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Torklift Central Eco Hitch Installed - Pictures

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Everything went back together easily and the biggest issue was that the hitch receiver adapter (Aaron speaks to it and has pics of it above "Here's what the end of the hitch looks like...") didn't fit into the hitch itself :(. TorkLift was super responsive and they are sending me out another one to replace it.

Quick update: TorkLift sent the replacement hitch receiver very quickly and it for perfectly. Great customer service!

I will be doing my first tow this weekend about 40 miles away.
 
The ONE thing that EcoHitch did get correct is their suggestion that customers get a BODY SHOP to do the install for them. Someone with decades of experience taking cars apart and putting them back together.

The photos in the EcoHitch pdf file are good, but there are 'pages missing', likewise instructions missing. My photos were intended to complete the process of installing a hitch on the MS. You will need to locate them in the threads (plural) on TMC and make up a proper blog for yourself as you plan and execute the process. If you get stuck at some point just ask here, feedback is crucial. If you find a body shop willing and able to do this work EVEN THEY will appreciate a nice set of illustrated instructions.
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So am I correct in assuming (based on what I see here and the page on their site) that this hitch is designed for carrying small things like a bike rack, and not for actually towing a trailer?
 
So am I correct in assuming (based on what I see here and the page on their site) that this hitch is designed for carrying small things like a bike rack, and not for actually towing a trailer?

Just finished towing my motorcycle and trailer about 70 miles. All said and done, I was impressed with how much energy the car didn't use. Over the 70 miles I averaged 302 wh/mi with mixed highway and surface roads.

The car pulled strong with no issues and the hitch was very taught with no clunking or extra play. All in all it is a very good design.
 
Just finished towing my motorcycle and trailer about 70 miles. All said and done, I was impressed with how much energy the car didn't use. Over the 70 miles I averaged 302 wh/mi with mixed highway and surface roads.

The car pulled strong with no issues and the hitch was very taught with no clunking or extra play. All in all it is a very good design.

Thanks for that feedback. Considering getting it installed now :)
 
> I'm confused, was that in response to my question? [An Outsider]

Sorry, most of it got left behind in my editor. :redface:

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> So am I correct in assuming (based on what I see here and the page on their site) that this hitch is designed for carrying small things like a bike rack, and not for actually towing a trailer? [AnOutsider]

Hitches made for supporting/carrying also can pull/retard of course but liability issues scare small manufacturers into arbitrarily limiting their marketing to only carrying uses. Especially when the vehicle mfr prohibits or limits towing capacity. Subaru Forester limits trailering to 2k pounds and rates their hitch such, yet UHaul makes a hitch for it that they rate at 4k pounds maximum. You can guess which one I bought. Subaru is more concerned about stopping capabilities apparently. UHaul must feel that its extensive educational efforts, and its many accessories, provide a sufficiently sensible approach to the art of towing. That users who push the envelope a bit do so with awareness.

A new technology company like Tesla has no developed experience with utilitarian possibilities of their vehicles so runs screaming from the mere mention. Introducing LEGAL / LIABILITY / 'INTENDED USE' concepts into the otherwise happy universe of: 'Your MS and how it makes the world a better place', is like throwing a can of water onto a campfire (or a can of petrol). Either way the party is over.
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Just got my car back from getting the ecohitch installed - unfortunately, they cut the access opening the wrong way (it opens to the left vs. the right). Ramifications: Can't remove the hitch (b/c can't get access to the bolt head) and can't use the undercover. I'm dreading the talk with the body shop (who has installed these before) - but I fear that it's going to require replacing both underbody pieces that the opening cuts through. =(
 
Reviving this.

Couple questions:

Is the hitch for both size receivers actually the same hardware? In other words, can you just buy the other size "drop post" to use racks that need different size receivers?

With the cover on, is it visible?

Any concerns about possible corrosion between dissimilar metals with this installation? I'm not an expert or anything... just something I never thought about until I bought an aluminum car!
 
Is the hitch for both size receivers actually the same hardware? In other words, can you just buy the other size "drop post" to use racks that need different size receivers?

Geez you people are getting slow in your old age.

Received official word from Torklift:

"Thank you for contacting us about the EcoHitch for your Tesla Model S. There is no difference in installation between the 1.25” (X7202) and 2” (X7201) model Ecohitch’s. The Crosstube and mounting plates are the exact same for either/or receiver adapter. The only difference lies in the receiver adapter itself. The great thing about this hitch is that because it utilizes an adapter instead of a welded receiver, you can interchange the two sizes if you choose in the future. "
 
Can anyone recommend a hanging bike rack vs. a wheel platform rack?
I need a 4 bike rack but not sure if I should go with a popular hanging rack or something like the Saris Freedom where the wheels sit in a cup instead of the bike hanging from the cross bars.
 
Can anyone recommend a hanging bike rack vs. a wheel platform rack?
I need a 4 bike rack but not sure if I should go with a popular hanging rack or something like the Saris Freedom where the wheels sit in a cup instead of the bike hanging from the cross bars.

I don't have a specific rack recommendation (other than anything made by Thule), but here's a consideration:

A platform rack limits the angle of clearance by a fixed amount and is completely unalterable.
A hanging rack limits that angle only by the height of the outermost bike.

So, for example, if you're hauling a mixture of kids/adult bikes you would hang the adult bikes closest to the car and the kids' farther out for greater clearance.

I've also had times when I had to dismount the outermost bike on my hanging rack to make into a steep driveway-- but a platform rack would have to be completely unloaded AND removed for the same effect. Also, when going in rougher terrain with a hanging style, you can mount the bikes by using their vertical tubes instead of their top tube-- which effectively raises them up without being less secure to the rack (again, can't do that with a platform).
 
With the cover on, is it visible?

No, its's not visible. I would definitely get the cover and remove the receiver assembly during the off-season (winter in New England) or before a long-distance drive when you won't be using the hitch (improved aerodynamics and range). Removing the receiver also improves clearance on steep driveways/curb cuts.

The cover still leaves a hole where you reach in your thumb to pull it off - it's held on by a strong magnet - but it covers most of the cut-out area. I bought a cheap ratchet handle and socket to keep with the receiver/cover, and raise the suspension to make the switch that much easier.
 
Can anyone recommend a hanging bike rack vs. a wheel platform rack?
I need a 4 bike rack but not sure if I should go with a popular hanging rack or something like the Saris Freedom where the wheels sit in a cup instead of the bike hanging from the cross bars.

I have the Thule Apex 4 and have been happy with it. See my posts earlier in this thread for photo and pricing.