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To PPF or not to PPF?

Paint Protection?


  • Total voters
    113
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Not sure I follow? In the USA, most car owners keep their used cars ~4 years of ownership. So if I'm in that category, a 5 year PPF warranty would meet my needs/requirements and be the best financial value for me, no?

You should check your metrics again. Most new car owners in the US keep it closer to 8 years.

And warranty is only part of it. It's not like the 5 year and 10 year films are necessarily the same.

With water heaters, the higher end units can be similar but with more Anode rods
 
this is an old myth the paint panels days before they even put them on the car

45 days minimum. The paint and clear needs to cure from the inside out and remains porous and is not fully dry. This even applies to solvent based paints. Water based paints may take even longer. Applying a wax or a clear bra before it is fully cured will impede the passing of moisture required for the paint to fully cure. This can cause the peeling of the paint later or it coming off completely with the clear bra when and if you remove it. It pays to wait longer if possible.

Paint panels. Are you talking about your Hyundai? Tesla doesn't paint panels.


Probably a 30-day window from shipment to delivery. Bubble at your own risk. I saw one a the shop. "It ain't pretty."
 
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45 days minimum. The paint and clear needs to cure from the inside out and remains porous and is not fully dry. This even applies to solvent based paints. Water based paints may take even longer. Applying a wax or a clear bra before it is fully cured will impede the passing of moisture required for the paint to fully cure. This can cause the peeling of the paint later or it coming off completely with the clear bra when and if you remove it. It pays to wait longer if possible.

Paint panels. Are you talking about your Hyundai? Tesla doesn't paint panels.


Probably a 30-day window from shipment to delivery. Bubble at your own risk. I saw one a the shop. "It ain't pretty."


There has been multiple sources that paint is baked at factory completely eliminating this need to wait for curing paint.
 
Paint is cured at factory. If you are thinking that the paint needs curing 45 days, what does that say about potential damage during that period due to weather and environmental factor.

You talk about porous and moisture releasing, if that were true, then new cars shouldn't be covered with the white plastic film during transport from factory.

Btw, the curing is really the clear coat.
 
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There has been multiple sources that paint is baked at factory completely eliminating this need to wait for curing paint.

Personal preference. At your own risk. Just spoke to my Paint Pro who installs PPF daily and he said that new paint definitely outgasses and if the PPF is installed too early the outgassing will deteriorate the adhesive on the PPF. You won't really notice a problem until you take it off and the paint comes off with the PPF. For the most part, new vehicles take at least 30 days to get to you, so generally, it is not a problem, however as grandmother always said. "It is better to be safe than sorry." What to do while waiting? Stay away from car washes and dump trucks.

The problem with the new paint is that shipping by rail means that fresh paint is subjected to railroad wheel and rail dust. This fine rail/wheel dust is created by the friction of the wheels rolling on the rail, creating hot aerosol iron filings. These filings were hot enough to “melt” into the clear coat. This is a bad thing, especially if you’re painting millions of cars and trucks with an outlook of having to repaint those cars and trucks under warranty ( for free). Some manufacturer's now put cloth car covers on their vehicles (like Lexus). Some plastic coat, but the plastic coat is not PPF.
 
Personal preference. At your own risk. Just spoke to my Paint Pro who installs PPF daily and he said that new paint definitely outgasses and if the PPF is installed too early the outgassing will deteriorate the adhesive on the PPF. You won't really notice a problem until you take it off and the paint comes off with the PPF. For the most part, new vehicles take at least 30 days to get to you, so generally, it is not a problem, however as grandmother always said. "It is better to be safe than sorry." What to do while waiting? Stay away from car washes and dump trucks.

The problem with the new paint is that shipping by rail means that fresh paint is subjected to railroad wheel and rail dust. This fine rail/wheel dust is created by the friction of the wheels rolling on the rail, creating hot aerosol iron filings. These filings were hot enough to “melt” into the clear coat. This is a bad thing, especially if you’re painting millions of cars and trucks with an outlook of having to repaint those cars and trucks under warranty ( for free). Some manufacturer's now put cloth car covers on their vehicles (like Lexus). Some plastic coat, but the plastic coat is not PPF.
The issue is all how the question is worded. "Does fresh paint require 30 days" or "Does a new car with factory paint require 30 days" The first is true for cars that are painted without ovens. Paint shops can not bake paint nearly as well as a Full car Oven. This is because the panels have zero plastics on it, where a paint shop can not bake even remotely close to the temperatures without melting your plastics.
 
I voted for PPF. The number of chips to the plastic on my front bumper in the first 1000 miles with Pearl White is unacceptable. I maintain a large following distance and avoid trucks.

My PPF installer claimed Tesla’s can’t have PPF or ceramic coat applied for at least 3 weeks because of an additional factory coating. Said that it messes up the polishing pads in paint correction and causes the ceramic coating to haze.
 
Picked up the car on Saturday and went straight to the shop from the SC for PPF (Xpel Stealth/matte) and 30% ceramic tint all the way around. Just picked the car up this afternoon.

So far, so good. Obviously, wish it was something that could have been done for a lot less.
That looks awesome. I have mine scheduled in a couple of weeks for the same treatment. Can't wait for the new look.
 
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I took a middle of the road approach, I had PPF installed on ALL the HIGH THREAT area's. It cost me $1800, which included tinting the front door glass. The rest of the car gets detailed with my favorite car care products I've used for the last 20+ years.
 
If I were to take my car in for PPF, for the problem areas, for around $1800, should I expect that they detail the car first? Is that pretty standard if you take it to a good shop? I would hate to bring it in and then theres some swirls or something under it.
 
If I were to take my car in for PPF, for the problem areas, for around $1800, should I expect that they detail the car first? Is that pretty standard if you take it to a good shop? I would hate to bring it in and then theres some swirls or something under it.
Definitely should expect a detailing and likely one or two stage paint correction as well. I got Front & lower sides PPF, and they did 2-stage with clay bar treatment first, no questions asked
 
Paint is cured at factory. If you are thinking that the paint needs curing 45 days, what does that say about potential damage during that period due to weather and environmental factor.

You talk about porous and moisture releasing, if that were true, then new cars shouldn't be covered with the white plastic film during transport from factory.

Btw, the curing is really the clear coat.

The cure times in many cases was based on the old processes. Although Tesla pushes these cars out quickly, remember that many of the components are painted weeks before they are out the door so by the time they get to you the consumer they are cured.

I took a middle of the road approach, I had PPF installed on ALL the HIGH THREAT area's. It cost me $1800, which included tinting the front door glass. The rest of the car gets detailed with my favorite car care products I've used for the last 20+ years.

I would advocate for at least this. I am driving at least 2500 miles per month so I just install full PPF and did ceramic coating for my entire car. I am OCD I guess but I like protecting my paint from the elements. I like the self healing qualities of XPEL which I have used on alll my cars but full body coverage is not for everyone. At least do the high impact areas.

I talked a bit about it in this video. Very much interested in seeing how this PPF holds up over time with this much wear.

 
I got XPEL PPF on the front bumper, hood, A pillar, front fenders, and side mirrors. I also got CS2 titanium ceramic coating on the rest of the car. I have driven 642 miles and I really regret not getting the whole car PPF or at least front edge of the rear wheel arch. The bottom of the back edge of the rear doors are already covered in rock chips. 642 miles!!!

20210207_152755.jpg
 
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The first MY I learned the hard way and waited to 1500 mi to PPF the full front and doors. So many chip on the front it was shocking. The PPF paint correction was just okay so the chips didn’t disappear under the PPF. The other MY coming in March, I’m getting Xpel Track Wrap and putting it on before driving home. I plan to slap some in front of the rear wheels and front bumper.
 
Random two cents:

  • Clear bra provides incredible protection. Ceramic coating is talked about in the same breath, but it really shouldn’t be. Certainly not in terms of rock chip damage. It’s like comparing the protection of an airbag vs. a balloon animal
  • Does the better stuff like Xpel Ultimate really self-heal from minor scratches? In my opinion, yes
  • Should you try to install it yourself to save a few bucks? Never. Not unless it’s something like a small fender protection piece. It’s an art. The good guys are really good, and even they make mistakes
  • A good pro install vs. an OK pro install often comes down to finished edges, and you can ask them exactly how they plan to do that up-front. The best guys tuck under panel gaps, remove headlights... whatever it takes to minimize the edges that can collect dirt and wax over time. Quality costs
  • The unknown comes with taking it OFF. Sometimes it goes well and sometimes there’s damage. Weird example but could you protect a Faberge egg by sealing it in a block of resin? Yes. Could you get it out of that block of resin without damaging it? Hmmm... Does it matter on a limited edition future collectible? Yes. Some people wouldn’t buy it. $50-$100K Tesla? Nope - a second owner in 3-5 years will likely see it as an upgrade.
If you can afford film and you like the idea of few-to-no rock chips it’s worth it, but it’s certainly not essential. I’ve PPF’d multiple cars and it was worth it on all of them, but I have daily drivers that I’d never spend a cent wrapping and I’ve been really happy with those decisions too.

At the end of the day it’s a car and the less you obsess over it getting minor damage and can focus on more important things the better your life will be. Depending on the person installing PPF May provide that answer; or not installing PPF may provide that answer. Each to his/her own...
 
I always use Rhino Detailing and Films in Huntington Beach. I had them put Xpel ultimate on the front end and then CS2 titanium ceramic coating. They tinted the windows with Suntek CXP and I also had them wrap my center console in Xpel stealth. I personally applied Gyeon leather shield to the white interior, applied a screen protector, and put in 3D Maxspider floor mats. Now everything is nice and protected.

View attachment 624385 View attachment 624386 View attachment 624387
Cherry!

How much did the PPF, Ceramic Coating, & Tints cost? Did you get the full PPF?
 
Another option. Save thousands on PPF and if needed, do this

Love it, thank you! I have gotten quotes for $1650 for the front bumper, hood, and headlights. Don't know what to do! Ceramic with paint correction is $1800. Tinting brings grand total up to $3700 from one company and $4500 from another. Good grief. Just use drcolorchip and then repaint at some point in the future, or drop the $$$ now and just hope it is really worth it.