Well, you will probably be my tester. So, I don't see charging you for it. At least not yet
Both the front and rear will have to be disconnected because this will emulator replies from both units.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
TPMS CONTINUES TO FAIL... [RANT] And they are gonna send people the mars?
- Thread starter scotty2541
- Start date
Well, you will probably be my tester. So, I don't see charging you for it. At least not yet
Both the front and rear will have to be disconnected because this will emulator replies from both units.
Interesting. The write-up simply says that the sync/break signal can be used to wake the device up. Aside from that, it means the UART still works the same, supporting auto-baud.
But you still need an MCP2021 for voltage level conversion. I don't see the value right now is re-writing the code. As I said, maybe version 2
Well, the harness plugs arrived, but the actual connectors which mount to the board are on back order. From Germany.
Lets see how long this takes.
Lets see how long this takes.
Electric700
Active Member
You may also want to send a message to [email protected] about your trouble with your TPMS. Tesla is continuously improving their products, and the TPMS should be part of that strategy too.
I'll give that a try. But it's been three weeks since the I called and left a message at the service center, at 4:05 pm. And they never called me back (which happens ALL the time - my yearly service is coming, and I expect to have to call them 2-3 times before it gets scheduled).
Also they can't even get my account fixed on the web site.
In short, this is the worst customer service I have ever experienced, let alone for a car that is 3 times the price of my other car whose dealership has been *very* responsive to any contact I make with them.
strider
Active Member
ROTFL. Tesla will not fix the Roadster's TPMS. They already fixed it in new products, it's called use a new vendor (Continental). You can pay to have the Conti system retrofitted into early MS's (we had this done - was ~$600). But the work (software and hardware) was already done for the new models so it was just a matter of a physical splice.
For the Roadster they would have to do all of the work for only a handful of vehicles. They won't do this. They will keep swapping old Baolong parts as long as we keep paying for them. I for one, do not plan to follow this path.
strider
Active Member
I agree. The system that interfaces to the VDM, or wherever, probably takes some software update as well. Doubtfull they would do it even if I paid.
Pay once, to have it retrofitted with a quality product, and not have to worry about it... My choice.
Have parts that die (or just loose their memory) and Tesla keeps selling you new parts every 1 1/2 years... Their choice.
(Over a month since i called the service center and told them to call me back. Nothing yet. If I was stuck on the side of the road, I would have starved by now.)
Thanks. Ordered some little weather proof boxes now. When they arrive, I can do some test fitting to be sure my circuit board designed fits properly (cardboard cutouts). Then I can order some boards.
I recommend a milling machine to cut the oval hole. If you don't have one I'd be happy to cut a few boxes for you if you mark where the hole goes. May not be worth your time to package them up and send to me but I want to do what I can to help with this project.
I would have replied sooner, but for some reason, I am no longer getting email notifications on this thread...
Milling would be great, if you can do what needs to be done. I actually need a square hole. And if it could have a groove, that would help, as the images here will show.
I cut the first box by hand with a dremel tool. I plan to just glue/cement it in place for the first try. It needs to be flush with the exterior, as that is how I aligned the circuit board.
Here is my cut, and a closeup of the plug. You can see the groove
Here's another angle: 
Here is the plug inverted to see the pins underneath. Also, there is a lip that drops down about 1mm.
I have also uploaded the PDF engineering drawing from the manufacturers site, if that helps.
If you think you can pull it off, send me a message, and I'll pack up two boxes and plugs to ship. I have a total of three sets.
-Scott
I have ordered the circuit boards, they are through a company called OSH Park. This company collects people designs, lay them onto one big board, and order it when they have enough. It's much cheaper (~$20 instead of ~$60 for three board), but it takes much longer before a full order is assembled and placed. It's effectively "crowd PCB boards"
I will have components to make three units.
My total investment so far is:
Boxes - free samples
Plugs - free samples (but I can't find anyone who carries stock, that worries me about timely supplier)
Boards - ~$20
Circuit components (MCU, LIN Drive, diodes, caps) ~$ 30
So, the net so far is something like $10 per unit (not including the engineering time). Hardly worth it.
I don't see a need to charge for these first few, especially since they will be prototypes, and the volunteers will actually be testers.
I will have components to make three units.
My total investment so far is:
Boxes - free samples
Plugs - free samples (but I can't find anyone who carries stock, that worries me about timely supplier)
Boards - ~$20
Circuit components (MCU, LIN Drive, diodes, caps) ~$ 30
So, the net so far is something like $10 per unit (not including the engineering time). Hardly worth it.
I don't see a need to charge for these first few, especially since they will be prototypes, and the volunteers will actually be testers.
It is ready.
Here is a picture of the opened unit. I need to screw down the board, probably layer the thing with epoxy to secure the parts and close the lid.
It has 4 phony addresses in it, and will reply with good tire pressure and temperature data.
What worries me is that when mounted upside down, the surface mounted parts may vibrate off after a time. Which is why I would epoxy the board.
In order to use it, both antennas need to be disabled, because this one unit will reply for both sets of addresses.
Any takers?
Here is a picture of the opened unit. I need to screw down the board, probably layer the thing with epoxy to secure the parts and close the lid.
It has 4 phony addresses in it, and will reply with good tire pressure and temperature data.
What worries me is that when mounted upside down, the surface mounted parts may vibrate off after a time. Which is why I would epoxy the board.
In order to use it, both antennas need to be disabled, because this one unit will reply for both sets of addresses.
Any takers?
strider
Active Member
Wahoo! I will be happy to give it a go. Will there be any issues with the addresses being sent from this unit not matching the main computer?
When you say both antennas need to be disabled, you just mean unplugged right?
Tesla Ranger is coming to our house on Wednesday to replace the screen in our Model S and deliver a new cable for the Roadster's soft top. I'll ask him to point me to where the antennas are located.
I'll PM you my address if that's ok.
When you say both antennas need to be disabled, you just mean unplugged right?
Tesla Ranger is coming to our house on Wednesday to replace the screen in our Model S and deliver a new cable for the Roadster's soft top. I'll ask him to point me to where the antennas are located.
I'll PM you my address if that's ok.
Yes, PM me. I'll close it up. And put it into a padded envelope.
I do not expect any issues with the addresses. I don't think the main unit even knows what the tire addresses are. It polls the antennas every 30 second or so asking them. And they need to match. That was my most recent failure was the front antenna "forgot" the tire addresses. After I reprogrammed it, it was fine again. Telsa probably would have changed me for a new unit, and the labor to put it in.
Yes, disabling the antennas just means unplugging them.
I have not tried in on my car because I don't know where the front unit is. I was able to reprogram the front by attaching my sniffer unit to the rear antenna connector. If I could easily get to the front antenna, I'd experiment on my car.
To get to the rear, there are 9 screws under the rear bumper, they are 4mm HEX bolts. Also, there are some bolts on the side near the rear tires. What you need to do is drop the bottom cover to see the antenna unit. Then you can unplug the unit. I don't even jack the car up to do so, there is generally enough room to reach under there.
The new device uses the same plug, and should plug straight in.
See this post from me:
That TPMS issue, summarized
I have parts and boards for a total of three units. I was hoping to hear from "hcsharp" about milling the boxes to fit the plugs, but he hasn't responded to the thread. My manual cutting job is pretty sloppy.
I do not expect any issues with the addresses. I don't think the main unit even knows what the tire addresses are. It polls the antennas every 30 second or so asking them. And they need to match. That was my most recent failure was the front antenna "forgot" the tire addresses. After I reprogrammed it, it was fine again. Telsa probably would have changed me for a new unit, and the labor to put it in.
Yes, disabling the antennas just means unplugging them.
I have not tried in on my car because I don't know where the front unit is. I was able to reprogram the front by attaching my sniffer unit to the rear antenna connector. If I could easily get to the front antenna, I'd experiment on my car.
To get to the rear, there are 9 screws under the rear bumper, they are 4mm HEX bolts. Also, there are some bolts on the side near the rear tires. What you need to do is drop the bottom cover to see the antenna unit. Then you can unplug the unit. I don't even jack the car up to do so, there is generally enough room to reach under there.
The new device uses the same plug, and should plug straight in.
See this post from me:
That TPMS issue, summarized
I have parts and boards for a total of three units. I was hoping to hear from "hcsharp" about milling the boxes to fit the plugs, but he hasn't responded to the thread. My manual cutting job is pretty sloppy.
dhrivnak
Active Member
Advanced Auto had TPMS sensors for the 1.5 Roadster at $99. That is less than half the Tesla price.
I've also heard that Discount Tire can supply them as well.
In my 2.5, what's failing is not the sensors in the tires. It's the actual antennas.
And 1.5 TPMS components are not the same as 2.x. They used crappy parts in 2.x
strider
Active Member
My problem isn't the sensors. Tesla has tested the sensors and replaced both antennas and still no dice. Their next reco is to replace the TPMS ECU which is $500 plus labor to tear the whole dash out. I just want the warnings to go away. I am quite handy with a tire pressure gauge, thank you.
Similar threads
