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Trailer lights?

Discussion in 'Model 3: Interior & Exterior' started by jamnmon66, Apr 29, 2018.

  1. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    Still waiting on my VIN so I can't investigate this myself yet.

    I know Tesla isn't supporting trailers yet but there is a hitch available and it appears to be a good option. I have a small utility trailer that I use for trips to Lowes, etc. No long distance highway hauling. I think I'd be willing to take the risk with my limited use. But I would need trailer lights to be legal & safe. Any signs that this can be added? I read in another thread that the lights are low power LEDs so an old school after market wiring kit probably won't work.
     
  2. brkaus

    brkaus Well-Known Member

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    Well, there are new-school LED trailer lights, so the current draw would probably be manageable. But does the CANbus go directly into them? Or is there a place the wiring can be tapped?
     
  3. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    Good point. My old lights are trashed anyway Wouldn't mind replacing them. Maybe a test with a multi-meter on the wires going into the lights?
     
  4. brkaus

    brkaus Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious as well. I haven't taken apart my S yet, so I don't even know what the wiring looks like around the lights.

    Very interested in the 3 wiring for the same reason as you are... Hopefully someone has an answer?
     
  5. UrsS

    UrsS Member

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    My guess is that the trailer light kit Torklift sells for the Model S might work on the 3. BUT Torklift does not sell it for the Model 3 yet.
     
  6. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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  7. xpitxbullx

    xpitxbullx Member

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    I just finished wiring mine to a 4 prong plug. Works perfectly. My trailer has regular bulbs.

    You can tap into the wires right before the tail light plugs.

    The tail light plugs have 5 slots. Only 4 are used. The last wire (slot 5) is white and sits away from the others. White is reverse and is not needed. The first wire (slot 1) is black/ground and slightly larger than the others. Probably 18 gauge. The rest are 22 gauge. The slot 2 wire is running lights and you only need to hook up the one side to have both trailer running lights to operate. The slot 3 wire is the brake/turn indicator.

    I tapped three of the wires on one side and one wire (brake/turn) on the other side. I used 22g-16g red quick splice connectors.

    Hope that helps.
     
  8. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

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    I will try the one from Torquelift and will report back if it works. It just shipped yesterday.
     
  9. ai4px

    ai4px Wes

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    I'm still kinda new here.... I saw an article over at teslarati site where a guy had installed a reciever hitch on a MS. The hitch rusted and ended up rubbing through the paint allowing the steel hitch to touch the aluminum car frame where it was bolted. Electrolysis ate out the aluminum on the car pretty badly. Might want to forego a receiver hitch or use rubber / insulating pads to prevent metal on metal contact. Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive

    [​IMG]

    Here's the hitch companies response:
    [​IMG]

    Upon our recent review of this situation, this type corrosion is often found where the factory bumper is attached to the aluminum underbody using factory steel bolts. When the factory steel bolts are in contact with the aluminum underbody, you have two different types of metals coming into direct contact with each other in the absence of a thick powder coat finish. The bolts do have a coating on them, but it appears to be a thin layer that wears down somewhat quickly. This begins to be problematic when you add the catalyst for corrosion. The catalyst occurs when driving through caustic environments such as the area of the United States commonly referred to as the rust belt, as well as coastal and mountain regions. The common denominator is road salt and water. It is important to note that none of the Tesla Model S variants have their bumper covers sealed and although the space is enclosed, what we are seeing on unaltered cars in our research is significant debris and signs of water intrusion in this area. Obviously, water is a key catalyst. This leads to corrosion.

    Based on this research as well as your experience with the solution you used, we have decided to adopt it and have an action plan moving forward. This week we will have a simple kit and installation instructions for insulation pads - similar to what you have installed on your Tesla Model S. We are going to include this kit in all Tesla kits moving forward, as well as contact customers who have recently purchased. See figure 18 below:
     
  10. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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    Thank you for posting this! Which wiring kit did you use or did you just DIY it?
     
  11. jamnmon66

    jamnmon66 Member

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  12. NeverFollow

    NeverFollow Active Member

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    I wish Tesla integrated one of those automatic European trailer hitch.
    May be those markets will have this option.
     

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