TPMS assigned to wrong wheel

[CybeRJEE]

Collected my MYLR yesterday from Staines - build quality looking good, about 50% charge so plenty to get home, love the car so far!

Unfortunately took a first scenic drive today and got a tyre pressure warning for the front left. Pulled over and checked, looked fine, stopped at a garage and pressure was bang on 42. The TPMS then told me the front left was down to 25 psi, took another look and all was fine. Then when I got home I noticed the valve cap was missing from the rear left tyre when it had definitely been there that day before, so got my inflator out and sure enough the pressure was <25psi. The incriminating bolt in the attached photos. So, looks like my TPMS are assigned to the wrong wheels, which isn't great but am sure Tesla can sort easily.

A couple of questions if anyone has any experience? Looks like the screw part in the tyre will be about 5-7mm diameter, has anyone successfully had the Michelin Pilot Sport EV's repaired with a hole that size? And I don't have any jack pads yet - does anyone recommend a tyre place that knows what they're doing with the battery? I'm based in Wokingham, BERKS.

Cheers

 

[init6]

You used to be able to manually reset the TPMS - see this post:

Tyre pressure alert this morning - all values the same?

Hi, so as per the photo below has anyone else had similar? In all my years driving cars with TPMS I have never had an alert like this. The weather was a balmy 2 degrees Celsius outside, and it did clear after a 40 mile commute. However, I’m wondering if it’s worth maybe topping the pressures...

teslamotorsclub.com

Without going out to the car I can't check if that option is still there.

 

[CybeRJEE]

You used to be able to manually reset the TPMS - see this post:

Tyre pressure alert this morning - all values the same?

Hi, so as per the photo below has anyone else had similar? In all my years driving cars with TPMS I have never had an alert like this. The weather was a balmy 2 degrees Celsius outside, and it did clear after a 40 mile commute. However, I’m wondering if it’s worth maybe topping the pressures...

teslamotorsclub.com

Without going out to the car I can't check if that option is still there.

Thanks, don't see the same options now so think it's changed. I doubt resetting from in the vehicle would have any impact on the Bluetooth assignment for the sensors though(?).

Cheers

 

[munkypuzel]

May sound silly - but will changing the wheels over solve this?

 

[munkypuzel]

Not the puncture obviously!!

 

[CybeRJEE]

May sound silly - but will changing the wheels over solve this?

I guess so... tyres are the same front and back. I suspect, though, that reassigning (I understand the sensors communicate with the car via bluetooth from Dr Google...?) would be a lot easier for Tesla to do and can be done remotely.

Thanks though - not silly, eminently sensible!

 

[Sean.]

A couple of questions if anyone has any experience? Looks like the screw part in the tyre will be about 5-7mm diameter, has anyone successfully had the Michelin Pilot Sport EV's repaired with a hole that size? And I don't have any jack pads yet - does anyone recommend a tyre place that knows what they're doing with the battery?

You should be able to get that successfully plugged. It's not in the shoulder of the tyre (a no no area for plug repairs) and the shank of the bolt will likely only be around 3mm. In any event its worth at least a good look with a decent tyre fitters/repair shop.

Worth getting a set of jack pads off eBay.

Don't go to Kwik Krisis!

 

[munkypuzel]

Just to add - I had a puncture like this in both rear wheels in my first month of MY ownership. Both plugged. One by a national chain who really did not want to do it - I had to almost beg! Second time by a sensible independent tyre shop - no dramas there. Just peel the foam back and get on with it..

I though this was gonna be a 'Heavy EV ownership problem' - was just bad luck.

I've done another 4000 miles since punctures - no problems

 

[Neilman]

Collected my MYLR yesterday from Staines - build quality looking good, about 50% charge so plenty to get home, love the car so far!

Unfortunately took a first scenic drive today and got a tyre pressure warning for the front left. Pulled over and checked, looked fine, stopped at a garage and pressure was bang on 42. The TPMS then told me the front left was down to 25 psi, took another look and all was fine. Then when I got home I noticed the valve cap was missing from the rear left tyre when it had definitely been there that day before, so got my inflator out and sure enough the pressure was <25psi. The incriminating bolt in the attached photos. So, looks like my TPMS are assigned to the wrong wheels, which isn't great but am sure Tesla can sort easily.

A couple of questions if anyone has any experience? Looks like the screw part in the tyre will be about 5-7mm diameter, has anyone successfully had the Michelin Pilot Sport EV's repaired with a hole that size? And I don't have any jack pads yet - does anyone recommend a tyre place that knows what they're doing with the battery? I'm based in Wokingham, BERKS.

Cheers

Just a passing thought...

In the distant past I'm sure I read on here about problems with cars ready for collection that, when found with damage or other faults, would have parts 'conveniently swapped' from a.n.other 'doner car' to get them instantly ready for collection leaving the 'doner car' to be serviced for a much later collection. The 'fixed' car would be collected with it's owner none the wiser.

I wonder of this has happened to you - a problem was fixed by swapping wheels from another car but in doing do the wheel identity in it's previous role was not reset in the process.

Then again I might be way off base!

 

[MP3Mike]

Thanks, don't see the same options now so think it's changed. I doubt resetting from in the vehicle would have any impact on the Bluetooth assignment for the sensors though(?).

The position is supposed to be detrimend automatically. So if you don't have the option to reset the TPMS just change the wheel size selection and then change it back, as that should reset things.

 

[MB2MB2]

Just had some Tesla TPMS fun myself (2017 MS). Firstly Kwik Fit were brilliant, had jack pads, knew about jack mode and replaced the valve rather than the TPMS sensor. The problems came when I was switching between my winter wheels (19) and summer wheels (21).

When I picked the car up the TPMS was understandly haywire with wheels in the car and on the car all moved around. Then remebered the wheel change option so did this. Do not do this at a traffic light, as, at least on MS the screens go black and you can't drive the car (or even put the hazard lights on).

After the wheel change it took a bit of driving with the TPMS sensors reporting wrong readings and then no readings before a message came up about having spotted the wheel change, and shortly after this they all kicked in correctly - except one was leaking hence the trip back to Kwik Fit.

 

[thewishy]

If you're in the area, Merityre Chertsey did a perfectly reasonable job with a nail through my L3LR. (About £25, they had the appropriate pucks and soforth, but worth checking your branch know what they're doing)

That said, if it's a day old car, might be worth raising a service request. Within 100 miles and 7 days, they're reasonably OK at accepting damage was predelivery

 

[CybeRJEE]

Thanks for the replies. I went to a local place in Wokingham - ALS tyres - and they had jack pads, knew where to put them and repaired the tyre for £18.

Will try the tyre change TPMS calibration soon and feed back

 

[Irata]

I have a M3 from the very first batch of 2021 models back in late 2020 with Bluetooth TPMS. So I know this loop well now.

To reset the Bluetooth TPMS sensors, this reset happens whenever the car is rebooted with the usual holding down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes blank.

So just do the usual reboot and then drive for a few miles.

 

[CybeRJEE]

I have a M3 from the very first batch of 2021 models back in late 2020 with Bluetooth TPMS. So I know this loop well now.

To reset the Bluetooth TPMS sensors, this reset happens whenever the car is rebooted with the usual holding down both steering wheel buttons until the screen goes blank.

So just do the usual reboot and then drive for a few miles.

The reboot doesn't seem to have done anything for me. Will have another play around at the weekend. Thanks for all the replies though.

 

[Sean.]

The reboot doesn't seem to have done anything for me. Will have another play around at the weekend. Thanks for all the replies though.

I don't know about the Bluetooth TPMS senders, but the earlier 433 MHz TPMS variants need to be coded so that the car knows what sensor belongs to what wheel.

 

[Irata]

The reboot doesn't seem to have done anything for me. Will have another play around at the weekend. Thanks for all the replies though.

Sounds like you have an actual fault in the system, so I'd definitely raise a service request.

The way it should work, so for example swapping onto winter wheels and tyres fitted with different sensors, is you reboot and drive for a few miles and it'll work out which wheel is which. Many reports of this working globally and it works for me.

I had assumed it's a clever trick matching data from the ABS to data from the sensor. Detecting subtle changes in rotation information.

 

[thesmokingman]

The reboot doesn't seem to have done anything for me. Will have another play around at the weekend. Thanks for all the replies though.

The later cars lost control over TPMS, can't really do anything about it and you have to go thru service. When you were at the garage that was a good time to swap the wheels front to back.

 

[Irata]

The later cars lost control over TPMS, can't really do anything about it and you have to go thru service. When you were at the garage that was a good time to swap the wheels front to back.

You do still have control with Bluetooth TPMS, that's how people swap their wheels all the time. It happens lots all around the world, it's not a new thing anymore.

I don't get what the fault is, but usually it's just a reboot.

 

[thesmokingman]

You do still have control, that's how people swap their wheels all the time. It happens lots all around the world.

I don't get what the fault is, but usually it's just a reboot.

That's not really control, its just coincidence that you can rotate on square setups. On staggered tesla setups, you can basically do nothing w/o a tech.