I am speculating based on limited information. I spoke with Gruber, 057, QC Charge and EV Fixme and 2 of them said they have seen MCU2 be more sensitive to underlying battery issues. I was also told that with MCU 1 it is possible to silence errors. The other change I have is my Drive Unit was replaced and 057 said they have seen that an update is needed after changing the drive unit on MCU2. When I bought the car Dec31st I was told the battery was replaced July last year, and I called Tesla and they confirmed it at the SC. It now looks like that is not true and I would not have bought this car and spent all this money without that battery upgrade being done. I had Tesla perform a full battery diagnosis before getting MCU2 done and they said it was good. It was after the MCU2 and diagnostic that I took it to QC Charge for the the Drive Unit (Another 5K) based on believing the car was good. The original seller screwed me selling an out of warranty car with battery and drive unit issues, Tesla and their faulty information has made me continue to put money in and now QC Charge have made me pay $5K and given me a broken car. None of these places have taken responsibility but are happy to continue to take money for work. QC charged me another $1K over the $4K drive unit to "diagnose and fix" the issue, but when it's not fixed they want to continue charging by the hour to work on the issue. So I'm trying to learn as much as possible, including from this community, so I can help myself. I am worried it is going to turn out to be a battery pack replacement answer from Tesla and QC Charge believe it's a bad module that needs replacing. Maybe I will get lucky and Tesla will find a software fix that puts it all right, but so far my experience has made me feel that is pretty unlikely.
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Tons of error codes! Bms_f151 Bms_f071 Gtw_w018 Di_u014 Bms_w151 Gtw_w157
- Thread starter Tico
- Start date
I'm pretty sure no one here at 057 would have said that "they have seen MCU2 be more sensitive to underlying battery issues", because that's just pure BS (if they did, let me know because I'll speak with them). MCU2 and MCU1 use the exact same firmware for the batteries and other components as MCU1. So whoever's saying that doesn't know what they're talking about and anything else they note should be taken with a grain of salt.
The problem I've seen with every single place that claims to work on Tesla batteries and such, besides my own company, is that they a) think everyone is an idiot and will buy whatever line of BS they're fed because batteries are "magic" that normal people don't understand, b) attempt to charge people exorbitant amounts of money for either nothing or things that aren't actually fixes for the issue, and c) generally are just regular mechanics that barely know anything about batteries/EVs, etc. I loathe this approach, and it irritates me to no end when people are like, "Well, company_xxxx told me [insert line of BS here], can't you just do that?" and we have to be the ones to explain to folks that they either go screwed, or they were about to be screwed.
In your case... yeah, sorry but, you got played by the place you took it to... and I'm pretty sure my staff would have told you this. I'm sorry to hear you were burned... and we unfortunately here this all the time now (at least once a week at this rate). I'm hoping someone sues these places into oblivion at some point because they're not doing the customers or the community a good service by spreading bogus information and charging for nonsense.
(Full disclosure: I've made no attempt to match this TMC member to any customer communication, so, coming in blind here.)
On to the issue:
It's definitely NOT a software problem. The errors you note are for isolation problems severe enough to cause the BMS to shutdown. This is generally from water or coolant ingress into a HV component, with either the battery or drive unit being the most common culprits. Since it's a 2013, it's most likely the battery and water ingress causing corrosion. This is super common on the 2012 to early 2014s. It's NOT repairable. You can NOT replace individual modules. I don't care how many views YouTube videos claiming this garbage have, it's complete nonsense. You can not replace a module and expect the car to function normally. The only solution is a complete battery swap. We do this service, but we can't price it without the car here to assess the condition of the original pack. The cost can range from a few thousand up to the price of a full replacement pack, depending on the actual damage. In most cases, if the car was recently drivable, the cost is not anywhere near the high end.
We generally will diagnose and assess these issues for free, and can give you a cost on options to move forward. This is the only fair way to do this, IMO. You just have to get your car to us (which we can help arrange, at your expense however). If for whatever reason our cost doesn't make sense vs dealing with Tesla directly, then we can get your car over to the local Tesla service center for you.
The problem I've seen with every single place that claims to work on Tesla batteries and such, besides my own company, is that they a) think everyone is an idiot and will buy whatever line of BS they're fed because batteries are "magic" that normal people don't understand, b) attempt to charge people exorbitant amounts of money for either nothing or things that aren't actually fixes for the issue, and c) generally are just regular mechanics that barely know anything about batteries/EVs, etc. I loathe this approach, and it irritates me to no end when people are like, "Well, company_xxxx told me [insert line of BS here], can't you just do that?" and we have to be the ones to explain to folks that they either go screwed, or they were about to be screwed.
In your case... yeah, sorry but, you got played by the place you took it to... and I'm pretty sure my staff would have told you this. I'm sorry to hear you were burned... and we unfortunately here this all the time now (at least once a week at this rate). I'm hoping someone sues these places into oblivion at some point because they're not doing the customers or the community a good service by spreading bogus information and charging for nonsense.
(Full disclosure: I've made no attempt to match this TMC member to any customer communication, so, coming in blind here.)
On to the issue:
It's definitely NOT a software problem. The errors you note are for isolation problems severe enough to cause the BMS to shutdown. This is generally from water or coolant ingress into a HV component, with either the battery or drive unit being the most common culprits. Since it's a 2013, it's most likely the battery and water ingress causing corrosion. This is super common on the 2012 to early 2014s. It's NOT repairable. You can NOT replace individual modules. I don't care how many views YouTube videos claiming this garbage have, it's complete nonsense. You can not replace a module and expect the car to function normally. The only solution is a complete battery swap. We do this service, but we can't price it without the car here to assess the condition of the original pack. The cost can range from a few thousand up to the price of a full replacement pack, depending on the actual damage. In most cases, if the car was recently drivable, the cost is not anywhere near the high end.
We generally will diagnose and assess these issues for free, and can give you a cost on options to move forward. This is the only fair way to do this, IMO. You just have to get your car to us (which we can help arrange, at your expense however). If for whatever reason our cost doesn't make sense vs dealing with Tesla directly, then we can get your car over to the local Tesla service center for you.
Thank you for your detailed response. Of all the people I have spoken with in the last 2 weeks, your team has been the most helpful and the most data drive and detailed. Thank you for being a source of information I can trust, during a time when making expensive decisions require having good information to go from . What I recall from my conversation with someone in your organization is they asked if an update had been performed after the Drive Unit was replaced and they had seen that it was needed on other cars. The comment about MCU 2 being more sensitive to battery issues came from a different vendor.
My battery was fine until the drive unit was replaced. Tesla did the MCU upgrade and QC did the Drive Unit and I drove straight from Tesla doing the MCU upgrade to the drive unit upgrade. So I didn't have time to assess which one brought up the issue. Before I had the work done the car had no errors or performance issues and Tesla had performed a full battery diagnostic (that I paid for as well). Before the drive unit was replaced the car had sat outside of QC Charge for 5 weeks and the problems only came up after the car was taken apart and disconnected from the 12V battery for 4 weeks. As soon sa they powered it back online they got the errors. What seems odd to me is that Tesla could perform a complete battery diagnostic at the Tesla service center the car had no issue and only after the drive unit replacement the car now has what appears to be a catastrophic battery failure. Tesla are performing the diagnostic now, so hopefully they will also be able to explain why it went from passing a battery diagnostic 8 weeks ago to now having this issue.
I might have missed in your earlier posts the sequence of events here, specifically:
If the car was working fine before the drive unit was replaced, this other place replaces it, and then it's immediately having issues... I'd lean heavily towards an issue with the replacement drive unit. Mainly because no one outside of Tesla or 057 that I'm aware of really has any way to fully test the drive units for issues prior to reusing them. There's a handful of places around the country that can install/program them to work in a Tesla vehicle, but have no way to test them fully outside of a vehicle. We reject many drive units due to isolation issues due to coolant ingress from bad inverter seals and such, and this may well be the case.
It's going to be one of two things in your case:
- Bad replacement drive unit causing an external isolation issue (this is the exact error from the BMS, actually, an external isolation fault)
- Bad battery with water ingress causing an isolation issue within the pack that the BMS is detecting as external (common on 2013's, but happening immediately after a drive unit replacement would make this a heck of a coincidence).
The place actually reconditions the existing drive unit. So they put ceramic bearings in and make some other "improvements".
Also the car is a 2014.
Honestly, that doesn't mean much. There's at least three places that claim to do this that..... well, don't.
Also, every single time I've seen a unit that had been cracked open by anyone other than Tesla, they've screwed up the inverter to casting seals and they leak.
So, dunno... still going to put my money on that unit.... like, 70/30 motor vs battery.
I work in IT and when things break the first question is what changed..... I agree, it seems they broke it and had the audacity to return the car still broken while charging me an additional $1K for the pleasure. I am waiting to hear back from Tesla still. They have been diagnosing it for 2 days.
dark cloud
Active Member
Last I heard from Tesla is that they think it’s the BMS that needs to be replaced. They said it’s covered by the warranty. It’s a 1-2 week wait for the parts.
I’m not too optimistic, but I’ll let them figure it out.
I have had no problem with range or anything regarding the main battery before the update. I have the 4G upgrade on the MCU1. The eMMC and SD-card was replaced a few months back. Also new 12V battery from last year.
I’ll keep you posted.
After I did update 2021.24.28 my car has a bms error tesla will say you need a new pack but trust me it's the software ask a 3rd party to flash you software back and don't update a older model s tesla is a falt for killing the older cars
It took 9 days from the tow to the SC for me to get the car back. They replaced the BMS and spent in total 7,3 hours of work.
Tesla HV battery warranty covered all costs, thankfully.
However, now Spotify won’t work.
Had this problem on a 2015 P85D, Took Tesla 3 years to solve the problem. In that time they replaced just about everything in the car. Same thing: screen full of errors, car picked up by flatbed, car worked fine the next day at the service centre. Turned out that it was a CANBUS fault that was giving erroneous error messages. After replacing what was most likely completely fine motors, so nboard chargers and battery pack, they discovered a rusted connector in the harness under the back seat. Mind you, that had to remove the entire wiring harness from the car and go over every single connection to find it.
Moral of the story: these cars utilise CANBUS like any other modern vehicle. Any error on that ring network can be interpreted as multiple failures that don’t actually exist. It will not help swapping out parts that the system reports have failed, when the failure lies in the error reporting system itself.
Moral of the story: these cars utilise CANBUS like any other modern vehicle. Any error on that ring network can be interpreted as multiple failures that don’t actually exist. It will not help swapping out parts that the system reports have failed, when the failure lies in the error reporting system itself.
I have a 2018 MX, 100D. I am getting these same errors.
"Electrical system power reduced. Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly." GTW_w018.
"Unable to Drive" DI_u014
"Air suspension adjustment unavailable" TAS_a218
My 12V battery is reading 12.6V on the multimeter, which is fine. I have replaced the F125 and F117 fuses.
Service center says to have it towed, but its tight in may garage and cannot get it out of park. I know answers are not common, I'll keep you posted.
"Electrical system power reduced. Vehicle may shut down unexpectedly." GTW_w018.
"Unable to Drive" DI_u014
"Air suspension adjustment unavailable" TAS_a218
My 12V battery is reading 12.6V on the multimeter, which is fine. I have replaced the F125 and F117 fuses.
Service center says to have it towed, but its tight in may garage and cannot get it out of park. I know answers are not common, I'll keep you posted.
I have the same issue with my model s. Can’t charge it because charging port won’t open by it self. I have force it open and insert the charging cable and the ring turns red. It happens after I made it home with 0% battery
. Since then just won’t charge and I have tried everything. Check fuses, open charger controller to check fuses and power splitter box fuses. Any help will be appreciated.
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