It sure is.
And they are “fine” until they have to perform an emergency maneuver while towing and then lose control of their vehicle as it is whipsawed by the mass of their trailer.
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And they are “fine” until they have to perform an emergency maneuver while towing and then lose control of their vehicle as it is whipsawed by the mass of their trailer.
Anyone tried towing with a small lightweight motorcycle trailer?
Here are the dimensions of a trailer towed by a motorcycle, 18 Cubic Feet, - 190 lb empty weight
- 5-star brushed aluminum wheel
- 5.30x12 inch 6-ply tires.
- EZ grease zerk fittings
- Box dimensions - 57 3/4" long, 28" wide, 18" deep
- Overall dimensions - 95 1/2" L x 47" W
- Coupler size 1 7/8"
- 11 lb tongue weight
- 600 lb Independent Torsion Axles
- 500 lb carry capacity
Here are the dimensions of a trailer towed by a motorcycle, 18 Cubic Feet, - 190 lb empty weight
- 5-star brushed aluminum wheel
- 5.30x12 inch 6-ply tires.
- EZ grease zerk fittings
- Box dimensions - 57 3/4" long, 28" wide, 18" deep
- Overall dimensions - 95 1/2" L x 47" W
- Coupler size 1 7/8"
- 11 lb tongue weight
- 600 lb Independent Torsion Axles
- 500 lb carry capacity
WECinNC
Member
I use this aluminum ball mount: Alumistinger.
Curt and others make a similar one. Note the greaseless ball at Anderson. I love that I don’t have messy grease to contend with.
WECinNC
Member
I pull this LivinLite Quicksilver 6.0 which is <900 lbs dry weight. I don’t even notice I’m pulling it so you won’t either with your motorcycle trailer. Minimal hit to efficiency due to the low weight and drag.
Flybuddy
Member
At typical towing speeds of 50-60mph the primary factor that effects energy usage is aerodynamics.
At much lower speeds the primary factor is rolling resistance and weight.
At much lower speeds the primary factor is rolling resistance and weight.
Thanks for your post. I had not heard of “greaseless” hitch balls. However, although the Alumistinger is covered by a “lifetime warranty” I’m not sure I would trust my trailer to a $13 hitch ball.
Andersen makes a 2” greaseless hitch ball for $50.
To use or not use a weight distribution hitch with a model Y is an interesting topic and one that I am also dealing with as we have a Y on order and a small travel trailer (comparable specs to the Bambi) we are planning to tow with it.
Here are some facts I have learned as well as some personal thoughts and opinions I have on the matter.
Fact:
-The model Y has a factory installed class 2 hitch. From everything I've ever read, a class 2 hitch is technically NOT rated to use a WD hitch. So in theory this discussion should be dead in the water and no one should be using a WD hitch on the Y.
-People out there are definitely using WD hitches with the model Y.
My take on this:
-A weight distribution hitch works by applying leverage to the tow vehicle. Picture a clock face, with the hour hand pointing to 3 being the tow vehicle, the minute hand pointing to the 9 being the trailer, and the ball mount being the center of the clock. When you apply tension to the WD system the tow vehicle will try to point 'down' towards the 6. This leverage is applied solely through the mount point(s) of the hitch to the tow vehicle. The mount points on a class 2 hitch are limited as to how far 'forward' they reach and connect to the tow vehicle compared to a class 3 or higher hitch which extend much further forward and connect to the vehicle frame. The 'lever' on a class 2 hitch is effectively shorter so a given amount of force applied from the WD hitch (trying to rotate the tow vehicle 'down' towards 6) will result in a larger force at the connection points (bolts holding the hitch to the vehicle). A WD hitch is capable of applying a huge amount of leverage so this is why a class 2 technically isn't rated for WD.
-The amount of tension in the WD system is variable and set by the user. Too much tension would surely cause a class 2 to fail (at some point) but a there is probably a level of tension that would be tolerable, especially when we're dealing with trailers that are relatively light (as trailers go).
-A WD hitch and its components weigh around 80lbs which is being added to your tongue weight so if you are already at the limit without a WD hitch, this is another factor to consider.
-I've read through the towing section of the model Y manual and don't actually recall seeing anything about not using a WD hitch.
So the question is; is there a sweet spot where you can get away with a WD hitch on the Y as long as it is set to a reasonable tension that sets the balance between helping to level the tow vehicle but not put too much strain (forward rotation) on the hitch? OR do you reduce your tongue weight by 80ish lbs and not use a WD hitch. I am personally leaning to the former option and using a WD hitch....but would insurance/warranty be void if you ever had an issue?? (back to not seeing anything in the manual stating you cannot use a wd hitch).
Just to further confuse things, a lot of class 2 hitches use a smaller 1 1/4" receiver where the Y's is a full size 2" which makes it a lot more inviting for using a WD hitch.
Sorry for the long post! Lots to consider and ponder here....
Here are some facts I have learned as well as some personal thoughts and opinions I have on the matter.
Fact:
-The model Y has a factory installed class 2 hitch. From everything I've ever read, a class 2 hitch is technically NOT rated to use a WD hitch. So in theory this discussion should be dead in the water and no one should be using a WD hitch on the Y.
-People out there are definitely using WD hitches with the model Y.
My take on this:
-A weight distribution hitch works by applying leverage to the tow vehicle. Picture a clock face, with the hour hand pointing to 3 being the tow vehicle, the minute hand pointing to the 9 being the trailer, and the ball mount being the center of the clock. When you apply tension to the WD system the tow vehicle will try to point 'down' towards the 6. This leverage is applied solely through the mount point(s) of the hitch to the tow vehicle. The mount points on a class 2 hitch are limited as to how far 'forward' they reach and connect to the tow vehicle compared to a class 3 or higher hitch which extend much further forward and connect to the vehicle frame. The 'lever' on a class 2 hitch is effectively shorter so a given amount of force applied from the WD hitch (trying to rotate the tow vehicle 'down' towards 6) will result in a larger force at the connection points (bolts holding the hitch to the vehicle). A WD hitch is capable of applying a huge amount of leverage so this is why a class 2 technically isn't rated for WD.
-The amount of tension in the WD system is variable and set by the user. Too much tension would surely cause a class 2 to fail (at some point) but a there is probably a level of tension that would be tolerable, especially when we're dealing with trailers that are relatively light (as trailers go).
-A WD hitch and its components weigh around 80lbs which is being added to your tongue weight so if you are already at the limit without a WD hitch, this is another factor to consider.
-I've read through the towing section of the model Y manual and don't actually recall seeing anything about not using a WD hitch.
So the question is; is there a sweet spot where you can get away with a WD hitch on the Y as long as it is set to a reasonable tension that sets the balance between helping to level the tow vehicle but not put too much strain (forward rotation) on the hitch? OR do you reduce your tongue weight by 80ish lbs and not use a WD hitch. I am personally leaning to the former option and using a WD hitch....but would insurance/warranty be void if you ever had an issue?? (back to not seeing anything in the manual stating you cannot use a wd hitch).
Just to further confuse things, a lot of class 2 hitches use a smaller 1 1/4" receiver where the Y's is a full size 2" which makes it a lot more inviting for using a WD hitch.
Sorry for the long post! Lots to consider and ponder here....
great post @WALLEVE . To your point on it not being in the manual with regards to using a WD hitch, I was sure you were wrong, so went to check and I didn't see it in their either. I think it used to not be recommended though - does anyone else remember reading that? I wonder if they took it out and updated the manual.
We’ll, with 338 pounds of hitch weight and about 105 pounds in the back hatch the model Y squats about 3/4 of an inch. In my opinion with that kind of weight one doesn’t need a WDH for a model Y if one stays within the hitch weight. And this is what it looks like.
Midnightsun
Active Member
Do you guys think I am OK to tow a single PWC on a light weight aluminum trailer for about 225km without a charge if I keep my speed to around 110kph? Virtually flat 95% highway all the way to destination. Will leave with 100% charge. Pretty aerodynamic compared to a trailer.
How heavy is it? I think you will be right at the limit of range so would have a back-up plan of possible - where you could drop the trailer and come back, other non-Tesla chargers, etc. If you run into a headwind you likely won't make it and even without one I probably wouldn't chance it. And would probably drive slower than 110kph (~68mph) and closer to 90kph (~55mph)
Try and keep it inline and low as possible. Are you talking 225km round trip?
I towed 2 big skis behind my Y and it basically cut my range in half towing at about 110kph. You should do better with just one ski but I was towing in fairly flat Florida too.
Midnightsun
Active Member
Probably just shy of 1,000 lbs total for trailer and PWC, thinking 950lbs would be just about right. Will be leaving Thursday morning for our long weekend and report back on how I did. I have a few places to charge on the way there thanks to the CCS adapter otherwise I would not even try to make it. At destination I have a least 4, J1772 flo units at the marina I can use to fill her up also and the good part about those is they are free of charge. 
The 225km is one way however the PWC stays at the marina for the summer so empty load back.
The 225km is one way however the PWC stays at the marina for the summer so empty load back.
It sounds doable. I had 2 Sea Doo RXT-X 300's on a tandem trailer about 36 cm wider than my Y. If you can charge when you get there, you can always slow down to make it. Try setting it up with a better route planner and ad the trailer to the car as part of the config. It can tell if you would have to drive slower to make it.
Thanks so much for posting this @Webeevdrivers ! Nice to see some real world data here and appreciate the numbers you included.
Sorry @Webeevdrivers I had meant to also ask what the weight of your trailer is and how do you find it the Y generally handles it (Steering / braking etc) with that amount of squat. If it’s not too personal to ask, do you have any previous towing experience for comparison? Also if you could share any details about your ball mount that would be great too. It looks like it has a lift of an inch or so.
Sorry for the barrage of questions!
it’s just nice to be able to ask someone with real world experience. Thanks!
Midnightsun
Active Member
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