A confirmation here that these trunk lifts from Advance Auto work perfectly on the 2.5.
Just put "D4247" into the search bar on the Advance Auto website and it will show you which stores in your area (assuming there are stores in your region or country) have them in stock. Otherwise they will ship. The most difficult part is getting the old ones to pop off the ball joints -- the new ones just "click" on.
Now my trunk lid pops up fully rather than anemically going up 3/4 the way! Thank you "JordanThompson" for posting above!
I found that I didn't need to remove the spring clip as much as just pry it back a bit. Same for installing the new ones.
I just did this (the Advance Auto Part #D4247 is correct, btw). I found that after replacing just one of the struts, and keeping one of the old ones, the trunk opens just fine all the way now. So, I haven't yet replaced the other strut and may not for a while.
I got a coupon for Advance Auto - "PS20" for 20% off. Probably will still work since it was given to me when their site was down as an incentive to come back later.
I ordered the Advance Auto Part #D4247 as well, and can confirm now that they fit fine on a 2008 Roadster 1.5 even though the web site lists the part for 2010 and warns that the part "might not fit your car". Thanks to @MLAUTO about removing the spring clip; this was easily done with a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers on the upper end, but a bit trickier for the lower end down inside the body work, especially on the passenger side where the coolant tank occupies part of the access space. I managed to get that one started by tapping on a long-shank 1/8" straight screwdriver, then pried it loose with a large screwdriver. The only problem was that the clip got away from me before I could catch it. I hope there is nothing down below that it might interfere with.
p.s. As I was looking around on their web site a coupon for 25% off popped up.
I installed them on my 1.5 and it works perfectly. Installation was pretty quick, but did have a bit of trouble pulling out the lower clip on the original set. I started out using a flathead driver, but what worked for me was wedging a straight dental pick between the clip and the joint housing.
At first I was a bit concerned with the higher force value, but it seems to be just fine, and the Strong Arm documentation states the strut replaces units with a force from 40-49lbs.
Overall great find!
I was making adjustments to my trunk lock actuator and figured I'd address the weak OE Stabilus struts while I was at it. I ended up going with a pair of Suspa C16-08260 struts that I found on Amazon for a whopping $19.80 USD
Perfect fitment and rated at 60 lbs each so they definitely have no problem opening the trunk all the way Made in the USA as well.
The job took only 10 min and all you need is a flathead screwdriver to pry the retainer springs up a tad to clear the mounting nipple for removal. The process did, however, require the sacrifice of one spring clip to the belly pan gods. To install the replacements, you simply push them on.
Before and after video demonstrating strut lifting difference.
Just figured I'd add my 2 cents as I went to the local Advanced Auto Parts / CarQuest and picked up two new struts. Per everyone's instructions, using a flat head screwdriver works and yes, the right one is a bit trickier as you have to maneuver around the coolant reservoir. But in the end, $50 for parts and about 15 minutes worth of effort and my trunk stays open again.
Getting the spring clip off was tough for me since I have paddles for hands and could not get a good grip. My solution was using a long spear shish kabob stick that came with our BBQ grill to thread through the spring clip and pry off.