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Trouble with Homelink

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Trouble with Homelink...

I did a search and came up with a lot of comments, some of which didn’t apply to my specific problem, and some of which I didn’t really understand. And, a couple of suggestions I tried to no avail. So, I am asking if anyone knows a quick fix...

I had Homelink installed by a Tesla tech. It worked well for a couple of weeks. Now, it only works when approaching the garage but not when leaving. No chime .leaving ... and I adjusted the distance on the settings which didn’t help. Can’t figure out what went wrong. Nothing else was changed from the original install.
I’m new here, so forgive me if I didn’t do this right.

can somebody help ?
Thanks.
 
Three things to try. each are separate.
1) unscrew your GDO light bulb while you test.
2) new batteries in the GDO remote you use to program the car.
3) delete the new homelink profile and create a new one.


Think back to your own actions over the last couple of weeks. Did you even once, cancel the door closing as you started out of the garage?
Does the screen on the 3 show the homelink count down to 0 before the chime and close?
Also, keep you hands off the screen until the car has cleared the garage and about the place where the chime has occurred in the past.
 
Three things to try. each are separate.
1) unscrew your GDO light bulb while you test.
2) new batteries in the GDO remote you use to program the car.
3) delete the new homelink profile and create a new one.


Think back to your own actions over the last couple of weeks. Did you even once, cancel the door closing as you started out of the garage?
Does the screen on the 3 show the homelink count down to 0 before the chime and close?
Also, keep you hands off the screen until the car has cleared the garage and about the place where the chime has occurred in the past.
Yes, I canceled the door closing from outside once when I was waiting for someone.
You can’t do that ?
 
FWIW mine works 99.9% of the time approaching my garage door (ie front facing the door).

And very near 0% of the time leaving the garage (I back in- so leaving the rear of the car faces the door)

There's about a 0.5 inch window just as my rear tires clear the safety light beam that if I manually hit it, it closes. Otherwise it never does, so if I miss that tiny window I end up having to turn around to point front of car toward garage, hit button to close, then turn back around to leave.


I turned off auto-close due to its 100% failure rate and just try and get lucky with the manual close as I leave, which I manage to catch it just right I dunno maybe 1 time in 5?
 
My Homelink was programmed by the Ranger to automatically open on approach and to require activation by the touchscreen when leaving. That so you can verify closure before leaving the house. Made sense to me so I kept it that way. But maybe because it doesn't inherently work as reliably on departure? Opening automatically on approach has worked for me 100% of the time. I have never checked to see if the screen will tell you if the door is closed when away from home. Meaning if you can verify closure remotely. Can you? If so I will change my settings. Perhaps the OP's settings were inadvertently changed to require manual activation on departure. Point is the unit can be set to open automatically or manually on approach or departure, either or both. I myself have never changed the settings so have no knowledge of how to do so.
 
Yes, I canceled the door closing from outside once when I was waiting for someone.
You can’t do that ?

I'm not surprised you admitted it. I am surprised you remembered you did it. Remembering you did it is impressive considering all the things that are on our minds.

It interferes with what status the car thinks its at.
I recommend deleting and re-creating a new profile. I know, I know, should not have to do that, and it should not disrupt the cycle, - but it does.

Do yourself a favor. Check your GDO model and find one of the very small openers on Amazon. Hang it on a lanyard on your steering column. Use it only to reverse or stop door direction, so you don't press the Homelink again.
 
Yes, I canceled the door closing from outside once when I was waiting for someone.
You can’t do that ?

You can do that. But you can read on this thread to discover the consequences of doing it. I even set my S up a year+ ago to fail the close over and over. After I triggered the auto close even once, I could not get it to fix itself next time.

Of course it not supposed to be this way. I figure Tesla will discover it some day and fix it once and for all. But because I won't risk it, I will probably never know they fix it.

Ever notice how that Homelink box pops up and shows the count down? About two years ago when that box was showing, if you pressed anywhere on the screen - I mean ANYwhere, it would cancel that door closure. In just the right shade of light, you could sometimes see the button highlight as if you touched it - when you touched any place on the screen. A few months later that "feature" went away with an update.
 
Thanks all for trying to help...
I think I figured it out !

In my case, I found that after I got in my Model 3 and adjusted the seat from Easy Entry to my personal adjustment setting, I inadvertently hit the garage icon and turned Homelink offf. It’s easy to do because the screen moves so that the Homelink button is right above the seat adjust icon.

I didn’t notice that the green Homelink indicator was off. I spent a lot of time going in and out of the garage...
Enough so my neighbors must think there is something strange going on with me and the Tesla.

You all made me think and retrace my steps so, at least I didn’t have to summon the ranger to fix it.

Thanks again...This is a great club/forum.
 
Welcome. But it was not a Ranger issue. I would bet the first thing the Ranger would have tried was deleting and creating a new profile.

Hitting the wrong button (Homelink off vs Profile) is one of those reasons, I don't touch the center screen until I clear the garage and the door chimes its closing.
 
Hello,
Just signed up here to ask a question related to the Homelink issues I'm having with auto close.

I have it set for auto close and open (yes, I've read some don't like that and don't use it). I'm trying it out.

I use the easy entry feature for entry and exit. When I enter the car, Homelink icon is green with the correct Homelink transmitter (Home) showing on the screen.

Here's the issue.

When I press the brake to start and select reverse the selected Homelink option (Home)a goes away but the icon stays green and the garage door will not auto close when I leave.

Is there anyway to not have the Homelink (Home) line not show up until pressing the brake and selecting reverse instead of coming up as soon as the car door is opened.

I've already deleted the Home profile and tried to redo the profile, but that didn't help.

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance...
 
Can I ask why you say to unscrew the light? I ask because the problem I have is that my garage opener (all of them) require me to press the button twice to open the door. The first click only turns on the light. I’m trying to find something on the garage door that can change that but no luck. The double click problem affects the homelink so it doesn’t work the way I’d like.

Three things to try. each are separate.
1) unscrew your GDO light bulb while you test.
2) new batteries in the GDO remote you use to program the car.
3) delete the new homelink profile and create a new one.


Think back to your own actions over the last couple of weeks. Did you even once, cancel the door closing as you started out of the garage?
Does the screen on the 3 show the homelink count down to 0 before the chime and close?
Also, keep you hands off the screen until the car has cleared the garage and about the place where the chime has occurred in the past.
 
Mine works fine leaving and returning, I had problems programming at first until I removed the waffler style LED light that was in the Marentec garage door opener.
 

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There's about a 0.5 inch window just as my rear tires clear the safety light beam that if I manually hit it, it closes. Otherwise it never does, so if I miss that tiny window I end up having to turn around to point front of car toward garage, hit button to close, then turn back around to leave.
this is basically my scenario. since i back in, leaving is an issue. my previous car had homelink on the mirror, but i always pulled in nose-first, so i have no reference point if my positioning is the main culprit.

there is such a delay in the communication, that if i "push the button" to close the garage on my way out, while my rear tire is still in the garage, i can usually get past the beam before the signal registers and then i'm fine. if i hit the button when i'm already pulled out, i basically have to reverse it in to the garage, let the garage "fail" (light flashes) and then do my little trick again.

or i just sent my 10 y/o out to do it.
 
@Knightshade, are you saying your .5 inch window is a height issue or pulling in/out issue? You should be able to adjust the height at the sides of the garage door. And if you don't want to move your existing door sensors, add another set at the height for the car.

I doubt this is your problem, but we people complain that their door starts to close while the car is still inside, because the sensors saw the tire as it rolled past, but the car was still inside. So they added another set of sensors or moved their existing ones up a bit so the sensors saw the body.

This has nothing to do with your issues, but I thought you might like to hear about it - just in case it can be useful.
I am lazy. I put a pair of these Dual Laser Parking Guide at the front and back of my garage. I could have mounted them on the ceiling, but instead I mounted them on the side walls. Mount them about where your car's upper grille is - about 12-16 inches from the floor. And on each opposite wall right across I added a mirror to reflect the beam back toward the wall where the guide was mounted. But the beam is angled to show up about 5 feet above the floor, on the wall above the guide.

When I back in, I can ease back inside until I see the broken beam is unbroken and shows up on the wall at the 5 foot mark where it should be. Now, I know I am in just far enough that the door will close, but I have maximum room behind.

And When I pull forward, the inside guide is showing on the wall at the 5 foot mark. When the front of the car breaks the beam, and I don't see its reflection on the wall, I know I am in far enough that the door will close, but I am not too far forward. I use duals because I have both side by side, so I know one or the other is working every time.
 
@Knightshade, are you saying your .5 inch window is a height issue or pulling in/out issue?

You misunderstand me.... I mean once my rear tire clears the sensor rolling out I can move about another half inch before I'm outside the window where the garage door button on the car will close the door behind me when I'm facing away from it.

Basically if I hit it RIGHT as my rear tires clear the beam it'll close on its own... otherwise I have to pull forward, turn the car around, close the garage with front pointing toward door, then turn back around again and leave.


Realistically 0.5 inches is probably hyperbole, but likely not by much at all.

Nothing to do with height.


I doubt this is your problem, but we people complain that their door starts to close while the car is still inside

I wish it did. Because I can pull out a lot faster than the door can close. It'd save me having to turn around each time.

But instead if I hit it before I'm clear of the sensors it just aborts closing. If I wait hardly any time at all AFTER clearing- too late it just doesn't register the signal from the front of the car facing away from it.

Hence the really tiny window in which I'm clear of the sensors AND the door with actually respond to the signal from the car.

As I say- on the way in, facing the garage, it works great even from some distance using the geolocated automatic opening system.

Closing- facing away- not so much.
 
I recommend you strip a little insulation off your GDO's antenna. Its probably hanging down below your GDO. - Well it should be. Once you strip off a little add about 6 inches by using another piece of wire, after stripping its end. Sounds like your car is just exceeding the range of the GDO to receive your signal. Cost nothing to try.