To Performance or not to performance... AWD? P? I can't decide!

[MXWing]

If you cut my range in half, and give me 2 second 0-60 I will take it.

I don’t need a full 300, 99% of the time.

Is @MatildaModel3 a first time owner?

You will find often to protect your battery life you will be sitting at 50-80% charge anyway.

Money is the consideration for AWD,
Not range.

 

[MXWing]

Like the OP, I’m still deciding between the AWD and P. Does anyone know if the loss of range for the P can be mitigated by driving in chill mode? If so, would it still be less range than AWD and if so, how much?

I know it seems like a dumb question (i.e. why get the P if you’re just going to drive in chill mode), but I’m thinking in terms of long road trips where I’d want to maximize range. For everyday driving I would drive it in normal mode.

Percentage of road trips where slight range loss might entail an extra supercharging stop over thousands of miles

Or

Percentage of time you want to rule the road every single day?

You can control your own throttle making chill mode unnecessary if you want to drive for range.

If you use EAP, you will get “bad” range with either option just because EAP is not optimal at managing launches or stops.

 

[Carl_Drogo]

Percentage of road trips where slight range loss might entail an extra supercharging stop over thousands of miles

Or

Percentage of time you want to rule the road every single day?

You can control your own throttle making chill mode unnecessary if you want to drive for range.

If you use EAP, you will get “bad” range with either option just because EAP is not optimal at managing launches or stops.

Thanks. Basically I’m just curious if you could get the stated 310 mile range from a P3D+ either by being frugal with the throttle / pedal or via extensive use of chill mode. The idea is not simply to cut down an extra stop at a supercharger over thousands of miles, but to have some extra range when I arrive at a destination.

Also, I sometimes go to my buddy’s place in the mountains which happens to be about 200 miles away. So with the climb and cold weather I’m thinking I would need to maximize range on a car that’s nominally 310 in ideal conditions if I wanted to get there without stopping at a supercharger. I always stop anyway to take a break, but the superchargers aren’t at my favorite place to stop.

 

[Eno Deb]

Thanks. Basically I’m just curious if you could get the stated 310 mile range from a P3D+ either by being frugal with the throttle / pedal or via extensive use of chill mode. The idea is not simply to cut down an extra stop at a supercharger over thousands of miles, but to have some extra range when I arrive at a destination.

On long trips aerodynamics and rolling resistance are more important (since you don't change speed as often as in city traffic). The 18" and 19" OEM wheels come with low-resistance tires, the 20" wheels do not. The 18" Aero wheels also help aerodynamics. You will not get 310 miles on the Performance no matter how you drive (well, unless you creep along the highway at 50mph ).

It's a bit of a shame that they don't sell the "P3D-" anymore. That with Aero wheels would have been my car of choice if I had felt that the AWD wasn't more than fast enough for me. Best mix of performance and efficiency.

 

[Carl_Drogo]

On long trips aerodynamics and rolling resistance are more important (since you don't change speed as often as in city traffic). The 18" and 19" OEM wheels come with low-resistance tires, the 20" wheels do not. The 18" Aero wheels also help aerodynamics. You will not get 310 miles on the Performance no matter how you drive (well, unless you creep along the highway at 50mph ).

It's a bit of a shame that they don't sell the "P3D-" anymore. That with Aero wheels would have been my car of choice if I had felt that the AWD wasn't more than fast enough for me. Best mix of performance and efficiency.

Thanks. That’s too bad.... Yeah, I almost pulled the trigger on the P3D- when they had it, but didn’t like the aero wheels and didn’t want to spend more money and hassle retrofitting 19” wheels. It sounds like my best option now is the AWD with 19” and hope they uncork it someday.

 

[daniel]

If you use EAP, you will get “bad” range with either option just because EAP is not optimal at managing launches or stops.

Except that trips where range is critical are more likely to be mostly highway driving without many starts and stops.

FWIW, I floored the Roadster at pretty much every opportunity. It's a sports car and I drove it like a sports car, and loved it. I almost never floor the Model 3. It's plenty quick when needed, but not quick enough to be a thrill, so there's no need. Driving more sensibly, and using EAP, this is a much safer car.

In the Roadster, I always wanted to be first in line at a traffic light, so I could launch off the line when the light changed. In the Model 3 I'm happier if there's a car in front of me so I don't have to disengage EAP. When the car ahead starts to move, I give the pedal a light touch to get the car going, because otherwise it hesitates too long, and then let EAP follow at the gentle acceleration of the flow of traffic. In the Roadster I always felt frustrated and stressed when a car ahead of me was going to slow, or accelerating too slowly. In the Model 3 I'm relaxed because... well, I'm really not sure why, but it's similar to the way I feel when someone else is driving. I'm more relaxed when someone else has to worry about the traffic and the driving. In the Model 3 I'm always alert and ready to take over, but until I have to take over the car is driving and I'm happy to let it go at the speed of the other cars.

Bottom line, I'd have gotten the P3D if it had been available, but I think I'm actually better off with the RWD non-P. It's a more "sensible" car.

 

[astrowunder]

Heh, the P3D is definitely a thrill off the line. Great thing about the car is you can have it both ways- I'm happy when 2nd in line with autopilot engaged and also happy to shut off autopilot when in pole position.

 

[MXWing]

Thanks. That’s too bad.... Yeah, I almost pulled the trigger on the P3D- when they had it, but didn’t like the aero wheels and didn’t want to spend more money and hassle retrofitting 19” wheels. It sounds like my best option now is the AWD with 19” and hope they uncork it someday.

It will cost you a little more money but you can swap the 3P+ wheels and tires with something more optimized for range.

The original wheel and tire setup can be sold because you got it for “free” anyway.

 

[MatildaModelY]

It would be super annoying to do wheel swaps any time you want to take a longer trip though.

 

[MXWing]

It would be super annoying to do wheel swaps any time you want to take a longer trip though.

Once you make the swap to new wheels, it can be permanent.

Drive old tires to ground, swap to new setup.

Or swap to new setup immediately.

 

[MatildaModelY]

GUYS.

Big new plot twist just happened. My local store just called me and said they are selling a test drive vehicle. Has a couple hundred miles on it. Here’s the thing...

Model 3 Performance
White interior
Pear white paint
Autopilot

Asking price: $57k.

Obviously I’m super tempted given the good price. What are some things I should look out for when I go take a look at it?

 

[BestHand]

I would better buy new 3D, not a (just barely used even) Performance. I am pretty sure that all who test drive this car floored it. The known issue with S was(is?) clunking sound after some mileage. Happens because mostly because torque changing direction from one to another in a moment (floor it and then brake/regen). It may be a problem if you try to oomph it often, and as gearbox is the same, I think that gearbox will be more challenged in Performance version. How often we test 0-60 in every day driving? I did not even once. I do not need to know, I feel that power is right there. Would I pay extra cash for something I barely use? Would I pay extra to have my calipers red? Would I pay for ability to have a track mode/fast tire wearing off? Where I will use that track mode?
One more point: when I put my car on my insurance, I was asked if it is Performance version or not. So, I am sure that insurance for Performance is more expensive.

 

[Nocturnal]

If you cut my range in half, and give me 2 second 0-60 I will take it.

I don’t need a full 300, 99% of the time.

Is @MatildaModel3 a first time owner?

You will find often to protect your battery life you will be sitting at 50-80% charge anyway.

Money is the consideration for AWD,
Not range.

Hmmm, I do like my range but that 2 second 0-60 might be worth the trade. I'd drop 1/3 range for sure, IDK if I could manage half.

 

[skrtskrt]

GUYS.

Big new plot twist just happened. My local store just called me and said they are selling a test drive vehicle. Has a couple hundred miles on it. Here’s the thing...

Model 3 Performance
White interior
Pear white paint
Autopilot

Asking price: $57k.

Obviously I’m super tempted given the good price. What are some things I should look out for when I go take a look at it?

Ask them for pictures and posted on here so we can see. Check the front bumper, rims, etc

 

[spesler]

GUYS.

Big new plot twist just happened. My local store just called me and said they are selling a test drive vehicle. Has a couple hundred miles on it. Here’s the thing...

Model 3 Performance
White interior
Pear white paint
Autopilot

Asking price: $57k.

Obviously I’m super tempted given the good price. What are some things I should look out for when I go take a look at it?

That is a steal of a price. I would be hard pressed to turn that down, even with cosmetic imperfections. I assume it will be eligible for the tax credit. In fact, I'll trade you mine for it. Straight up!

 

[MXWing]

GUYS.

Big new plot twist just happened. My local store just called me and said they are selling a test drive vehicle. Has a couple hundred miles on it. Here’s the thing...

Model 3 Performance
White interior
Pear white paint
Autopilot

Asking price: $57k.

Obviously I’m super tempted given the good price. What are some things I should look out for when I go take a look at it?

Look for my stiff arm trying to shove you aside to steal the deal.

 

[seantay00]

If true a great deal. They offered me nearly the same car out of Indy for $69K, car had 2K driving miles on it.

Ultimately I decided to go with a new M3D. As much as the extra speed sounded fun I could justify it. For $10K more I can purchase a new 72" TV for basement, a new couch, a weekend get away with the wife, and likely still have enough room to buy the FSD when it's available. For me the opportunity cost for an extra second doesn't make sense given the AWD is already faster then nearly every other four door sedan on the market.

I also suspect in 2019 there will be a software option for a little boast for the M3D that might get it to 4.0 or 3.9... There is more head room there if Tesla decides to monetize or roll it out to under cut other competitors.

 

[Glamisduner]

GUYS.

Big new plot twist just happened. My local store just called me and said they are selling a test drive vehicle. Has a couple hundred miles on it. Here’s the thing...

Model 3 Performance
White interior
Pear white paint
Autopilot

Asking price: $57k.

Obviously I’m super tempted given the good price. What are some things I should look out for when I go take a look at it?

Thats an insainly good deal, whats wrong with it? Similar config to my P3D- but mine was 72k before tax. Do it don't hesitate.

 

[MatildaModelY]

I'm in! Just waiting to see when I can head out to check it out in person tomorrow.

 

[cbutters]

I have a maxed out P and seeing your question; I'm asking myself "If I had to do it again, what would I purchase?" I was always going to get the AWD; but I stepped up to the P for the following reasons:

• Historically I have taken a car to the track; so if I go again; I definitely wanted the P3D PUP package
• I Drove a Performance Model S when they gave it to me on loaner and it blew me away. (model x 100d owner)

If my bank account was flush, I'd do the P again no problem; However if money was tight and I took a total "overall value" approach...
I'd say the AWD is the winner. 3.5 vs. 4.5 is a big difference, but 4.5 is still ridiculously fast and you can get AWD with aero wheels (if that is your jam and you want better range)
I personally got 18" winter rims to use for half the year. I'm not super impressed with the 20" tires because I already had a flat that destroyed the tire and had to pay 340 to get it replaced. They are just too low profile.