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Trailer hitch on 2021 refresh?

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I will be mounting my 1UpUSA rack on Thursday, I will report back to see if the type/location of the rack makes a difference on the newer S.
So I took the Model S to Mammoth with the bikes this weekend and can say the Palladium does not have any major issues with the 1UpUsa rack. No alerts when coming to a stop, no issues with Autopilot and it only chimes when you are in reverse to let you know there is something behind you (obviously).

You do get some occasional indications on the dash (see photo below), but the car does not really seam to car the rack/bikes are on there.

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So I took the Model S to Mammoth with the bikes this weekend and can say the Palladium does not have any major issues with the 1UpUsa rack. No alerts when coming to a stop, no issues with Autopilot and it only chimes when you are in reverse to let you know there is something behind you (obviously).

You do get some occasional indications on the dash (see photo below), but the car does not really seam to car the rack/bikes are on there.
Do you happen to have EAP or FSD by chance? My warnings are for 'park assist'. I wonder if those alerts only are for cars with that feature. Would seem odd if legacy cars display an alert while newer cars do not.
 
This is also an option. Was hoping to use to trailer a 'gas' race car but I'm worried about the plaid not having an 'official' tow rating if there were an accident.

 
This is also an option. Was hoping to use to trailer a 'gas' race car but I'm worried about the plaid not having an 'official' tow rating if there were an accident.

Looks like it could work, but it's 4 times the price of an MX hitch.
 
Does anyone know the wiring diagram and voltages needed by a trailer through the 7-pin connector? Trying to evaluate what I might need to make this work as I'm shopping for trailers now.
You should only need a 4 pin connector, but below are the pinouts for all standard US trailer connectors.

Your issue will be where are you going to tap into the car to get these? So far, no-one has been able to find a good solution.

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You should only need a 4 pin connector, but below are the pinouts for all standard US trailer connectors.

Your issue will be where are you going to tap into the car to get these? So far, no-one has been able to find a good solution.

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The tow bar from Tesla has a 7-pin connector, which is required for trailers that have electrical brakes (usually tandem axles, but really anything above 3000 GVWR).

Not sure where in the car I will tap into yet, but know what I need will be a good start.

What voltages are all the wires above carrying? And how much current (in Amps) would be needed?
 
The tow bar from Tesla has a 7-pin connector, which is required for trailers that have electrical brakes (usually tandem axles, but really anything above 3000 GVWR).

Not sure where in the car I will tap into yet, but know what I need will be a good start.

What voltages are all the wires above carrying? And how much current (in Amps) would be needed?
Read posts #117 and #135 from this thread.
 
Oh, and make sure you have deep sockets in both 10mm and 15mm to remove the bumper and original crash bar (and to install the tow bar).

Sharing some pics of my install:

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Thanks for the info and the great pics. I have what I hope is a silly question. Was there a 'bumper beam' that you had to remove to install the tow hitch that had to be re-installed on top of the tow hitch?
 
There is a user on a FB forum who successfully wired the trailer lights using the Tekonsha module.

Below are the wiring connections he used and the model of the module.

I ordered one and will be validating that this solution works soon.

(I am not sure if he wants to be linked to/called out, so I will not be cross-linking his post. If he is on this forum and wants to take credit, please jump in!)


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There is a user on a FB forum who successfully wired the trailer lights using the Tekonsha module.

Below are the wiring connections he used and the model of the module.

I ordered one and will be validating that this solution works soon.

(I am not sure if he wants to be linked to/called out, so I will not be cross-linking his post. If he is on this forum and wants to take credit, please jump in!)


View attachment 865380View attachment 865381
Thanks for this. Do you know how he programmed / configured the unit? I spent hours with this thing and hours on the phone with Tekonsha's technical support and could not get it to work.
 
As for the trailer lights, I find it hard to believe that there is no OBDII port wireless light modules anywhere on the market. It seams easy enough to make a module that plugs into the OBDII port and sends the appropriate signals to a battery powered module that could plug into a standard trailer light socket.

I have looked, but it does not seem to exist..would solve our trailer light issue.
That's because Tesla has not "enabled" anything on the ODBII port, because EVs are currently not required to plug in during annual inspection (this will change when the government transitions us from gasoline tax to pay-per-miles-driven tax: part of the 2,000 page $1 trillion highway infrastructure bill approved by congress in summer 2021 Infrastructure Bill Proposes Voluntary Pilot Program for Per-Mile Vehicle Fee, Not 'Driving Tax' - FactCheck.org)

When that happens, Tesla will update our software and enable odometer mileage over ODBII, so the vehicle inspection computers can calculate our taxes. I don't think Tesla's ODBII will ever support more than odometer (such as brake light signaling).
When connecting the Torque app to a Tesla with a bluetooth dongle, Torque displays "This vehicle's ECU reports no supported PIDs!"
(Performance Information Data: such as battery voltage, motor temperature, steering wheel position, a/c toggle, etc. that all other vehicles support)
 
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Well I have some good news. The take-off hitch I bought from a refresh 2022 Model X DID fit my 2022 Long Range S. I only had to bend a bracket back on the hitch that was designed to hold part of the hitch wiring harness on the X and of course remove the rear bumper reinforcing bar which I didn’t refit. Apart from that it fitted perfectly and it’s easy to fit the removable hitch when the undertray hatch is removed. I didn’t fit hitch wiring this time and couldn’t see any wiring harness for a factory accessory towing harness so I may have to fabricate something if I decide to down that route. My sense is that any factory hitch from a Tesla Model X would fit the new refresh S.
I purchased a hitch from Tesla with the same bracket - I believe it is revision H of the hitch. Any tips on how to bend back the bracket? In the image it appears it’s just the top left of the bracket that needs to be bent towards the front of the car? Thanks!
 
I purchased a hitch from Tesla with the same bracket - I believe it is revision H of the hitch. Any tips on how to bend back the bracket? In the image it appears it’s just the top left of the bracket that needs to be bent towards the front of the car? Thanks!
I just bent the bracket using a pair of mole grips to allow the hitch to fit. I could have done a better job by putting the bracket in a vise and bending the top of the bracket evenly but I didn’t have a vise to hand. The top of the bracket needs to be bent towards the rear of the car. That will be obvious when you try to fit it.