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Torn on which one to get

Several real world testings show a difference of about 10 miles. I have taken it on a 1200 mile road trip a couple times a year and tried the aeros once. They didn't noticably change my trip time or charging. But there may be more efficient rims out there
I would love to know what the coolest and most efficient rims are. Forgiato makes one but OF FREAKING COURSE it's 20".

Someone needs to make 18's cool again so the market accommodates it more.
 
I know this is not what the original poster is asking, but I chose the Model 3 SR+ because:

1) SR+ is plenty fast for me. I don't need AWD in California and the performance enhancement of the dual motors isn't important to me (I do understand how it's important to others).
2) I don't feel that Tesla makes a big enough effort to differentiate visually (both interior and exterior) between the SR+ versus the higher models.
3) 18" wheels ride better and the tires are cheaper to replace.
4) The additional range isn't needed for my needs. At most, I would need to supercharge one more time for any road trip for the # of miles I'm willing to drive per day (SF to LA for example).
5) I'll let the higher resale value of the Dual Motor/Performance versions keep my value up in the process.
6) All 3 versions are not sports cars. Yes they accelerate fast and can do some amazing things, but you still have to spending some serious money to get them track ready to last an entire day, and at that point, you should have started with a dedicated track car that's significantly lighter.

Just my opinion, and again everyone else has differing needs and wants.
 
I know this is not what the original poster is asking, but I chose the Model 3 SR+ because:

1) SR+ is plenty fast for me. I don't need AWD in California and the performance enhancement of the dual motors isn't important to me (I do understand how it's important to others).
2) I don't feel that Tesla makes a big enough effort to differentiate visually (both interior and exterior) between the SR+ versus the higher models.
3) 18" wheels ride better and the tires are cheaper to replace.
4) The additional range isn't needed for my needs. At most, I would need to supercharge one more time for any road trip for the # of miles I'm willing to drive per day (SF to LA for example).
5) I'll let the higher resale value of the Dual Motor/Performance versions keep my value up in the process.
6) All 3 versions are not sports cars. Yes they accelerate fast and can do some amazing things, but you still have to spending some serious money to get them track ready to last an entire day, and at that point, you should have started with a dedicated track car that's significantly lighter.

Just my opinion, and again everyone else has differing needs and wants.
Solid. I really resonate with the fact they aren't visually very distinguishable. It's just add ons like different wheel or a spoiler. All things you can do yourself and might so visually speaking, you can easily and affordably do that but the overall car still looks almost the exact same. It is still not a race car, true. The higher trim versions are mostly just faster with better gripping tires in the relevant conditions...

I also definitely almost never need the extra range. And once I am up to speed, I'm up to speed and only a second or so later. It's still not a slow car, the SR, by any means.

I like the idea that the AWD maybe more evenly wears tires and I do like how driving feels with AWD a lot. The acceleration through turns is very nice and confident. It's that plus the range for me and the bit of extra speed which is very appreciated and fun. It's tempting to get caught up in the last thing but then realizing I want to undo some of that which comes with the performance is a turn off as well. Whatever I get, I want 18's on my ride.

I am currently more so feeling the SR or LR. SR just sounds so darn affordable and good enough but the upgrade to LR is definitely not lost on me. Maybe I'd be happy either way haha. Should I flip a coin?
 
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DareRekt

Member
Jun 5, 2019
13
6
NW Ohio
Obviously it's a game of price to is it worth it.

I think the long range is a nice balance but when you look at the monthly payment, going for performance is just another 100 a month. However, first thing I'd want to do is get rid of the wheels and go down to 18's for ride comfort and what not. So right away I'd hope to sell the wheels and tires and replace with something aftermarket.

Standard range sounds nice enough. I can feel the difference in how it drives only having power in the rear. Speakers are meh but I could live with it. I drive with headphones sometimes anyway for the noise cancelling.

With the way Tesla holds value right now (and I know it won't necessarily always be this way) it's both tempting to get the base or high version since maybe I won't keep either too long.

I'm even contemplating the Y. It seems more practical but it's definitely less comfortable and a little less range. Extra storage is nice but first thing I'd do is upgrade the suspension. Don't feel I'd need to on the 3.

I'm so lost...Lord help me make a decision.

There's also the one where you just keep waiting because of a fear of buyer's remorse. This is where the idea of it holding value well comes into play, though.

What a mess...

Planning to wrap in stealth whatever I get.
I'm 100% in the same boat. I want the M3P, but the 20" wheels make literally zero sense to me with our somewhat harsh winters and I'm not buying a car that's not going to be a daily driver. I'm fine with spending a bit on wheels and tires to make it more usable here, but I guess I need to know that I'll be able to unload the 20" wheels/tires to pay for it. It's just an extra hassle after spending extra, lol.
 
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fuddy

Member
Oct 25, 2020
232
197
NJ
I'm 100% in the same boat. I want the M3P, but the 20" wheels make literally zero sense to me with our somewhat harsh winters and I'm not buying a car that's not going to be a daily driver. I'm fine with spending a bit on wheels and tires to make it more usable here, but I guess I need to know that I'll be able to unload the 20" wheels/tires to pay for it. It's just an extra hassle after spending extra, lol.
You know you can buy new wheels right? I never understood this argument against getting the P3. I sold my uberturbines for 3k about a week after I took them off the car. That more than paid for my new wheels and tires.
 
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DareRekt

Member
Jun 5, 2019
13
6
NW Ohio
You know you can buy new wheels right? I never understood this argument against getting the P3. I sold my uberturbines for 3k about a week after I took them off the car. That more than paid for my new wheels and tires.
That's good to hear. The combo I'm looking at is right around that $3K mark. I'm in an area without a lot of Teslas, so I'd more than likely need to ship them, so it is a bit of a hassle. I do appreciate the feedback though, since I've only seen one or two completed listings on eBay for the wheels (outside of just a single). I still have some time, I'm waiting until the spring to purchase. I recently sold my 2019 Model 3 LR RWD and I'm just waiting it out.
 
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Gasaraki

Active Member
Oct 21, 2019
2,325
1,612
Syracuse, NY
Obviously it's a game of price to is it worth it.

I think the long range is a nice balance but when you look at the monthly payment, going for performance is just another 100 a month. However, first thing I'd want to do is get rid of the wheels and go down to 18's for ride comfort and what not. So right away I'd hope to sell the wheels and tires and replace with something aftermarket.

Standard range sounds nice enough. I can feel the difference in how it drives only having power in the rear. Speakers are meh but I could live with it. I drive with headphones sometimes anyway for the noise cancelling.

With the way Tesla holds value right now (and I know it won't necessarily always be this way) it's both tempting to get the base or high version since maybe I won't keep either too long.

I'm even contemplating the Y. It seems more practical but it's definitely less comfortable and a little less range. Extra storage is nice but first thing I'd do is upgrade the suspension. Don't feel I'd need to on the 3.

I'm so lost...Lord help me make a decision.

There's also the one where you just keep waiting because of a fear of buyer's remorse. This is where the idea of it holding value well comes into play, though.

What a mess...

Planning to wrap in stealth whatever I get.

Wow, you really need help... :D

You have to at least narrow it down to the Model you want... That's like saying "umm I don't know which BMW to buy, help me choose".

If you have the money to spend, cause it sounds like you do, why would you even consider the SR+ and then wrapping it, changing wheels, changing suspension, etc, basically wasting money on a car that's not worth as much. If the performance is "only $100 a month more", then just go for that and be done with. Get the model Y if you want more space, get the Model 3 if you want a sports car.
 

dduffey

Member
Aug 26, 2015
435
371
Austin, TX
I still have some time, I'm waiting until the spring to purchase. I recently sold my 2019 Model 3 LR RWD and I'm just waiting it out.

I am curious why you decided to sell, what you are driving now, why wait, and I assume you are wanting to move to M3P?

Sorry for being nosy, I know it's a personal decision but looks like not a financial reason.

I have a 2018 LR RWD and wonder how long I will keep it. Depending on when the CT ships I may sell it then or keep it for my daughter.
 
Not sure you should drive with headphones, especially noise cancelling. With loud music and windows up it can be difficult to hear emergency vehicles, so I imagine it's impossible with noise cancellation on.

That being said, when making your decision also consider that while a higher trim model may cost more initially, you'll be able to sell it for more. So the actual ownership cost won't be the difference between the purchase prices, but actually less than that.

Although, if you're going to swap parts (suspension, wheels, etc) expect to take a hit on resale. I've found that (with higher end cars especially) any type of aftermarket modifications hurt the value.

I really don't think there is a "wrong" decision when it comes to the model 3 (or Y for the matter). They're all incredible cars. I ended up getting the performance model 3 because I wanted the bat out of hell acceleration, but I've found I'm not a fan of the giant boat anchor wheels (from a high speed acceleration and efficiency standpoint) and I prefer the slick back cars without the spoiler.

Cheers
Charlie
 
That being said, when making your decision also consider that while a higher trim model may cost more initially, you'll be able to sell it for more. So the actual ownership cost won't be the difference between the purchase prices, but actually less than that.
That's true, and in fact I've tried to quantify that. Using KBB trade in value (for reference purposes only, I priced the trade in value of a 2019 SR+, white, with 24K miles in "very good" condition with zero options versus a 2019 M3P, white with 24K miles in "very good" condition with "premium wheels". The difference in trade-in value was ~$8,200 (and that difference shrinks over time), but the purchase price difference is (currently) $17,000.

That is why I wrote in post #42: "I'll let the higher resale value of the Dual Motor/Performance versions keep my value up in the process."
 
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fuddy

Member
Oct 25, 2020
232
197
NJ
That's good to hear. The combo I'm looking at is right around that $3K mark. I'm in an area without a lot of Teslas, so I'd more than likely need to ship them, so it is a bit of a hassle. I do appreciate the feedback though, since I've only seen one or two completed listings on eBay for the wheels (outside of just a single). I still have some time, I'm waiting until the spring to purchase. I recently sold my 2019 Model 3 LR RWD and I'm just waiting it out.
Subscribe to the for sale section on this site, as soon as someone posts them you'll get a notification. It's how I found my set.
 
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cardsdoc

Member
May 5, 2021
106
64
Ohio
Solid. I really resonate with the fact they aren't visually very distinguishable. It's just add ons like different wheel or a spoiler. All things you can do yourself and might so visually speaking, you can easily and affordably do that but the overall car still looks almost the exact same. It is still not a race car, true. The higher trim versions are mostly just faster with better gripping tires in the relevant conditions...

I also definitely almost never need the extra range. And once I am up to speed, I'm up to speed and only a second or so later. It's still not a slow car, the SR, by any means.

I like the idea that the AWD maybe more evenly wears tires and I do like how driving feels with AWD a lot. The acceleration through turns is very nice and confident. It's that plus the range for me and the bit of extra speed which is very appreciated and fun. It's tempting to get caught up in the last thing but then realizing I want to undo some of that which comes with the performance is a turn off as well. Whatever I get, I want 18's on my ride.

I am currently more so feeling the SR or LR. SR just sounds so darn affordable and good enough but the upgrade to LR is definitely not lost on me. Maybe I'd be happy either way haha. Should I flip a coin?

Don't get the SR+. Part of what makes theses cars so fun is the acceleration and while the instant torque is still there and 0-60 in the 5s range is not slow it's rather run of the mill for entry sport sedans. The LR is definitely worth it if you can afford it - it's a big difference. While I'm probably still in the honeymoon phase with my car (2 months in) I look forward to my commutes everyday and any other opportunity to get in it and drive.
 
I'm 100% in the same boat. I want the M3P, but the 20" wheels make literally zero sense to me with our somewhat harsh winters and I'm not buying a car that's not going to be a daily driver. I'm fine with spending a bit on wheels and tires to make it more usable here, but I guess I need to know that I'll be able to unload the 20" wheels/tires to pay for it. It's just an extra hassle after spending extra, lol.
It is. In theory it should pay for whatever you switch to, within reason, but it could take a while and it's kind of a lot of space to take up and shipping wheels sort of sucks and costs a few hundred bucks. But now I'm starting to consider that insurance might be higher on performance (I should check) but also might not hold value as easily as the LR or SR would.

I'd really like to see the model 2 but who knows how far that really is or if I'll even want it. It's too speculative now but I could more quickly sell the SR or LR if I wanted to and take less of a hit financially if the prices get gouged.
 
Don't get the SR+. Part of what makes theses cars so fun is the acceleration and while the instant torque is still there and 0-60 in the 5s range is not slow it's rather run of the mill for entry sport sedans. The LR is definitely worth it if you can afford it - it's a big difference. While I'm probably still in the honeymoon phase with my car (2 months in) I look forward to my commutes everyday and any other opportunity to get in it and drive.
This is fair. I think the upgrade from SR to LR is much greater value and significance than the next level up. It's just faster and mostly has things I don't want. I forget that I don't want my suspension lowered either.
 
Not sure you should drive with headphones, especially noise cancelling. With loud music and windows up it can be difficult to hear emergency vehicles, so I imagine it's impossible with noise cancellation on. It doesn't necessarily make the ambulance less audible. It does more so for background noise. In some ways, one could make the argument that noise cancelling is safer than non noise cancelling headphones. I'd be on that side of the conversation for sure. I consider myself an extremely safe driver but I think that law is somewhat unreasonable but surely many people would turn up their headphones up way too loud so I get it. But I should be the one exception to this rule haha. So I'll take my chances. Plus, aren't deaf people allowed to drive?

That being said, when making your decision also consider that while a higher trim model may cost more initially, you'll be able to sell it for more. So the actual ownership cost won't be the difference between the purchase prices, but actually less than that.

Although, if you're going to swap parts (suspension, wheels, etc) expect to take a hit on resale. I've found that (with higher end cars especially) any type of aftermarket modifications hurt the value.

I really don't think there is a "wrong" decision when it comes to the model 3 (or Y for the matter). They're all incredible cars. I ended up getting the performance model 3 because I wanted the bat out of hell acceleration, but I've found I'm not a fan of the giant boat anchor wheels (from a high speed acceleration and efficiency standpoint) and I prefer the slick back cars without the spoiler.

Cheers
Charlie
I agree with the headphones thing but consider this, my hearing is better off for having headphones cancel noise than music turned up more. Also, some vehicles next to you are so freaking loud either by engine noise or music they are playing that everyone around them couldn't clearly hear an emergency vehicle. Noise cancelling really just deletes the wind and road noise and leaves the rest alone quite well, making it easy to enjoy at a much lower volume. But for me personally, my sense of hearing is very strong. I mix and master/engineer music so I tend to hear the slightest things. But I genuinely think for me and many it could be safer than loud music, which is basically unregulated realistically.

I might be leaning towards the SR at the point. I drive my family's model y LR very often and the acceleration never gets old. Model 3 LR would be a whole half second faster than that. I might be less tempted to get aftermarket things as well.

I know for the model Y I'm not satisfied with the ride quality and I'd absolutely get suspension on the after market like right away but it could hurt the resale value.

Have you done much aftermarket to your car?
 
Wow, you really need help... :D

You have to at least narrow it down to the Model you want... That's like saying "umm I don't know which BMW to buy, help me choose".

If you have the money to spend, cause it sounds like you do, why would you even consider the SR+ and then wrapping it, changing wheels, changing suspension, etc, basically wasting money on a car that's not worth as much. If the performance is "only $100 a month more", then just go for that and be done with. Get the model Y if you want more space, get the Model 3 if you want a sports car.
I just hesitate making decisions I'm not totally confident in and this one has stressed me out a little. Honestly the perfect combination would have been the stealth model 3. But that's not quite on the table now and the AB is not quite as fast. Whatever...

I think I consistently lean back to the model 3 over the Y.

And as long as I'm happy with the purchase, it will make sense to me financially. But I hate paying for things I'm not happy with haha. Who doesn't? Maybe me more than most, though? Hence all this indecisiveness from me.

After reading today's comments I do feel more at peace with the LR. The performance might be fine but I might as well just get the S LR at that point. But it's too new yet I don't want to wait any longer for my Tesla.

That being said, I actually know I'd prefer the LR S to the plaid. I do have a line where 3.1 seconds is very plenty and by then I just want more range and comfort.

Watch me take like 6 months to decide and just end up getting an S hahaha. That would be frustrating yet funny.

Idk, it's a hatchback! The one thing I really wish the model 3 was. One reason it's harder to decide between that and the Y. Literally zero interest in the Y compared to the 3 if 3 was a hatchback. But it changes a lot of things... Like useful storage and I like to put my bike and other things I can't like I could in a Tesla or my freaking Prius...

Stresssssss
 
I agree with the headphones thing but consider this, my hearing is better off for having headphones cancel noise than music turned up more. Also, some vehicles next to you are so freaking loud either by engine noise or music they are playing that everyone around them couldn't clearly hear an emergency vehicle. Noise cancelling really just deletes the wind and road noise and leaves the rest alone quite well, making it easy to enjoy at a much lower volume. But for me personally, my sense of hearing is very strong. I mix and master/engineer music so I tend to hear the slightest things. But I genuinely think for me and many it could be safer than loud music, which is basically unregulated realistically.

I might be leaning towards the SR at the point. I drive my family's model y LR very often and the acceleration never gets old. Model 3 LR would be a whole half second faster than that. I might be less tempted to get aftermarket things as well.

I know for the model Y I'm not satisfied with the ride quality and I'd absolutely get suspension on the after market like right away but it could hurt the resale value.

Have you done much aftermarket to your car?

Gotcha. Just to be clear, I'm not saying loud music is good either.

If you get a LR you can always buy the acceleration boost or look into the company that makes the full acceleration unlock module (although its debatable whether that would void your warranty or cause harm to the inverter/battery/motors).

IF you plan on tracking the car, I think the P is an easier decision. The inclusion of track mode (which as far as I know isn't available on any other trim level) + the larger brakes make it more suitable for the demands of the track. It still isn't a great track car from what I understand, but it should be serviceable for a HPDE event.

If you're not going to track but you just want the face melting acceleration, why isn't the stealth on the table? Those tend to be a little cheaper than the full PUP package - and you get the 19" or 18" wheels which helps with range.

Regarding aftermarket for my car I've kept it minimal. Vinyl chrome delete (I have a 2019), hardwired my valentine 1 radar detector to a switchable 12v source and mounted it with a blendmount, nomad wireless charging pad. I also purchased the Tesla rear roof sunshade and the frunk/trunk rubber matts. Basically all things that are easily removed and won't impact resale value. Regarding ride and suspension I haven't felt the need. I'm coming from a 911 C4S, so the ride comfort level in the Model 3 is better, and I don't think any amount of time or money will give me the same handling and cornering characteristics of what I had before so I don't see any reason to mess with it. I'm just enjoying the car for what it is and very happy with it so far.
 
Gotcha. Just to be clear, I'm not saying loud music is good either.

If you get a LR you can always buy the acceleration boost or look into the company that makes the full acceleration unlock module (although its debatable whether that would void your warranty or cause harm to the inverter/battery/motors).

IF you plan on tracking the car, I think the P is an easier decision. The inclusion of track mode (which as far as I know isn't available on any other trim level) + the larger brakes make it more suitable for the demands of the track. It still isn't a great track car from what I understand, but it should be serviceable for a HPDE event.

If you're not going to track but you just want the face melting acceleration, why isn't the stealth on the table? Those tend to be a little cheaper than the full PUP package - and you get the 19" or 18" wheels which helps with range.

Regarding aftermarket for my car I've kept it minimal. Vinyl chrome delete (I have a 2019), hardwired my valentine 1 radar detector to a switchable 12v source and mounted it with a blendmount, nomad wireless charging pad. I also purchased the Tesla rear roof sunshade and the frunk/trunk rubber matts. Basically all things that are easily removed and won't impact resale value. Regarding ride and suspension I haven't felt the need. I'm coming from a 911 C4S, so the ride comfort level in the Model 3 is better, and I don't think any amount of time or money will give me the same handling and cornering characteristics of what I had before so I don't see any reason to mess with it. I'm just enjoying the car for what it is and very happy with it so far.
I don't think they do stealth anymore? They used to. Now it's just the acceleration boost upgrade. Which isn't as fast. Really interesting about the mod but it sounds a little risky.

Hmm how's the radar? Does it really help? Can count on it almost always? It might change how I drive haha. I heard they have radar detector detectors.
 

Knightshade

Well-Known Member
Jul 31, 2017
13,988
24,363
NC
If you get a LR you can always buy the acceleration boost or look into the company that makes the full acceleration unlock module (although its debatable whether that would void your warranty or cause harm to the inverter/battery/motors).


The 3rd party full unlock does not work on any LR made in over 2 years.

It only works on the LR AWD cars that got a 980 rear motor (these cars are physically identical to the P3D-)- so just about all LR AWD made in 2018, and SOME made in 2019 and that's it.

LR AWD since mid-late 2019 use the 990 rear motor which can not be fully unlocked even by 3rd parties as its a less capable motor.
 

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