (front of wheels pointing inwards)?

Total toe range is 0.3 to 0.5. Why not zero? Is it a handling and stability thing? What happens if go outside the spec and make it as close to zero as possible so the wheels are pointing straight ahead rather than inwards?

 

[linkster]

Shotgun
Thanks for your service!

Your tire wear has been extensively written elsewhere on this forum. I would recommend that you take some time to read the threads listed below (and there are others as well) along with a few of the noted posts. This forum is so very fortunate to have a suspension expert AND an alignment expert. I have learned valuable information and applied strategy's from both @lolachampcar and @HyperMiler that has helped save me $1000s in tire replacement costs. After reading the threads, you might consider posting your specific question on one of champ's threads as it will have a higher probability that he or Hyper will see it and respond. Jus' my $.02

Good-Luck!

I will never buy 21" tires again

Second time crooked wheel after service
(especially sbportech's post #32)


19" and 21" Tire Wear (informal) Survey

Tires and wear... a little frustrated about it

Adjustable rear camber links and tire rotation result in perfectly even tire wear

Negative Camber in the Rear and Expensive Tires

Upper Rear Link Build (Reduces rear camber to improve tire wear)

[lolachampcar] Performance Upgrade Efforts
(important posts #230, 234, 237, 238, 250)

btw, all champ posts

 

[Zextraterrestrial]

Why does the spec call for so much positive toe (front of wheels pointing inwards)?
..

Total toe range is 0.3 to 0.5. Why not zero? Is it a handling and stability thing? What happens if go outside the spec and make it as close to zero as possible so the wheels are pointing straight ahead rather than inwards?

for the rear you need as much + toe as the toe bolts will allow due to all of the camber for the best tire wear.
pointing straight with as much camber as the rear has will wear the insides like has been seen
- toe is what murders rear tires.

front spec is -0.3 -+0.1 - a touch of negative should have slightly better handling I've been told. Probably would want negative camber in the front too in that case

 

[sorka]

for the rear you need as much + toe as the toe bolts will allow due to all of the camber for the best tire wear.
pointing straight with as much camber as the rear has will wear the insides like has been seen
- toe is what murders rear tires.

front spec is -0.3 -+0.1 - a touch of negative should have slightly better handling I've been told. Probably would want negative camber in the front too in that case

But why? Why wouldn't the least wear occur at 0 total toe?

 

[Zextraterrestrial]

But why? Why wouldn't the least wear occur at 0 total toe?

Pretty sure the amount of camber in the rear makes the inner tire edges scrub under harder acceleration.
If you had a lot of camber and no toe then under hard acceleration it would force a bit of toe out and just freeway driving no toe might not be horrible but you still have the camber to deal with and pretty sure will still get wear on the inside

(not sure I am completely correct but this is what I think happens, I have only ever raced my S so I really have learned about tires and alignments just because of this car)

 

[sorka]

Pretty sure the amount of camber in the rear makes the inner tire edges scrub under harder acceleration.
If you had a lot of camber and no toe then under hard acceleration it would force a bit of toe out and just freeway driving no toe might not be horrible but you still have the camber to deal with and pretty sure will still get wear on the inside

(not sure I am completely correct but this is what I think happens, I have only ever raced my S so I really have learned about tires and alignments just because of this car)

On The PD cars freeway driving essentially makes it a front wheel drive car. On my past rear wheel drive cars I always had a little toe in because under constant freeway speeds of say 70 MPH, the toes will push out just a little tending to make a slightly negative total toe a 0 total toe under a constant drive force.

But if you're toe is too indwards and you're doing tons of freeway driving, that will wear far far more than having 0 total on a front wheel drive car.

 

[Zextraterrestrial]

ah, yes..D's are surely a bit different regarding wear.
but the alignment specs are the same...?

 

[sorka]

ah, yes..D's are surely a bit different regarding wear.
but the alignment specs are the same...?

Yes, they are but they really shouldn't be.

 

[Zextraterrestrial]

Yes, they are but they really shouldn't be.

probably not exactly the same. but I guess it makes it much easier for any alignment shop. lame reason though.
I was a bit surprised..had to go find my alignment sheet from 2 years ago to compare to your specs.
My tires have been wearing pretty even so haven't had alignment since, could use more front camber to get a bit more inner wear but that looks kinda like a pita to do myself. I was also going to try and add some more rear toe but the toe bolts are so tight now that I couldn't even loosen the right side, at least they aren't slipping to toe out like they were at first.