Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Torque wrench and socket recommendations

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
No, hazard fraught is crap! Good for sockets and breaker bars, but get a good torque wrench. Craftsman is now crapman, unless you find an older one. Not sure about Lowe's or HD brands but I think Kobalt has a warranty. I suggest the snap on industrsil brand, CDI torque products....
 
There are some pretty cool digital torque wrenches but I can't justify the cost to use it maybe 4 times a year. Normally you get what you pay for. A $20 torque wrench? I have to question its accuracy.
 
Get the Harbor Freight stuff. It costs $10 on sale and if it breaks, you can buy another one. Do not listen to the naysayers about HF. It opens about a 100 new stores every year because it's stuff is cheap and works well in cases where usage is limited.

You could spend a ton on Snap-On or enough on Craftsman but you can't beat HarborFreight on pricing. If you are a garage or an auto shop, it's definitely not the place to shop. If you are an amateur mechanic, it's heaven especially when it comes to working with pullers, presses and special tools for suspension work.

I just replaced all 3 of my worn out Craftsman torque wrenches (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) with HF wrenches for $30 combined. I can replace them every 5 years and still not spend more than my 20-year old Craftsman. No brainer.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: MC408
Here's the product mix I went with:

21mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NC1SDAU/

Torque Wrench
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

Breaker Bar
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWVAUT6/

Torque Wrench - Compare Tekton to Snap-on

How To Use Tekton Torque Wrench


Thanks. This looks like a reasonably priced option, I like it.

I don’t plan to change my own wheels, just wanted this stuff to re-torque after changes or check if they loosen.

I don’t need a breaker bar, unless I plan to change then, right? Or should I loosen before tightening even when re torquing?

Thanks.
 
...I don’t plan to change my own wheels, just wanted this stuff to re-torque after changes or check if they loosen. I don’t need a breaker bar, unless I plan to change then, right? Or should I loosen before tightening even when re torquing?
Since you mention checking them after somebody else did the tire changes, if you applied the torque wrench it would not tell you if the lugs were over torqued. (The torque wrench would "click" at the 129 ft. pound setting even if the lugs were torqued past 129 by whoever installed them.) So, with the inexpensive cost of the breaker bar... I'd vote in favor of getting it to cover the option of loosening the lug slightly and torquing it yourself and re-checking it ~50 miles later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MC408 and snellenr
I have the 1/2” drive kobalt (Lowes brand), Harbor Freight, and some industrial grade torque wrenches. I buy the pricey ones on eBay and then send them in for calibration...

They all remain within 1-2 ft-lbs measured at 100 ft-lbs on a digital torque “checker”. Surprised me. Even the cheapies.

The kobalt has a nice feel and finish for the price. The fancy ones do adjust easier.

Follow the instructions and back off the torque setting when not in use. If you leave it set to 130 ft-lbs all the time, it can affect the accuracy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: e645824 and MC408
I have the 1/2” drive kobalt (Lowes brand), Harbor Freight, and some industrial grade torque wrenches. I buy the pricey ones on eBay and then send them in for calibration...

They all remain within 1-2 ft-lbs measured at 100 ft-lbs on a digital torque “checker”. Surprised me. Even the cheapies.

The kobalt has a nice feel and finish for the price. The fancy ones do adjust easier.

Follow the instructions and back off the torque setting when not in use. If you leave it set to 130 ft-lbs all the time, it can affect the accuracy.

Where do you send them for calibration?